aight so i guess its time to rebuild the motor so..... i need to start getting some ideas its a 350 has a xtreme energy comp cam 268h-10 and some 72 cc heads.....should i just get a kit for all my bearings,pistons,rods,ect.....

im thinking so keith black with th .100 domes so it would be about 10 to 1 comp...

maybe some roller rockers.....

2400 stall and a shift kit while im at it.....

does this sound like a good setup.....any advise on what to do would be greatly apriciated graemlins/thumbsup.gif

There are a lot of kits out there and they do offer a good value. I would recomend working with your machinist to make sure you get the right combo as usually the kits are put together as per your requirements and can't be returned. Once the block is cut and the bearing surfaces are done you'll know what oversize you need. It's probably safe to say 030 over for the bore and 010 for the bearings etc...

Couple of items to consider... Crank scraper is cheap HP gains. Roller tips are better than stock but roller rockers are better than tips. Comp Cams can really help you with what's better for the cam/head combo. Mild porting and gasket matching will help a bit as will putting on an oil galley sheild.

Hope it answers your question...

i was looking threw jegs and they have a eagle rotating assemblie has light weigh SIR rods, new cst crank,30 over Keith Black pistons and clevite rod and main bearings and plasma moly cast iron rings says 10.2 to 1 comp with 64CC heads and i have 72cc heads so about 9.2 or so i figure....... but im gonna have a little head work done and anyways this kit costs 699 sound like a good deal or what?

72cc heads will give you about 9.34 SCR. Not a bad deal. Be sure to check the crank for size and roundness. A lot of these import cast cranks are not that precise and Eagle doesn't have that great of a reputation regarding their cranks. I'm using their SIR 6" rods. I had them checked and they were right on the money. I went with a Scat cast crank. I had it checked, too, and it was at the middle of the tolerance. For a performance engine most usually want them on the high end (.0025" clearance). It checked out round.

I want to really build this on a budget but have a good kick every mustang on the block attitude....with the cam i have in it and i have a eddy intake it would just light the friggin tires up and just sit there and spin and spin and spin id like to add a little punch to it but those pistons and rods sound good.....then i would need bearings and rings....my crank my still be good but i dunno its def gonna have to be turned......ill talk it over with the engine guy and the mechanic.....

That's sounds like a fair deal for that kit. I would recomend that you get the internal parts balanced. This is cheaper to have the supplier do it than your machinist and everything would be ready to pop into the block. Also, get an complete ARP Engine bolt kit. It pays to have good bolts in a hard working engine

One other thought... If your budget allows, build the bottom end tougher with forged pistons etc... At some point you'd probably change heads,cam, NOS ?, etc ... and if the short block is built strong, you are less likely to have to make any changes down below.

just trying to figgure out how much it is gonna cost me to do this rebuild........700 for the rotating assemblie, and then a ARP bolt kit is what.....50, or 100 and then a little head surfacing????and maybe boring it out 30 over.... and balacing it......

how much to do all this?roughly?

I wouldn't bother with the ARP bolt kit. Use what you have. What is wrong with your current crank? Have it turned if that's all it needs. You can get SIR rods for $219 or recon GM rods for $109 from Dirt Track Thunder (http://www.dirttrackthunder.com). They have Scat cast cranks for $189, but if your crank is good, why change it. Speed-Pro hypers are less money than the KB. Take a look at DTT's price. I got Clevite 77 rod and main bearings from Chet Herbert Cams for $32 (although this might have been a pricing error).

So, using your current crank, you could get by for much less money. Figure $185 for SP pistons, $109 for recon rods, $90 for moly rings, and $40 for bearings thats $424. I wouldn't expect turning a crank to be over $100 and probably a lot less.

I don't know what the machining prices are in your area.

im thinking of getting there P201 rotating assembly it has KB 10.2 to 1 comp wit 64CC heads skat crank and rods it has clevite bearings and fedrual mogul rings for 839.....and its all ballanced..... then a set of harland sharp roller rockers and a 2400 holeshot convertor.... all in all its gonna cost me 1250 bucks but i think its worth it right?