Hi guys,
Broke a roller rocker the other day and because my engine is new from the oil pan to the breather except for the rockers we salvaged from the cars last engine, I'm going to replace the entire set. Thinking about using Pro Magnum Roller Rockers (Comp. Cams) Any one had a bad experence with these? Anything better on the market? Oh yea, the broken ones had no markings or name. Thought that was a bit odd.

Thank in advance for any imput.

Brian

A lot of the aluminum rockers are not branded. My Harland Sharps have no markings. I have Pro Magnum 1.6's on my bracket car. They seem like an excellent rocker. Something odd though, the HS 1.5's on the exhaust took .100" shorter than stock pushrods to set up right, but the Pro Mag 1.6's needed .100" longer than stock to set up properly. If this is because the PMs are a different ratio or because the rockers are different brands or both, I don't know.

I'm running the Pro Mag's on my street 468, so far so good (only 1000 miles). They seem like nice pieces.

Crane Golds graemlins/thumbsup.gif :D

I love my Crower Stainless Steel "Enduro" roller rockers. graemlins/hurray.gif

If $ are no object steel ones are the way to go IMHO. I have 16K on my Crane Energizers so far with no signs of undue wear. They were only $170 at the time ( 4 years ago).

BTW, IMHO you run rollers, you buy the screen kit and epoxy screens in the oil drainbacks just so no roller bearings can ever make it down there! CHeap insurance against a low probability but high cost failure.

I run Harland sharps very nice rockers,and I agree with the screen kit,no sense in ruining a whole engine if you do have failure.

Anyone use Scorpions?

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scorpionrockers.html

I've heard good things about them from some 5.0 Ford guys.

I run the Trickflow rockers. They came combo at 1.5/1.6. They also say they are good for centerbolt valve covers and they are clearanced for large springs and retainers. P.S. these are for small blocks.

Good LUck
maTt

Thanks for all the good info.

Brian

I used Harland Sharps for two seasons, but they flat wore out my guides. They didn't sit on the valves good at all no matter what I would have done. I checked the contact and it's like the rockers put more stress on one side of the valve never mind the pushrod length problem I was dealing with. When I freshened up the engine last winter and put in the new solid roller, I went with Crane Golds. They fixed the geometry problems by themselves. No guide problems yet.

The Crane golds might not wear your guides but i have a friend with a heavy spring big block who broke one and didn't have the screens in the valley above the cam. One of the "needle bearings" out of the broken roller rocker got down into his pan and locked up his oil pump which then broke the oil pump drive and overheated a rod bearing and rod before he could get it shut down. He now uses T&D shaft rockers. I think the Crower & Comp stainless steel rockers are good but i would second using the epoxied in screens.

I have seen the Crane golds braek when used on solid roller cams. We replaced them with Harland Sharps and the problem went away. 67 Super Sport, you should have sent them back to Harland Sharp, if the geometry was off they should have replaced them.

where can you buy the screen kit? I should think about doing this

Crower stainless on my motor, they're very quiet operating as well as being streamlined, top of the line peices.

Originally posted by Motor Martyr:
Crower stainless on my motor, they're very quiet operating as well as being streamlined, top of the line peices.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif