Anybody have an opinion on these?

BBC 5140 forged rods (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474281600&category=33616)

I definately have to get the factory ones that I have re-sized and was thinking these might be a better alternative....

Thanks, Lance

Kinda tough for me to stray from what's known and proven - many runs and street miles on Eagle SIRs. Dead-on weights and machine work, just about the same price as reworking a set of worn out factory rods that have who knows how many more cycles on them. IMHO

I have to agree. There has to be some compromise in quality for them to sell an "H" beam rod for less than most others are selling "I" beams. I would also vote for the Eagle SIR's in that price range.

I read that they are a low priced alternative and are I-beam rods..

pdq67

I would stick to a well prepped Chevy rod or
the Scat or Eagle I-beam if price is a problem
and a Crower or Lunati if I can afford them.
I have Lunati and Scat am happy with both, so far.
And I must say that the Scat rods were spot on tolerance out of the box.

Lance,
Man, I need to open my eye's .. they are "I" beam .. still, I like to stay with a known good product. They look too nice for the price, something has to be cheap, either the material, the finish sizes, balance etc.

Bill,

Yes I agree they do look too good to be true. If you go to their website they talk about being a supplier for a long time and just going on the public side now. If they were of good quality it would be a great deal. They do have a money back gaurantee. Gotta admit it's tempting to get a better set of rods than the stock ones I have for less than it will cost me to freshen the stock ones. The rods I have came from a engine that spun a rod bearing HARD. The crank is trash. So the rods will definately have suffered from that. Decisions decisions......

Lance

p.s. I was really hoping someone would have already tread on this territory...

I ended up with a new set of Eagle 4340 H-beams for $350. Reworking my old 3/8" stock rods would have cost close to two hundred dollars including the ARP bolts that would have been installed. Instead I bought the H-beams and sold the original rods on ebay for cores with the stock pistons still attached. In the end the small difference in cost was well worth the move to H-beams IMO

Lance,

I got a bad feeling when I looked at the picture
up close. If my mojo is working, I would stay away. I personally didn't like the cuttout in the cap. It takes a good bit of steel off the cap end and forces a cut into the cap for the rod nut.
ewwwww!

JMO.
Dave

PS
I don't really have any mojo. graemlins/sad.gif

I doubt the money back guarantee includes the block and the cam that could be in several pieces if one lets go....

I agree. After sleeping on it I think I'm just gonna go with these. I can't beat the price of having the set I have re-conditioned and for the motor they're going in they'll be just fine smile.gif

Competition Products 3/8" rods (http://www.primediapowerpages.com/cgi-bin/ePages7.filereader?40841ef800450afb0000c0a801b8060 2+EN/products/100216&2D1007319)

Lance

Competition Products is about 2 miles from where I live and where I get all of my stuff, They are great guys and stand behind everything they sell.
How much horsepower are you building?

The Eagle SIR's and Scat rods are nice and less than $300 from them

I don't know what block you are running but on some 396's the eagle sir's will hit the block on #8. All others can also be real tight. I had to cut some clearance into all cyls on my 396..

I'm only building ~450hp. So they should be fine. Unfortunately they're on back order with an unknown delivery date at this time. :(

They can hit even in a mild build up if it is a 396, the caps are just bigger than the stock rods. I can send you a pic of the work that I had to do to mine to make them work.. It's really not that big a deal, but in my case I had the whole short block assembled before I saw it.. Had to tear it all down to grind the block, & clean everything again...When I called Eagle up, they told me that they have never herd of them hitting with a stock stroke, but I have since talked to several people who used them in 396's & have had the same prob!!

Again, it's not that big of a deal if you know it BEFORE you assemble.. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

ssal396,
Can you send me the pictures of the block clearancing you did? I ordered the Eagle SIRS and sent the stock re-manufactured ones back to the vendor.

Thanks, Lance

i know what you guys mean about cheap parts. but years ago we purchased a few sets of what i believe were called SRS racing rods for cheap $. I think between 250-300 per set. we beat and twisted our 427 to 7500 on a regular basis. a few other racers did also. never had 1 fail. does anyone know what happened to the company. i think they were out of ohio. mike

The area you need to look at is right where the rod bolts pass the bottom of the jug, on my block they were all close(.003-.005) but #8 hit the block... As stated b-4 not really a big deal, unless you get the whole damn thing assembled b-4 you see it.. Like I did :mad:

Hopefully this weekend I will get the short block assembled & I can post a pic with the crank & rods in, it makes it ALOT easier to to explain what i am talking about...

Good luck & I hope this helps graemlins/waving.gif

Block Pix (http://community.webshots.com/photo/130708136/140829386aZqMmh)

Engine Pix (http://community.webshots.com/album/130708136NqCsrM)

At 450hp I think that I would just have your rods reconditioned with new rod bolts,those old chevy rods are tougher than you think.