Fel-Pro or Mr Gasket one piece oil pan gasket? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Fel-Pro or Mr Gasket one piece oil pan gasket?

Jan 29th, 08, 12:22 PM
Might as well do everything all at once, out comes the engine...

Which gasket, Fel-Pro or Mr Gasket one piece? I have the impression that the Fel-Pros aren't super highly regarded. Also,they are steel core, and I am afraid that the extra build up height may make my truck oil pan hit the crossmember.

Does anyone know of a good, non-decorative steel pan that fits a big block in a Chevelle, with no chance of hitting? I don't care about 5 vs 6 quarts, the car doesn't get driven hard and the oil gets changed every 1000 miles per season.

Jan 29th, 08, 12:28 PM
My personal opinion...save a few bucks and stick with the standard pan gasket.
Every damn one pc pan gasket I've had leaked no matter what. :( Including the one now in my car...but not for long...

Jan 29th, 08, 1:32 PM
I have done a bunch of engines with the Fel Pro one piece and 4 piece gaskets and have no problem with the 4-piece, but have had issues with the one piece so I don't use them any more.

Jan 29th, 08, 2:04 PM
I used a Fel-Pro silicone one-piece on my SB400 in the truck last Summer and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Previouisly I could never find a pan gasket that would provide a good seal. I even had to install and replace the pan a couple of times so it was nice that I didn't destroy the gasket in the process and could just reuse it. I like the nylon inserts around the bolt holes which make lining up the holes easier and prevents overtightening the bolts and damaging the gasket.

I'll let you know how the BBC version works when I finally get my 427 fired some day in the distant future!

Jan 29th, 08, 2:14 PM
I've had 2 fel-pro 1 pc gaskets on my SBC, both leak a drop every once in a while, this is with no silicone.

Jan 29th, 08, 2:19 PM
I have the Fel-Pro 1 piece on my SBC, no issues so far.

I have read here that the BBC version is a different story. I bought the Mr. Gasket version as recommended by others here.

Jan 29th, 08, 2:26 PM
Wildman.... and your success with the Mr. Gasket is?

Jan 29th, 08, 3:05 PM
Wildman.... and your success with the Mr. Gasket is?


It is going into use within the next few weeks.

HERE (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204249&highlight=gasket+oil+pan) is a thread discussing the Fel Pro likes to crumble -

Jan 29th, 08, 7:28 PM
I used both and like the Mr Gasket better.

Jan 29th, 08, 8:42 PM
I have had the earlier version of the felpro 1pc pan gasket on my 396/bbc since august 2001 and its been decent thus far .

It's had only a smideg of seepage on front t/cover corners to pan interface thats just enough to pick up some dirt & turn black over time which wipes off easily,but it never seems to leave drips of oil on the garage floor floor.

But i had the std type felpro 4 pc oil pan gasket on the motor from 1979-2001 and it was leaking a lot 22yrs later which was the reason i pulled the motor to fix it.

But since i did an econo rbld on the motor in 1979 for $600 (was only 23yr old kid at the time) i decied to go thorugh the motor again while it was out ,i spent approx $3,600-$3,800 on machine work & parts this time arround & i went through it completely.

But i have to admit the motor was still running fine propr to pulling it to fix leaking oil pan. It was not using much oil ,had 30lbs idle & 58-60lbs at cruise for hot oil pressure but i still didnt trust that if i only fixed the pan gasket that a bearing or head gasket etc wouldnt let loose a yr or 2 down the road having to pull it out again.

BTW,the early version of the felpro 1 pc pan gasket didnt come with any paperwork stating bolt torque and it wasnt on the box either. Back in 2001 when i installed the gasket i didnt have the intranet and tried tocontact felpro to ask what correct trq was for pan bolts but could no get a holdof them so i used stock gm oil pan bolt trq.

The stock trk really crushed/compressed the heackout of the gasket so i backe it off some to where it looked reasonable and went with it.

Then when i got intranet a few yrs later i contacted felpro and long story short found out the bolt torq for the felpro 1 pc pan gasket was approx 1/2 of what the std 4 pc pan gasket bolt trq was .

My early version of the 1 pc felpro gasket of 8 yrs ago didnt have trq limiter sleeves either so if someone was to have over torqued the earlier version 1pc gasket by 2x using stock gm pan bolt trq value thats why it could crumble/split because its been over torqued by 2x what it shold be.


Jan 29th, 08, 9:03 PM
I used the Fel-Pro gaskets on both my 396 and when I changed to the 496 I installed one. No problems with either. I did use silicone sealer at the corners near the crank.

Jan 29th, 08, 9:07 PM
Funny, I have the 1 piece gasket and it doesnt leak at all. And, I've had it off/on 3 times. I do hit all four corners, above and below the gasket with RTV. Not sure what make the gasket is, but its black.

Jan 29th, 08, 9:08 PM
I dunno what I was smokin, but I could swear I read somewhere round here that the best way to go was using the one piece gasket.
I just ordered the fel-pro one piece and I also have the fel-pro multi piece gasket and will take a WAG at which one to use.

Jan 29th, 08, 10:16 PM
Funny, I have the 1 piece gasket and it doesnt leak at all. And, I've had it off/on 3 times. I do hit all four corners, above and below the gasket with RTV. Not sure what make the gasket is, but its black.

