I'm working on my '97 S-10. Replaced upper and lower control arm bushings with stock rubber Moog ones. Now, I know you're supposed to tighten upper cross shaft nuts and lower control arm bolts with the vehicle sitting on the ground at normal ride height. Problem is, there's no way I'll have access to the upper rear cross shaft nuts. Would it be ok to just use a jack to jack the front suspension up as far as it will go and tighten the upper control arm cross shaft nuts? I'll tighten the lower control arm bolts with the vehicle sitting on the ground at ride height.

Good or not good?

Thanks!

Jack both sides of the front up and put the lower control arms on jack stands. Put 2 more jack stands under the frame rails. Point is make sure the car is secure on the stands before working on it. As long as the weight is on the lower control arms you can tighten the bolts.

Sounds like a safe and easy way to do it. Thank you :thumbsup:

That's another reason I use polyurethane bushings. I can torque the bolts with the suspension in any convenient position.

Having weight on the lower control arms is "probably" good enough. As the jack stands go in towards the center of the car--the inboard end of the control arm--there is less leverage for compressing the spring and therefore moving the suspension to the desired position. Therefore, keep the jack stands as far outboard as possible.

I'm not sure why you'd need another set of jack stands under the frame; unless they're the "backups" in case the stands under the control arms slide out-of-position. Any weight on the stands under the frame take away from the weight compressing the spring.

That's another reason I use polyurethane bushings. I can torque the bolts with the suspension in any convenient position.

Having weight on the lower control arms is "probably" good enough. As the jack stands go in towards the center of the car--the inboard end of the control arm--there is less leverage for compressing the spring and therefore moving the suspension to the desired position. Therefore, keep the jack stands as far outboard as possible.

I'm not sure why you'd need another set of jack stands under the frame; unless they're the "backups" in case the stands under the control arms slide out-of-position. Any weight on the stands under the frame take away from the weight compressing the spring.

I didn't go poly as I wanted zero maintenance (i.e. greasing the poly to to keep them quiet) and with this being a daily driver, I wasn't really looking for anything performance. At any rate, I am where I am :)

I'll use the additional jackstands in a manner in which they don't have the frame resting on them. The frame will be close in case the jackstands slip under the front control arms.

Thanks.

You can also use a set of drive on ramps to do repairs at ride height.