It appears there is one in my area that caters to the turbo import crowd.
But after learning that how hard they tie down my car, etc etc, and how important the dyno operator is in the case of a regular chassis dyno, I was wondering if anyone had use oned of these.
The remove your wheels and bolt directly to the hubs of the car.
I am not sure if they can simulate resistance or whatever like a real waterbrake dyno, but..
This would nail down my converter slip, and its $10 cheaper for 3 runs than the chassis dyno 20 min from my house, but its quite a bit farther away.

I am not touching my velle at all until next wed, hoping for a track day. 18psi and back in out drive out of the water box, taking my sweet time. I *may* reinstall my pass side airbag because the car is insane with rear end action when giving it too much go-go juice.. For my safety and others.. I paid, I get bad 60's when I am nervous, so let me do my thing..
Anyone else here have a thing about having a severe preference for the right lane only? Thats me..
I also want to carry the engine right to 6800 to see if my shift at 6200 to .78 theory makes sense.
If I make more pwr at 5000-5200, then I'm golden. Maybe my 2 or 3 mph are right there, or maybe not. Who knows.

Matt

I have been on one a couple of times, and fairly recently took my buddies car on one. They eliminate tire slippage issues over the Dynojet. They also can hold the car (up to their torque rating)at a certain rpm under full throttle which is great for getting some loaded numbers. They do have a lower power limit than the 248 Dynojet as my yellow car kept shutting it off (too much torque). This assumes that they're using the $65K model; they also make one that's nearly $100K that handles more power/torque but I've never seen a shop use that one.

Overall, a neat deal that eliminates having a pit or lift for the rollers, takes up very little room in the shop, and can load a car better than a Dynojet.

Jody