72mike
Jan 28th, 08, 11:14 AM
All,
I just finished installing a Master Power power front disc brake conversion kit on my '72 Chevelle. My car originally had manual drums.
As far as plumbing the new system, it appears to me that I need to plumb the two lines between the proportioning valve that came with the kit (mounted with short lines (supplied in the kit) just below the new master cylinder) and the stock combination valve/junction block that is mounted on the frame near the firewall. The original lines are too short because of the added length of the booster.
Also, when I was installing the new brake hoses that came with the kit, I was unable to loosen the driver's side hard tube from the OE rubber brake line. That resulted in breaking the line to remove the OE hose.
Bottom line questions:
1. Is it OK to plumb between the new proportioning valve to the OE combo valve/junction block?
2. Assuming the answer to Question 1 is yes, do the lines need to have loops in them?
3. Would it be better to eliminate the OE combo valve/junction block and plumb the brake lines directly from the new proportioning valve?
4. If the answer to Question #1 is yes, then I'd just need a brake line kit for a manual drum brake car to replace the line I broke getting the brake hose off, correct?
FYI, the Master Power kit mounts the proportioning valve a little different from other kits I've seen. They mount it on its side and tucked up close to the bottom of the master cylinder. Overall, I was very pleased with the quality of the kit.
Thanks so much for your help and advice.
Take care,
Mike
I just finished installing a Master Power power front disc brake conversion kit on my '72 Chevelle. My car originally had manual drums.
As far as plumbing the new system, it appears to me that I need to plumb the two lines between the proportioning valve that came with the kit (mounted with short lines (supplied in the kit) just below the new master cylinder) and the stock combination valve/junction block that is mounted on the frame near the firewall. The original lines are too short because of the added length of the booster.
Also, when I was installing the new brake hoses that came with the kit, I was unable to loosen the driver's side hard tube from the OE rubber brake line. That resulted in breaking the line to remove the OE hose.
Bottom line questions:
1. Is it OK to plumb between the new proportioning valve to the OE combo valve/junction block?
2. Assuming the answer to Question 1 is yes, do the lines need to have loops in them?
3. Would it be better to eliminate the OE combo valve/junction block and plumb the brake lines directly from the new proportioning valve?
4. If the answer to Question #1 is yes, then I'd just need a brake line kit for a manual drum brake car to replace the line I broke getting the brake hose off, correct?
FYI, the Master Power kit mounts the proportioning valve a little different from other kits I've seen. They mount it on its side and tucked up close to the bottom of the master cylinder. Overall, I was very pleased with the quality of the kit.
Thanks so much for your help and advice.
Take care,
Mike