Is it worth the effort to just box in the frame rails? 1965 small block 400hp. boxed control arms lowered 1" sway bars rubber bushings throughout. Will it make much difference or should I just leave the frame rails open? Thanks. -MATT

Matt,
... If you already have the frame seperated from the body and you have a welder... I say yes.... it should be a fairly simple job that shouldn't take too long... Add a few gussets in a few key places... :thumbsup:

I'm going the extra mile and boxing the frame and adding an inner skeleton along with an extra welded in cross member where the frame kicks up before the rear wheels.. It will have a built in drive shaft loop and a place to pass the exhaust through .... Should be stiff as possible without adding a actual roll cage... :D

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/VelleFrame4.jpg

You have a post car with a SB. If it was a convertible or if it was a BB I would say yes. IMO leave it alone! Don't make more work for yourself. ;)

If street-driving only, I'd leave it... if you're going to open-track the car, go ahead and do it. :)

If you have the fab skills, there is no negative effect to doing it. Just time and materials.

Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm going to box it. Someday it will get a big block and probably some track time! -MATT

MATT I was in the same boat your are with my 67 I had it off the frame it was no big deal boxing it,that being said remember the crossmember will have to be shortened and a bracket welded on if you fill the whole siderail.your brake and fuel line will have to be changed to ,you can use a convertable line for this it worked for me good luck Mike

MATT I was in the same boat your are with my 67 I had it off the frame it was no big deal boxing it,that being said remember the crossmember will have to be shortened and a bracket welded on if you fill the whole siderail.your brake and fuel line will have to be changed to ,you can use a convertable line for this it worked for me good luck Mike

Thanks for the heads up! Do you have any pics? -MATT

Don't post here much but,if you decide to box the frame rails and relocate your battery to the trunk;make sure you drill a hole in the back of Engine crossmember,where it attaches to the frame.Otherwise there will be no where to run the cable other than on the bottom,and it looks hidious there.I guess you could run it down the inside if you think about it before you start welding.FWIW,I would definately consider boxing the lower control arm mounting perch,"on the frame".I've seen hard launching Chevelles crack the factory welds,and on one car rip them loose....You are using the braces too,aren't you?

BTW,before I boxed my frame I took some measurements and, before,I could raise the drivers wheel 21" off the ground before the passengers side started to raise.After all boxing was done,14" is about the max.That's 7" of chassis flex,GONE.My car has no cage at this point,and although I have over 450Hp. on motor,I refuse to install one.A cage is a good idea if you plan on racing,but is not needed at this power level.However, it does make a car safer.

At 600HP.,now that's a different story.
Eric.

I boxed mine in and made a custom trans crossmember much like the one drawn above. I tihnk it looks much nicer and is worth the small amoutn of time in the long run.

any more pics of boxed frames or completed inner skeletons?

thanks,
kevin

I didn't box my frame before it was painted and I regret it.I might fab up some steel with bends that match the upper and lower frame rail angle,pre-paint them and rivet them on.That might help a bit ?