This past seasons I busted out my stock lower control arms, the bushings were warn out completely and when I hit a bump it snapped and was dragging, pretty scary stuff. But anyways the lower control arms were replaced with all new components, bushings, end links, ball joints, etc. The autoplaces want roughly $175 to replace the upper control arm ball joints and bushings which I need very very badly. So what Im debating is saving that near $200 and buying new upper tubular arms and just doing it myself. Without my books and catelogs in front of me I remember lower control arms arent made for chevelles aftermarket yet, uppers are available though arent they? And if I did do this would it be worth the upgrade? Time and money, or just go get my stock arms redone? Anyone use them?

lower control arms arent made for chevelles aftermarket yet, uppers are available though arent they?Phil,
Global West makes the lowers, as does Fat Man Fabrications and a few others. Hotchkis once told me they would NOT be making lowers as there was too much liability involved... If I was going with lowers, I'd use the Global West, as their parts seem to be well engineered for performance, while some others (while still tubular) seem to be more stock replacements.

$175? wow... The upper balljoints are pretty easy to change. Basically, you need a drill, grinder or cut-off wheel to slice through the 4 rivits holding the BJ to the upper arm (assuming its the original BJ)... The newer arms have 4 bolts to replace the rivits... No problem.

Getting the stock upper bushings out can be a pain (I've seen shops usually use air chisles for this), but installing just requires a press and the appropriate pieces for pressing the new bushings into place. Have to be careful not to collapse the upper arm...

One thing to think about before buying new custom upper and/or lower arms: Are you planing on spindle upgrades? Tall spindle conversions require different upper arms. So if you are spending the extra money for new control arms, be sure you think far ahead to what you eventually want on the car...

If you want the big brakes/tall spindles, but can't afford that right now, then maybe you should rebuild the stock arms until you can get enough money to buy all the parts at once...


Have you ever met/talked to the guys from the Sac Chevelles club? I know Tristan (screen-name "Spawn22" here on Team Chevelle) is talking about doing the tall spindle swap (I think fairly soon). Even if you are doing a standard rebuild, it will be similar (and maybe they know a shop with a better price, or someone willing to do this on the side). Maybe they would let you watch, and who knows, maybe you will meet some new friends that will help out on your ride...

I'd offer to help, but I live down in Elk Grove and have a new baby (well, 1-year old now), so I usually don't get out for major projects, especially with the extra travel...

Tubular lowers are available from Fatman Fabrications and Global West.

For uppers, I think only Fatman has stock dimension arms. The rest make them only for the tall spindle so if you don't have those, you'll want stock arms.

Tim.

I'm running these http://www.artmorrison.com/bolton.htm

Sure made a difference on my setup!

I wasnt really plan on changing out the spindles, I debated that when I dropped the front, the old coil springs had spacers in them and were beat to hell, so I put on 2" drop springs and love the way they turned out, I think these were the ones I got from OPG. I think Ill shop around for a good price to get these stocks redone right in town and hit up Tristian. Thanks I'll check out these links too for now graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hey JYD, that Morrison kit looks like a nice setup, easy to bolt on it sounds like to. How does it work, are the shocks still through the coil spring?

Check out the upper control arms at daymotorsports.com They have a large selection and extremly affordable. I talked to them awhile back and he claimed to run the alum. ones on his 3400 lb. dirt track car with no problems.
Duane

Do it yourself! Why pay a shop to mess with it when it's so EASY!

Pull control arms off car. If you block the lower arms securely, don't drop the shocks, and you won't have issues with the springs unloading.

Upper ball joint is riveted, originally. The replacement one bolts in. Grind off four rivets on each side, ball joint falls out. Bolt new ones in. Done.

Do NOT use rubber bushings. Burn out the old rubber bushings and inner sleeves. Polish the ORIGINAL outer shells so they're nice and pretty inside. Lube and push in polyurethane bushings and the new inner sleeves with your fingers. Done.

Bolt it together and take it to an alignment shop.

I did the lowers all myself until I got to the bushings I thought the only to get them in was getting them machine pressed in. I wont use rubber either, polyurethane always smile.gif But If I can press them in myself I'll do it. But I dont want to pay to get part of it done, if I have to pay part id rather pay all and have someone do it. The lowers were easy though and the springs etc graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by TronDD:
For uppers, I think only Fatman has stock dimension arms. The rest make them only for the tall spindle so if you don't have those, you'll want stock arms.
Tim
Global West builds tubular upper a-arms with stock dimensions. I have a pair of them.

same here, Global West upper and lowers stock spindles.

I am rebuilding my entire front suspension for my 69 and I have done everything my self Everything comes off reasonably easy I have never done any of this before I took the control arms in to have the ball joints taken out by the shop cost 1hr labor 50$ then I did the bushings borrowed a acetylene tank and heated up the metal hammered out the bushings and I am going to use my stock upper and lower control arms, clean and powdercoat them with new poly bushings and balljoints If you have the extra cash to have the shop do it then you might save some bruised knuckels, but I know I dont!!!

my localle parts house pressed my uppers in for ten dallars, all 4 of them. make sure to put the spacers back in the same way they come out to keep the front end aligned. Dave

Originally posted by Clint44:
Global West builds tubular upper a-arms with stock dimensions. I have a pair of them. Cool. Now I know and knowing is half the battle.

GI joe!

Tim.

Geez, I must've inhaled too many fumes the day I read your post! Anyway, the rear arms work like a charm. Pinion angle correct, very little deflection under load, etc.

The last two times I took my a-arms in to someone else for reconditioning turned out to be nightmares. I heard so many good stories about how cheap and fast people were getting them done at shops and thought I'd take the easy route too. I haven't done that since. The first time, I went to pick them up and the bill was astronomical. Turns out they decided to do me a favor and bead blast the arms. Never mind they were already blasted and stripped when I dropped them off. And the labor hours were bogus too. Never one to admit defeat prematurely, I took some arms off my '69 vette in to a recommended shop. A week later, one arm was done, the other disassembled and the cross shaft was bent. Both arms had torch damage. I cut my losses and paid what they had into them. Took them home and did them myself (after purchasing a new cross shaft).

Good luck on your search!!