I dropped the block off in mid Nov. 03 for a 496 stroker project. Dec. he ordered +.070" pistons. Now it's a 498". Brought in the new eagle crank after Christmas. First week of March he bores/hones it and orders the rods. This is just a short block. Looks like I'll be driving the rotating assy 1.5 hrs for balancing; waiting a week or so, then going back to get it. Is this painful or what. I'm almost to the point of bringing it home. I don't have the proper tools, I.E. rod bolt stretch measuring device or ring compressor etc. This is the only reputable shop around. Kinda explains why he's so busy and I'm low on the priority list. Can anyone see the light, cause I surely can't. graemlins/clonk.gif

Sounds like "justification" for new tools to me :D ! Seriously, as far as a strech gage goes, you could probably get away with a good torque wrench. I don't think I know anyone with a stretch gage and I know plenty of people who've built motors. It is intimitating but also "doable". Think about DIY'ing it. It's a great feeling to fired up a motor that YOU built.

Jeff

ChevyWidow,
The reward for building your own engine is great. In my opinion, following basic engine building is all you need. Besides, there is no better way to learn. If you make a mistake it is not the end of the world, learn from it and go forward. My thought is that the large majority of hot rod engines are home built using only basic tools.
Larry Woodfin
Crate Racer

Thanks for the encouraging words, but unfortunately I don't have the means of decking the block. He obviously has to assemble at least one cylinder to determine how much needs to be cut. Once he gets to that point, then I'd consider bringing her home. But till then, guess I'll just play the waiting game. Tony A. graemlins/sad.gif

Tony,
If your rods have capscrews, you couldn't use a stretch gauge anyway 'cause you can't access both ends of a capscrew. Just use a GOOD torque wrench.

You could bring it home now and do the deck height measurement yourself, then just take it back and tell him to cut.xxx off this side and .xxx off the other side.
Just put the crank in with the front and rear main bearing, assemble 1 rod to 1 piston and put a bearing in the rod. Drop the rod and piston in the cylinders at each corner, and use depth mic or straightedge and feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the flat surface of the piston and the deck. You won't even need to torque on the rod cap. Just oil the bearing and let it rest on the rod journal.
Write the dimension down and then you can calculate how much you need cut off to get to your desired deck height.

Randy

Originally posted by ToyzRMe:
Tony,
If your rods have capscrews, you couldn't use a stretch gauge anyway 'cause you can't access both ends of a capscrew. Just use a GOOD torque wrench.

Randy Yes you can use a stretch guage with capscrews rods. I don't know of any rods with blind holes.
Also, yes you can "just use a torque wrench" but stretch guages are very inexpensive now & are the right way to do it.

You will find the torque will vary a bunch at the same stretch even with the same lube.
Most of the rod & bolt manufactureres stay quite conservative on torque values as they know this.
I have seen "50 ft lb bolts" take 60 to 70 lbs to get to the desired stretch depending on lube, how accurate your wrench is etc.

If you are going to use a torque wrench you want to torque each bolt at least 3 times loosening it between torques. The reason for this is the load value on the bolt will go up as the two surfaces burnish each other lessening the friction that you are measuring.

Torque is very dependent on friction & lube used & is why almost all OEM's are going to the "Torque Angle" method of tightening bolts.

Of course you could always buy the $4500 sunnen torque wrench that will measure & record the stretch of bolts from one end :D

whatever did they use back in the old days? A torque wrench is fine, And motors still come apart whether you measure bolt stretch or use a torque wrench. Right graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by Rapid Robert:
whatever did they use back in the old days? A torque wrench is fine, And motors still come apart whether you measure bolt stretch or use a torque wrench. Right graemlins/thumbsup.gif =
Hey,,,,,, I be from the old days :D
And yes, no matter how you do it S##t Happens :eek:
It just seems to happen with less frequency when you take the time to do it right,,, not always but most of the time smile.gif

Anyway, I agree, if $50 or so is to much for the correct tool a torque wrench is fine just take the time to torque each one a minimum of three times with new fastners & use the correct lube, it does make a difference.
If you want to see how much, scribe a line on the fastner, cycle it three or more times & see how much further your mark ends up from the first time.
Also on another note,, you might want to get your wrench calibrated once in a while if it is the click type.

I hear you Mike!

But for my shade-tree motors, the old ways do OK for me..

pdq67