Hi fellas. Checking wheel play etc on the front of the 70 today. I have replaced wheel bearings etc.. on 4x4 vehicles mostly in my time. I know how to check wheel bearings etc.. for play etc.. Question is, is it much different to check front wheel bearing play on my 70?? After reading the posts I did a search on, I see many schools of thought. I jacked up my front end today, both wheels at 12:00 and 6:00 feel like they have play/movement and I can hear a thump etc, but at 3:00 and 9:00, they feel solid. Do I need to check it another way?? I have not worked on an only rear wheel drive car since I was a kid with my dad, so I was wondering what advice you guys could offer. I was wondering if it was possible that the bearings just needed to be tightened? Thanks in advance for your help. Tom. :beers:

When was the last time they had fresh grease?

Sure, tapered roller bearings can be adjusted easy enough--but--if the grease is old, you might as well pull 'em apart, bathe 'em in solvent and repack with fresh grease.

As for the adjustment; disc brake cars need to have them a bit tighter than what's allowed for drum brake cars--but--I just use the same procedure on all of 'em.

Seat the bearings by spinning the rotor/drum/wheel as you tighten the retaining nut. There's an official torque setting for this; I just go finger tight and about another half-flat or so. Once set, back off and re-tighten finger tight. Back off until the cotter pin can be installed.

If you have play at 6 and 12; but not at 3 and 9--I'd be wondering about the ball joints.

Don't forget that the stamped sheetmetal nut cover for the cotter pin can be installed in several positions--use the position that requires the least amount of backing off. Similarly, some spindles are double-drilled so you could use whichever cotter pin hole lines up best.

Some older vehicles used ball bearings; those have to have some preload while tapered roller bearings don't like preload.

When was the last time they had fresh grease?

Sure, tapered roller bearings can be adjusted easy enough--but--if the grease is old, you might as well pull 'em apart, bathe 'em in solvent and repack with fresh grease.

As for the adjustment; disc brake cars need to have them a bit tighter than what's allowed for drum brake cars--but--I just use the same procedure on all of 'em.

Seat the bearings by spinning the rotor/drum/wheel as you tighten the retaining nut. There's an official torque setting for this; I just go finger tight and about another half-flat or so. Once set, back off and re-tighten finger tight. Install the cotter pin if possible; if not, back off until the cotter pin can be installed.

If you have play at 6 and 12; but not at 3 and 9--I'd be wondering about the ball joints.

Don't forget that the stamped sheetmetal nut cover for the cotter pin can be installed in several positions--use the position that requires the least amount of backing off.

Some older vehicles used ball bearings; those have to have some preload while tapered roller bearings don't like preload.


The 6 - 12, 3 - 9 thing is interesting. What makes you think ball joints, I must be missing something? I'd replace the bearings if I found that.

Bearings will have play no matter WHERE your hands are positioned. But ball joint radial play would be most easily tested at 6 and 12; while tie rod ends and idler arms would be tested for radial play by pulling at 3 and 9.

Wouldn't hurt to LOOK at the joints while someone shakes the tires at the two hand positions; if you can see ball joint movement at 6 and 12; or if you see steering joint movement at 3 and 9--you've got more going on than just wheel bearings. The original poster said he could hear a "thump" at 6 and 12; while that "could" be bearings, I think he's hearing wiped ball joints. If the bearings were loose enough to thump at 6 and 12; they'd be loose at 3 and 9, too--but he says they're not.

6 and 12--3 and 9. All I know is that at 5:30, it's time for beer. :beers:

Bearings will have play no matter WHERE your hands are positioned. But ball joint radial play would be most easily tested at 6 and 12; while tie rod ends and idler arms would be tested for radial play by pulling at 3 and 9.

Wouldn't hurt to LOOK at the joints while someone shakes the tires at the two hand positions; if you can see ball joint movement at 6 and 12; or if you see steering joint movement at 3 and 9--you've got more going on than just wheel bearings. The original poster said he could hear a "thump" at 6 and 12; while that "could" be bearings, I think he's hearing wiped ball joints. If the bearings were loose enough to thump at 6 and 12; they'd be loose at 3 and 9, too--but he says they're not.

6 and 12--3 and 9. All I know is that at 5:30, it's time for beer. :beers:

Got it, I was thinking play in the bearings, not front end linkage.

Ask twelve guys how to adjust front wheel bearings and you'll get twelve different approaches. And probably, all twelve will get you the same end result.

Here's what the General sez:

While rotating the wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12 lbs. ft. torque.

Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter key pin. If slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut 1/2 flat or less as required to insert cotter pin.

Bearing should have zero preload and .001" to .008" end movement when properly adjusted.