Sorry, no link, but can anyone here point out why I should not buy this car, or more over, what is correct or non-correct about it. I am going to view the car tomorrow, just looking for some help as to not end up in a buyers nightmare. The 67 is located in ORADEL, NJ. The e-bay list # is 140202081126

Thanks
Gregg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fse arch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm37%26satitle%3D 140202081126%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=140202081126

Pretty car but auction photos are too small and not enough description.

Ditto, photos much to small and almost no details. Probably why it's sitting at $15K and probably won't make reserve. Depends on what you want - a fun driver or a 'correct' car - should dictate what you look for.

If a nice driver, look at mechanical issues, overall body condition, etc. If a correctly restored car for shows, then a totally different set of criteria.

Take a camera if you can. Engine numbers, brackets, fuel/brake lines, trim tag, VIN, interior/dash, undercarriage, body panel alignment, blacked out area between upper cove trim and lower trunk weatherstrip (any of THREE variations possible here and more often than not it's overlooked), suspension details, etc.

AZ...DALE...You have photos in your mail ...thanks, publish them here if you like, deal seems good.

Thanks,
Gregg

The more you know the more you know to look for. Read everything you can on the codes etc. for a '67 - here is a good link to one such site - http://www.chevellestuff.com/index.htm

Pictures are too small to pick out smaller details, but the exposed air filter came on 350 and 375 hp motors. Picture showed alum intake which only came on 375 hp. So this gets into the numbers matching arena and how important it is to you. In a nutshell start at the VIN tag, needs to have star shape rivets and compare last of VIN to partial VIN on engine stamp pad without indications of being restamped. Engine stamp pad will also have engine code which tells you what size 396 and trans it originally came with. Water pump, alt, intake, carb, dist, engine block, heads, exhaust manifolds (looks like this has headers), starter, trans, and rear axlel all have date codes that all need to be prior to the build week on the body tag. Most are within 4 weeks, but could be as much as 3 months from build week. My recomondation is to get a "Chevrolet by the Numbers" book which explains the date codes and where to find each.

Take your time going through the car.

Krister, Sent you pics in e-mail

Trim tag looks "funny" to me.. any opins?

The more you know the more you know to look for. Read everything you can on the codes etc. for a '67 - here is a good link to one such site - http://www.chevellestuff.com/index.htm

Pictures are too small to pick out smaller details, but the exposed air filter came on 350 and 375 hp motors. Picture showed alum intake which only came on 375 hp. So this gets into the numbers matching arena and how important it is to you. In a nutshell start at the VIN tag, needs to have star shape rivets and compare last of VIN to partial VIN on engine stamp pad without indications of being restamped. Engine stamp pad will also have engine code which tells you what size 396 and trans it originally came with. Water pump, alt, intake, carb, dist, engine block, heads, exhaust manifolds (looks like this has headers), starter, trans, and rear axlel all have date codes that all need to be prior to the build week on the body tag. Most are within 4 weeks, but could be as much as 3 months from build week. My recomondation is to get a "Chevrolet by the Numbers" book which explains the date codes and where to find each.

Take your time going through the car.Agree. Odds are against it being a 375 motor since only 612 are known to have been built. Intake looks to be Edelbrock and carb unknown. Block should be stamped ET or EU for 325/350 w/TH400 since no A.I.R. is present or expected. Aside from the headers, exhaust is not 'correct', should not extend to bumper. Trans appears correct with April 10 dating and correct trans oil pan.

Trim tag looks alright; doesn't look like it's ever been removed. I do have another Balt. tag dated 04C with a higher 13817 body number (by 50) and lower VIN sequence and while not common, it's not unheard of.

Under the hood is probably the most critical to make it 'correct', but for the bid level right now, looks like a nice driver.

Trim tag looks "funny" to me.. any opins?

Gregg,
I just got a chance to look at your photos.

Looks undisturbed and original to me. The entire car looks good, relatively unrestored, a nice car that can be driven and enjoyed. There is no information on the block. Oil pan doesn't have a screw in the front center, but block does use a cannister type oil filter, so is a 60s type block. Can't say anymore about that.

Appears to be well worth the current bid.
Bruce

Looks like the fender flags are in the wrong place to me, but as said, pictures are too small.