Sounds like you have the mr. gasket one. Fel pro unit is blue.

Feb 26th, 10, 12:20 AM
Sorry to revive this ancient thread- Just looking for opinions on one-piece vs. the old standard cork & rubber four piece for my 283... I know I need the thick front seal. Thanks-

Feb 26th, 10, 9:33 AM
A few years ago, I switched from 4 to 1-piece pan gaskets. I could always get a 4-piece to seal by using gasket sealer on the side rails and then some RTV in the corners. No leaks.
Then I started using the 1-piece gasket and has some MINOR leaks. The 1-piece instructions say NOT to use any kind of sealer. Well, just to see what happened, I tried some RTV in the corners of the 1-piece. NO LEAKS! So now when I use a 1-piece gasket, I use a fair amount of RTV in the corners and a LITTLE in the groove of the rear main cap and the groove in the bottom of the timing cover, but NONE on the pan side of the grooves. No leaks.

Feb 26th, 10, 9:55 AM
I just put a Fel Pro one piece on a BBC, used rtv in the corners. No leaks so far!

Feb 26th, 10, 10:57 AM
Thanks guys- That's just the info I was looking for. One more quick question: Buy saying RTV on the corners, you mean the spots where the rubber met the cork on the old 4 piece?


Feb 26th, 10, 11:33 AM
Thanks guys- That's just the info I was looking for. One more quick question: Buy saying RTV on the corners, you mean the spots where the rubber met the cork on the old 4 piece?



Yes, the corners where rubber seals and cork gaskets come together (on the four piece set) is what they are referring to. Use just a very slight amount of RTV at these points and do not use any sealer, RTV, silicon or other goop on the gasket itself. Use a torque wrench and torque the bolts to the exact spec called for in the instructions. Although not usually specified in the instructions, I torque the bolts in sequence, starting at the center of the pan rail and working outwards toward the front and back, on both sides of the pan. If there are no instructions or the dog ate yours, contact the gasket manufacturer for this important information before proceeding. Make sure that all of the sealing surfaces are straight, clean and dry.

Feb 26th, 10, 11:48 AM
Thanks- Engine has to come out for this, so I want to get it right... Always time to do things correctly the 2nd time, huh? :wacko:

Nov 15th, 10, 4:54 PM
I just fired up my 355 which I put together with a Felpro blue one piece and sure enough, a dripping leak right below the rear main seal housing. RTV in the corners and torqued to spec. Now I'm PO'ed that I have to pull the engine to fix it. The old 283 had a 4 piece and just a small leak at the bottom of the timing cover. I had the same pan gasket problem with the 1 piece in my 350 TBI boat motor. Guess I didn't learn the first time around!

Nov 15th, 10, 5:07 PM
We have alwyas used the one peice Detroit gasket it was a soft Nitrol rubber gasket and they switched to Corteco which was good till they came out with the same gasket as the Felpro 1 peice gaskt only a cream color, So them we switched to the MR. Gasket soft rubber gasket and know they have gone to the one china gasket like the rest of them.

Mr. gasket told me they would never go to the china gasket so much for that!!!

Aug 10th, 11, 1:38 PM
I've read through a number of these posts now as I'm pulling the motor this next week to repair a somewhat major oil spill and can't really see a solid direction to turn to based on success/failure of any one type of gasket. I replaced the rear main, timing, and oil pan gaskets 3 years ago during the rebuild of my '70 402. I coated the rear main with oil from my finger (the part that wipes the crank) and put some sealer on the 2-piece joints before offsetting about 1/2' to avoid seal joint alignment with the bearing cap, and final assembly. On initial start all was fine, but now after a few miles I started getting a small leak and now after about 200 miles on the car the leak is getting worse.

Seems to me that there must be a hundred different reasons for this general area to leak from poorly designed (relative to today) and/or fitting parts, warps, gouges in mating surfaces, crank wear, gasket slippage during assembly, etc. As someone seems to have leaks with either setup and a similar number of people have had success with any given gasket type.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to put the completed engine on a dyno/stand and run it and check for leaks before installing in the car. But who can do that?

I plan to go old school with a 4-piece and RTV since the engine will be out and upside down, I should be able to align everything just fine and the cost is much less. I see the advantage of not having to scrape off RTV during the next replacement, but that should be many miles and years down the road if done to mfg spec.

My 2 cent rant....

Aug 10th, 11, 5:01 PM
I pulled my motor to replace the leaking Fel-Pro blue discussed above above with another Fel-Pro that is gray. Sure enough, It leaks as well but not as bad as the Blue one. This time I used black RTV around the entire gasket on block side and pan side and it still didn't seem to help. I guess I'll just live with it.

Sep 6th, 11, 9:19 PM
Well, I did exactly the opposite of what I said I was going to do. After 3 hours of taking things off, having the starter fall on my head and tear a gash in it, I simply lifted the motor up about 5 inches and cleaned the bottom of the block and top of the pan and put in some RTV and replaced the existing blue single-piece gasket. I reassembled and drove around for a half hour or so. Still had some leaks, but not as bad. I lifted the car and checked and found the pan area to be clean and dry.

I just confirmed a rear main leak. Now instead of saving time by just lifting the motor, I get to do it all over again and do it right this time... Argh.