Hey Everybody, Lets hear from the people who mount their battery in the trunk. Do you run a cable from the block to the battery in the trunk? How about the ground on the fender everyone is talking about? What would you do to compensate for that? I myself am putting the battery in the trunk and would like to hear on how other members have done that. Thanks

Sorry <name?> this seemed like a subject of it's own so I moved it.

Carsz, Grounds are the name of the game for this procedure.

I got the Taylor Battery Box kit. I use '0' gauge positive cable from trunk to solenoid, and '0' gauge ground from battery to frame directly beneath box.

I also run a '0' gauge ground strap from frame by rad support to acc bolt on block, and two ground straps from back of block to firewall.

I plan to bypass this all with a '0' gauge from battery to block, as the grounds I have aren't going to stand up to hot starts I believe.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/wiringandfuelline002.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/battboxbase.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/sstrunkshot.jpg

John, Very nice, I agree that you should run the battery negative to the block and not use the frame as a conductor.
As for the small wire I would hook it locally to a body mount point (as opposed to a frame mount point). I didn't see where the solenoid was but I hope it is mounted in the rear near the battery.
I have seen side collisions where the battery cables get pinched and cause a fire. The 0 AWG positive cable going from the back of the car to the starter should not be energized unless you are starting the car. The charging path should be through a separate 10AWG wire to the battery that has a fusible link (like GM originally had) at the battery (the separate small red wire). This way the link will open in the event the wire becomes pinched.

Ron

Good points, Ron.

I forgot to mention the 10ga charge wire. In this photo, you can see it with the 0ga wire coming up the firewall in the black loom. 0ga goes to remote solenoid, 10ga red goes on to alternator. Thanks for the tip on the fusible link, though. I'll be adding that immediately. Any suggestions on size or amperage capacity ? I should also mention that I use a remote shutoff in the trunk, to be NHRA compliant. Main power goes from battery to it, then separate cable from it to solenoid. My charging feed from alternator also terminates at this shut off switch. I don't have a picture of it, but I'll take one and post it later today.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/wiringandfuelline004.jpg

Go here for the right fusible links:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
or
http://www.zzxdatsun.com/280z_stuff.html

Below is the color code for Nissan (datsun) fusible links..
Pink (red) 30 amp
Green 40 amps
Red 50 amps
Yellow 60 amps
Black 80 amps
Blue 100 amps
You could use green or red above, I'd go with green.

very inexpensive but very good insurance.

I believe NHRA requires that the battery be completely disconnected from the rest of the cars electrical system. So you have it right for their requirement as I understand it. Remember the Tech Marshalls are always right.
:noway:


I would still put the solenoid at the back of the car next to the cut out switch. I know it is a lot more work and a PITA.

Auto batteries have an amazing amount of energy in them; enough to melt metal and start fires. I do everything possible to stop that from occurring. Once the sparking and heat starts (as in a collision) you generally can't get to the battery or the point at which the fault is occurring so you just have to watch as your expensive toy goes up in smoke. At least you have the switch in the back...

Ron

Hey Thanks for the responses. What I was going to do was run the positive cable to the starter the negetive to the block and make another gound from the block to the frame. As far as the ground that went to the fender couldn't you make a ground wire and attach it let say to the trunk bracket in the trunk? I don't see no problem doing it that way. Do any of you? Now on the alternator according to the Autowire kit I'm doing as we speak they show 1 wire going from the alternator to the starter positive. The alternator I have can be used as a 1 wire or a 3 wire. Whats the difference? I also didn't plan to use the solenoid the way you did but you got a BB to get started. I got me just a SBC . Thanks for all the input and ideas. Carsz {alias Dean}

I don't understand running the alternator to the starter....
Grounding the battery to the body any where should be fine. Just make sure the high current path back to the starter isn't through the small wire....
3 wire alternators regulate their output at one specific point, where the sense wire is tied. One wire alternators regulate at the output bolt on the alternator only.
GM designed the power system to regulate at the horn relay; thus a 3 wire alternator.
Ron

Hey Everybody, Lets hear from the people who mount their battery in the trunk. Do you run a cable from the block to the battery in the trunk? How about the ground on the fender everyone is talking about? What would you do to compensate for that? I myself am putting the battery in the trunk and would like to hear on how other members have done that. Thanks
:confused:my battery is mounted in the trunk.
the negative ground is attached to the frame rail,
i have a small ground strap going from the frame to the body.

