Okay this is a '65 biscayne, not sure how similar to the chevelle but I thought I would give it a shot. Trying to remove the spindle so I can replace the ball joints.

I got the castle nuts loosened/lowered on the top and bottom but I cant get the spindle to come loose from the ball joint studs (sorry if my terminology is off)

I beat on it for a while with some pickle forks to no avail. Do I need to heat it with a torch or is there a tool for this?

Once you loosen the bolts are you allowing the arms to hang so that the coil springs apply pressure to the ball joints? Between the spring pressure and a couple of good whacks should help break it loose. Be sure not to loosen the castle nuts too much where they might pop off.

Okay this is a '65 biscayne, not sure how similar to the chevelle but I thought I would give it a shot. Trying to remove the spindle so I can replace the ball joints.

I got the castle nuts loosened/lowered on the top and bottom but I cant get the spindle to come loose from the ball joint studs (sorry if my terminology is off)

I beat on it for a while with some pickle forks to no avail. Do I need to heat it with a torch or is there a tool for this?

I assume you know what a BFH is, get one and turn the assembly so you have a clear shot at the upper or lower and beat the hell out of it:yes:

That is the best way, you use the stored energy in the spring to help force it apart, but you need to hit it, hard:yes:

Those forks are nearly useless on a older car that's been together forever.

You are trying to slightly distort the hole so it will come loose.

A BFH in the right hand will always get the job done. When I was 15 and in my high school auto mechanics class our teacher always said that when all else fails break out the BFH. 24 years later this is still very true!

A BFH in the right hand will always get the job done. When I was 15 and in my high school auto mechanics class our teacher always said that when all else fails break out the BFH. 24 years later this is still very true!

When that baby seperates it will sound like a gun shot, scared the hell out of me the first time:beers:

When that baby seperates it will sound like a gun shot, scared the hell out of me the first time:beers:

Always wear safety glasses....no exceptions folks.

If a pickle fork won't do it--you don't have the right pickle fork. You will ruin the boot, however.

If you need to pull it apart without tearing the boot, I suggest the sort of tool called out in the shop manual--a turnbuckle sort of deal that goes between the ball joint studs (upper and lower joints) and then threads open in a way that pushes the studs out of the arm.

A variation on that is the specialty tools that are more-or-less a two-jaw puller. Install the jaws on the spindle, and the pressure screw on the top of the stud. Pops 'em right out. http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Suspension_Steering/KD41690.htm?per=15&page=2&utm_source=&utm_medium=GS&utm_campaign=toolfetch&cm_ite=

Be sure not to loosen the castle nuts too much where they might pop off.

Can I assume that the nuts are the only thing that holds the springs in place?

Schurkey,
That's exactly what I was looking for... I have already put a chip in my fender using a medium BFH. Dont want to upgrade the chip to a dent if I dont have to.

Thanks everybody.

Can I assume that the nuts are the only thing that holds the springs in place?

Pretty much, there is a perch up inside the frame the holds the spring in position. Then the cup in the LCA that olds the bottom but once the spindle seperates from the bolt joint the control arms can spread far enough apart to allow the spring to come out.

You only need to back off the nuts about 1/4". Since it's a taper fit once the spindle let's go of the ball joint you're done. Then you can slowly back the nut off the rest of the way.

On a 65 Biscayne, you cannot use spring pressure to separate the lower BJ, only the upper. On the big cars throughout the 60s, the lower BJ was pointed downward, so spring pressure actually pushes the balljoint harder into the spindle.

You need to have the lower arm supported on jack stands with the weight of the car on them, and use a pickle-fork. There is no easier way on the inverted balljoint style spindle & arms. Applying heat may help, but you'll still need to use the pickle-fork to pop it loose.

Pretty much, there is a perch up inside the frame the holds the spring in position. Then the cup in the LCA that olds the bottom but once the spindle seperates from the bolt joint the control arms can spread far enough apart to allow the spring to come out.

You only need to back off the nuts about 1/4". Since it's a taper fit once the spindle let's go of the ball joint you're done. Then you can slowly back the nut off the rest of the way.

Thanks. :)

On a 65 Biscayne, you cannot use spring pressure to separate the lower BJ, only the upper. On the big cars throughout the 60s, the lower BJ was pointed downward, so spring pressure actually pushes the balljoint harder into the spindle.
...

Correct, they both point down.

Question, would removing the drum and brake assembly make this process easier?

Correct, they both point down.

Question, would removing the drum and brake assembly make this process easier?

It might gain you a little room but not much. You'll still have the backing plate, unless you remove that too, which is almost the same diameter as the drum. Removing the backing plate is a lot more involved and not really worth it.

I had the best results by disconnecting the tie rod first, by hitting the outside of the steering arm right with a solid direct hit from a bfh. The idea is to shock the socket around the tapered joint to release the joint. A few good licks will do it usually. Next put a floor jack under the lower a arm and turn the spindle for the best angle of attack to the back of the spindle, right where the ball joint goes in, Again make a solid direct hit to the spindle to shock it loose. Think of making the socket that holds the taper shake loose of the taper.
Be careful, things may really jump when they come apart. Release the lower one last so the weight of the spindle lets it fall when you shock it loose.

I hope this makes sense, it really works.

Above all watch yourself and be careful.

Jeff

I too had best results removing the tie rod first, loosen the nut but do not remove, the sping would be deadly! Also you must have your jack stand under the frame as the A arm needs to be free to pop down retained by the spring! An option is the spindle seperator that our guy Savitske sells for abt $20
http://www.scandc.com/suspensions.htm

On a 65 Biscayne, you cannot use spring pressure to separate the lower BJ, only the upper. On the big cars throughout the 60s, the lower BJ was pointed downward, so spring pressure actually pushes the balljoint harder into the spindle.

This is not the same as a chevelle so this makes a difference on full size cars and corvettes. Make sure jack is under a-frame and the weight of the car will hold the spring in place until you let the jack down (with jack stand under frame). I take the nuts all the way off, since they might get stuck and just spin without unthreading after the bj pops loose.

HTH

Jeff

I take the nuts all the way off, since they might get stuck and just spin without unthreading after the bj pops loose.

And you're still alive??

Frankly I wouldn't recommend completely removing the nuts from the BJ studs. Leave them on with a minimum of 4 - 5 turns on the stud. When this assembly "lets go" there can be a tremendous amount of energy released... more than enough to kick a floor jack out of the way, drop the car, and send things flying!

It's a minor inconvenience to split/crack a nut off a stud compared to having a coil spring surgically removed from your sternum so you fit into a casket!
Whatever method you use, stay well off/away from the "plane of flight" that the spring is going to go!

And you're still alive??

You bet! I'm crazy, not stupid. LOL

On the big car the weight of the car will hold the spring in place, so no danger of it flying out. The ball joints BOTH point down, unlike most others. That's critical here,

That said, I always take the nuts all the way off on all cars, but I plan ahead for a clear path, if the spring jumps out. I support the frame on good jackstands, and use a large stable floor jack under the a-frame. If you do the uppers first, the spring will be contained by the spindle. Then just support the lower a-frame to do the lower ball joint.

If that's not totally clear, or not comfortable for you, then don't risk it, please.

Thanks for your concern!

Jeff

When I did my 64 I popped the top joint with a bfh and the let the pressure off the spring. I then removed the lower arm from the car completely because it bolted to the bottom of the frame rail not in pockets like the chevelle. Then I put the arm in a vice with the spindle hanging and smacked it with a hammer the weight of the spindle helped remove it from the stud.