Installing power booster and master cylinder, Bench or pedal Bleed [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Installing power booster and master cylinder, Bench or pedal Bleed


1badss396
Jan 22nd, 08, 6:00 PM
Ok I am ready to install my brake power booster and master cylinder set up on my 69. Any of you all have some suggestions what I should or should not do?

Should I bench bleed the master cylinder before I install?
Or can I install it and pedal bleed it when I need to?
What type of brake fluid should I use?

This is what I am installing so I dont want to mess anything up doing this, I want it to be a one time install. I know the brake fluid will strip paint, am I better off to just install the power booster on the car and then pedal bleed the car when I am ready for my maidien voyage? I dont know how much longer till I finish the car might be in 2 months.
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z238/1badss396/Brake%20Parts/th_f3cb.jpg (http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z238/1badss396/Brake%20Parts/?action=view&current=f3cb.jpg)

sarge065
Jan 22nd, 08, 6:20 PM
Always bench bleed the master cylinder first before installation. If for no other reason than it is more convienent to know that the master cylinder is 100% before installation.
If all of the brake system that will come into contact with brake fluid has been replaced, then start fresh with dot 5. If only portions of the brake system have been replaced, stick with the dot3.
You will still want to pedal bleed/ vacuum bleed or whatever your preference is before you take it on the road.

1badss396
Jan 22nd, 08, 7:12 PM
All the lines are 100% new:yes:

Dave Hopkins
Jan 23rd, 08, 9:43 PM
All the lines are 100% new:yes:
Its not the lines its the rubber parts, he does not want you to switch from DOT 3 to DOT 5 on the same ruber parts. Assuming you have not replaced calipers/wheel cyinders etc nothing wrong with DOT 3.
If you can geet a vacuum setup for bleeding (maybe $30), fill the res, go to the RR wheel (furtherest) and suck until you get fluid, then LR, then RF, then LF. Those vacuum bleaders are a real time savor. To protect paint, just soak a few towels in water, if any brake fluid gets on the paint whipe it immediatly, if any gets on the towel just move the towel so it can't soak thru to paint

wildman926
Jan 24th, 08, 9:48 AM
To help with bleeding the system, you can start out by just gravity bleeding the brakes. Do only one wheel at a time, in sequence as if you are manually bleeding them. Just open the bleeder valve and let gravity do the work for you. It won't take long at all.