at the front of engine i have a large grounding strap going to the frame rail.
i have another grounding strap from the rear of the engine going to the firewall.
i have another grounding strap going from the frame rail to the radiator support.

i'm only using 2-gauge batt.cable because it works just fine and i didn't need the extra weight of the 0-gauge stuff. your application may vary.
i'm also running a mini-starter. i've been using this set-up for years with out having starting or charging problems:yes:

:confused:my battery is mounted in the trunk.
the negative ground is attached to the frame rail,
i have a small ground strap going from the frame to the body.

at the front of engine i have a large grounding strap going to the frame rail.
i have another grounding strap from the rear of the engine going to the firewall.
i have another grounding strap going from the frame rail to the radiator support.

i'm only using 2-gauge batt.cable because it works just fine and i didn't need the extra weight of the 0-gauge stuff. your application may vary.
i'm also running a mini-starter. i've been using this set-up for years with out having starting or charging problems:yes:

I would like to get an idea of how often you use your car, especially at night time and if you have any stereo stuff in it.
If you do have a stereo power amp do you have any noise problems?
Do you ever drive in rain?
What method do you use to connect the terminals to the frame? Star washers, split ring or Belleville washers?
Do you use any anti-corrosion compounds on the joint?
It would also be interesting to remove the terminals where you connect to the frame and see how the steel and terminals look at the metal to metal interface.
We need guys like you to run experiments like this.:hurray:

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Ron

I would like to get an idea of how often you use your car, especially at night time and if you have any stereo stuff in it.
If you do have a stereo power amp do you have any noise problems?
Do you ever drive in rain?
What method do you use to connect the terminals to the frame? Star washers, split ring or Belleville washers?
Do you use any anti-corrosion compounds on the joint?
It would also be interesting to remove the terminals where you connect to the frame and see how the steel and terminals look at the metal to metal interface.
We need guys like you to run experiments like this.:hurray:

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Ron
:confused:car is used both day and night i have upgraded the headlights with the super brite white H-4 assemblies that are controlled by relays attached to the rad.support. i also am running yellow fog lamps in the original hi-beam buckets.
have am/fm stereo cassette deck in car, no amp installed, no ignition noise problems noted.
grounds are attached to the frame/engine with bolts and star washers.
i am using the battery corrosion protection spray on the ground terminals attached to the frame.
car does have working wipers, it is not driven in rain or wet very often due to dry pavement traction limitations.
i'm running an older IVa-Mallory ignition box, a staging limiter, a timing retard box, distributor. there is also a line-loc wired into the harness also.
we have working back-up lights and several mechanical+electrical gauges wired up inside and outside the car to monitor engine functions.
i have a f*rd solenoid hooked up on the firewall that has been wired into my harness. i have upgraded to a factory internal regulated 98-amp 3-wire altenator that was recommended by MAD-electrical. the wiring harness was modified for this also. i also have the a shut-off switch on the rear of the car. the last battery in the car was a sears-diehard that lasted 11-years, the current battery has been in the car about 3-years.
if there is a problem with the electrical system it hasn't shown up yet, it has a modified stock wiring harness, because it was in working condition and i could replace or modify any of the defective areas. :thumbsup:

My battery is in the trunk also."Optima,Red Top",centered in the trunk in a sealed box,just in front of the fuel cell.5 Ground wires.First, with star washers to frame rail,in the back,passangers side.Second,on back of block to frame rail,under drivers feet.Third,from frame rail to body under passangers feet,on the firewall.Fourth,from frame rail to radiator support.And,fifth,from radiator support back to passangers side frame rail. FWIW,the MSD,is grounded at two locations also,body and frame.After talking to MSD,they informed me that 90% of all problems associated with their ignitions were the result of a "BAD" ground.With 36* locked out timing and a Powermaster Mini starter,firing her up is just a touch of the key away.Alternator, is a Powermaster 100amp,one wire.

Eric and Vince, Thanks for the info.
I think it is common practice by most of us to use the frame as a giant ground. Both of you use the frame to carry the starter current, not something I would want to do. Key point is that it seems to work fine when done properly.

Ron