I've called around to my local parts houses, and even the rental stores - but no luck. I really didn't want to buy a reamer - would anyone be willing to lend me one? I'd pay round trip shipping, plus give you some beer $$ for your trouble. It's the 1 1/2 /ft 7* reamer. I need to touchup the two holes in my centerlink shaft because I can't get the castle nut down far enough for the cotter pin. Thanks in advance.

I think Snap On dealers carry a "repair" 7 degree reamer...will last long enough for about a dozen holes.

Bill - I thought you bought your centerlink from southwest speed - were you able to get cotter pins on?

I saw one on the snapon site for $48 - but I'm not sure it's the right one. It says 1/2" - 1", but I'm not sure over what distance - it may not be the 1.5"/ft that I need.

Bill - I thought you bought your centerlink from southwest speed - were you able to get cotter pins on?

Mike,
I believe you're right. It's been about a year so I don't remember exactly where the purchase was made. But, regardless, everything bolted together just fine using stock, replacement inner tierods.

I have stock ends too and they fit fine on my stock centerlink.....I think my new one was made on a Friday or a Monday!

Another option would be for a machine shop to mill down the center link a bit (ie thickness)?

The thickness matches the stock one exactly - 3/4" - so I'd rather not..... I'll probably just end up ordering a reamer in a few days...

The thickness matches the stock one exactly - 3/4" - so I'd rather not..... I'll probably just end up ordering a reamer in a few days...

Your are right, don't make it any thinner. Why can't you return it as defective/out of tolerance?

I'm waiting for a call back now - That would likely be the cheapest way out - but with my luck, the next one the send would be the same. It's a nice piece too - the bar is 7/8", a little thicker than stock (not the tie rod mounting point - that's 3/4")...... for some reason I was feeling guily that I've already greased it and they wouldn't want it back....

I looked around work today...all we had was #2 and #3 tapered reamers.
I didn't have too much time to continue my search. :(
I need to find a conversion chart to find out what angles those really are.

This URL may be of interest:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2918,27_Ball-Joint-Tapered-Reamers.html?itemNo=reamer

Guy's - Matt brought me to my senses....Why should I need to fix an out of tolerance part - The retailer agreed, and they are replacing it.... I tend to see a lot of problems at work - so I think my first response is 'how can I fix this', instead of 'why should I have to fix this'....

Guy's - Matt brought me to my senses....Why should I need to fix an out of tolerance part - The retailer agreed, and they are replacing it.... I tend to see a lot of problems at work - so I think my first response is 'how can I fix this', instead of 'why should I have to fix this'....

If a reamer was $5, it would be a different story. Send it back and work on something else.

I had to return my centerlink i bought from Southwest speed. Could'nt fit the cotter pins on. They reamed it and sent it back to me...fixed the cotter pin issue but it still didnt fit. Inner tie rod was hitting the frame on the left side.

Robert - do you have stock spindles / steering arm? Mine seemed to have plent of room there....

yeah stock spindle, and steering arms. Southwest speed was very nice. I purchased the pitman, centerlink and idler arm. With all new items installed the left inner tie rod would hit the frame. It appeared that the left pitman arm was too long. So i started replacing parts with my original parts and found that everything worked with my oem centerlink but not the southwest one. Took some measurements with a dial caliper and had taken photos but deleted them. So now i have my original link. It only has 55k miles and seems tight. I never drove this car so we'll see. Rob