UD BBC Solid Roller 285/295 110lsa hand written tag says 28 lash one of last shipments my engine builder got from UD later ordered same cam under Lunati lash typed tag said 26 ... no question same cam but just wondering if when Harold got new tags printed knew cam worked better lashed alitle tighter.or just a typo ... builder away and want to start up engine soon .either way will be OK for start up but just curious if anyone has any input on this .Gene maybe

Originally posted by CDN SS:
UD BBC Solid Roller 285/295 110lsa hand written tag says 28 lash one of last shipments my engine builder got from UD later ordered same cam under Lunati lash typed tag said 26 ... no question same cam but just wondering if when Harold got new tags printed knew cam worked better lashed alitle tighter.or just a typo ... builder away and want to start up engine soon .either way will be OK for start up but just curious if anyone has any input on this .Gene maybe Hi Bill,
Looks like you are rollin along with your project ;)
Don't know the exact lash for that cam but I'd use the .028 for breakin & a few miles anyway, it will make the cam a bit smaller.
The difference between .026 & .028 isn't anything to get real excited about until you are ready to play with lash as a tuning issue.

Set them at .024 cold & get the engine broke in good.
Recheck them hot but they should be real close.
==
===Edit for Harold :D
Recheck them hot but they should be real close to what they should be or .028"

Thanks Mike , Ok so for start up etcetra err on the tight side .....Thanks
... I understand the impact of loose / tight lash on power curve just was curious if any one had scienced out this particular cam ...
.... yes motor all ready to go ( waiting on headers) just waiting my turn on Dyno want it to be a day when my engine builder can be there ..... and in this part of the world it's seeding time for farmers and my builder is a big farmer ........Millar Racing Engines started out as a hobby biz that has got out of control ....
will be on a new Dyno that as I understand it he can program load conditions and simulate track conditions ....he is more circle track than drag race guy .forgot Dyno brand ....any dyno I familar with up here is just a basic run it and measure it type .not sure if this type of dyno is a big deal or not

BTW hopefully the same day we will run another of his customers street motor similar to mine 454.060 same cam and compression etc but Millar big valve 781's actually the set he did for me and took back when I bot the Brodix BBo's from you,I may have told you he bot a set for himself to check ou tI think he a has sols afew sets since

Anyway will not be an exact comparison but will be interesting to see the differences if any

Harold and I squwaked about lashing my cam down tight for increased rpm and lowered DCR anyway, so I broke it in at .022 ( .018 cold on my mill).

( went to .025 - too much bottom, smoking the tires/slicks on powershifts bad, went back to .022-.023.)

I should lash it at .026 just for a smoke show!

Tight is easier on the valvetrain Bill. Imagine that applies to a roller as well. Too tight heats up the EX valve though.

FIRE IT UP!

Thanks Gene , some of this stuff coming back to me but appreciate the input ...will do anyday now

Bill,
The .024 is because you have aluminum heads.
They will be about .028 cold
If you want .026 go to .022 cold ;)

Gotcha ..thanks

Bill, where did you source that awesome cold air intake.

GM !!! Would you believe all CDN built 66 SS cars came with them ;)

Thought not .... actually rare GM over the counter performance part from the mid to late sixties ....... I was very fortunate to find this NOS 66/67 version(first time it has ever been installed is in that picture ) GM Cowl Plenum Air Cleaner ........ you can buy a very good repo for 1700.00

EXSQUEEZE ME.... 17 HUNDRED DOLLARS....

:eek:

Ok the feeling has come back into my wallet... Do you have PN#'s for the assembly??

Wolfy, Proofread your statement about three posts back as the two statements seem to contradict each other. It's been a long time since i set valves but it seemed they always had more clearance when hot.

Sorry Wolfy, About six posts back. Now who is making mistakes?

Originally posted by Harold Sutton:
Sorry Wolfy, About six posts back. Now who is making mistakes? =
Hi Harold.
A little confusing but what I was saying is they will be close to what they should be
.024 cold = .028 hot ;)
I'll go change it for you

Only with alum heads/iron block do they grow, with iron/iron, I BELIEVE they shrink a freckle ( .001-.002") when hot.

With my new 4.630" X 3.76" aluminum Donovan block, I donnow!? smile.gif

Yeah, I wish! My lottery dream! 505 ci the RIGHT way! You guys keep building your torque motors, I like my hp motors. Ya just have to gear them right!

Shoot - now ya'll have got me confused.

I thought the clearences would tighten up as the engine warmed up, not the other way around.

Cam card for my solid says adjust 'em hot, IN's = 20, EX's = 22. I just did mine last night, cold, and set them at IN/22 and EX/24. Should I have gone the other way - IN/18 and EX/20 on an iron head BB?

Dan

Add me to the confused list.....My lunati cam card calls for .022 and .024. Whats the correct setting cold? (iron heads)

Mike, Wolfplace, info is correct i know what he means. .......checked them last night cold and they were lashed at .22 so my builder thinks the same way ......

So......... if the cam card says .022 and .024, the COLD setting would be .018 and .020 ?

With iron heads and iron block,I have always set them .002 over what the hot lash should be.With aluminum heads and iron block .002 under hot lash setting.Aluminum heads and block .004 under hot lash.These are the settings performance books call for.I checked mine hot just to be sure,now I can adjust them cold with peace of mind,of course it's only a small piece of mind! tongue.gif

Originally posted by 70BB:
So......... if the cam card says .022 and .024, the COLD setting would be .018 and .020 ? =
Sorry for the confusion, I should have said with aluminium heads graemlins/clonk.gif

JRS70LS5 is correct.

Bill has aluminium heads.

Adj cast .002 loose & aluminium .004 tight cold

Originally posted by 427L88:
Only with alum heads/iron block do they grow, with iron/iron, I BELIEVE they shrink a freckle ( .001-.002") when hot.

With my new 4.630" X 3.76" aluminum Donovan block, I donnow!? smile.gif

Yeah, I wish! My lottery dream! 505 ci the RIGHT way! You guys keep building your torque motors, I like my hp motors. Ya just have to gear them right! =
About .010 tight will work. ;)

Just got done floggin an 18 deg all aluminium little devil for a couple of days on the dyno & it ended up .008 different cold to hot.
And if you like RPM,, you would love this little sucker
The neighbors did :D

Hi Bill, what is the "projected" hp and torque for that baby. It does look great graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'm not really sure I know what what the desktop dyno says but I gonna wait til I start it up on the dyno and sort it out .... the problem is up until now we have only had 1 engine dyno here .some say not that accurate .who knows , now have new one in town with good operator .......will it be too optomistic to attract new biz ? anyway I will be happy if it runs nice and I get the carb sorted out .......pbly more power than I need anyway ......has anyone from your part of the world heard how Ryan doing in memphis??

Originally posted by Wolfplace:
And if you like RPM,, you would love this little sucker
The neighbors did :D Mr. Lewis, like, did you say like? No Sir, not at all. LOVE. I mean it. I keep thinking this 496 will be like a frigid beauty queen after the hot and spirited 'lil L88.

Ryan in Memphis?

Yes, he is.

427L88, I believe your right. Seems to me mine were tighter hot by about .002. Boy is my memory going to s**t as i get old. I had an iron headed 396-375 Chevelle with a ZL-1 cam. Best of 11.58 @ 117.64 with 850 CFM holley four barrel carb.

Now I'm confused......
My cams are designed so that there is a wide range of OK valve lash. If a card calls for .026" HOT, anywhere from .016"-.018" to .030" is OK and usable for at least one year.
I normally set the valves .004" tighter when the engine is cold, as a 'fail-safe', then adjust them to the desired point after the engine warms up.
THEN after running it a little on the track, I adjust them to where I want---Less bottom end and more top-end, I go tighter, at least .004"-.006". More bottom-end and less top end, I go .004" looser. If I find the car runs the best .006" to .008" looser than recommended, I think about getting the next cam smaller, IF the fuel system is OK. If the car gains top-end when the lash is looser, you have a fuel-supply problem.

UDHarold