What to do about sand through on base/clear paint [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: What to do about sand through on base/clear paint


Dcairns560
Jan 21st, 08, 10:03 PM
My friend painted my 70 using an Omni base/clear system this past October. I have been working on wetsanding with 2000 paper here and there as I get time. So far I have gotten all of the trunk area, all of the roof done and most of the drivers quarter. Everything has gone well until I got to an area low down on the quarter. There are a couple spots where the paint looks transparent and I think I can see the primer coming through. I am not sure if the base coat wasnt sprayed thick enough in this area or if I have sanded through the clear and into the base. How do I go about repairing this? I am hoping since it is a small area (about 12" x 12") that we can just respray this area. Will that work or do I have to do the whole panel over? Do I have to reprime this area or can I just sand down to base and then respray the base coat and then more clear?

Any advice on how to procede would be great!

Bowtie70ss
Jan 21st, 08, 10:15 PM
Do you have a vinyl top? I hope so...if not you'll need some professional assistance. I am a novice painter and I have heard there are ways to blend clear, but if not you'd have to repaint the area then clear the quarter, roof and other quarter since there are no paint breaks anywhere else. Notice how on late model cars how they have visible panel seams? Cuts down on the labor to replace the panel and also makes for a paint/clear break so you don't have to re shoot half of the car.

Bunz-T
Jan 21st, 08, 10:34 PM
Built a 62 SS Impala sometime back and had a serious reaction in the middle of a front fender. It brought primer up close to the top and when sanded it showed. My man enlarged the area somewhat, sanded, resprayed base and clear with an airbrush , sanded and buffed. It turned out great. If you have some of the original paint and clear, do not underestimate what the talented can do, espcially low on a quarter.

copoman69
Jan 21st, 08, 10:43 PM
you answer your own question, just tape off all round the area , then mist.... hold the gun twice as far away , get your painter to fix should be a piece of cake for him, i burned though my clear coat when i drop the buffer it was lock on , after i cried for many hours my painter fix it and you cant tell , took him all but five min,

Dcairns560
Jan 21st, 08, 11:12 PM
Thats what I was hoping, that I can just mask off the area and just redo that spot. I am still not clear if I will have to reprime it or if I just sand, spray base, and then clear. Yes, I do have some base leftover and I can buy a quart of clear.

Dave Birdwell
Jan 21st, 08, 11:26 PM
DO NOT MASK OFF THE AREA CLOSE TO THE REPAIR. You WILL leave a line for sure. You must sand back a larger area to do the repair in, you're going to buff it anyway. Go out about 18 inches and then mask off where you stopped sanding. Stay in an area of about 9 to 12 inches, and use a blender made for the clear. Be very careful, the blender is thin and will make the clear want to run.
Yes, you can just sand, base and reclear. After the clear has dried, you'll have to be careful how smooth you try to sand the blend, or yo will peel it back and leave a noticeable line.

67AirRag
Jan 22nd, 08, 9:03 AM
It also depends how picky you are. The "blend" method for clear is essentially a VERY strong solvent which softens the surface for the new coat of clear to adhere to.

These "blended" areas can often be detected by very sharp paint critics. And occasionally the blend will reappear some time later as the solvents completely evaporate.

If it is a real show quality job, it is best to re-clear an entire panel.

Don't get me wrong... production jobs use it all the time.

Dave Birdwell
Jan 22nd, 08, 7:52 PM
It also depends how picky you are. The "blend" method for clear is essentially a VERY strong solvent which softens the surface for the new coat of clear to adhere to.

These "blended" areas can often be detected by very sharp paint critics. And occasionally the blend will reappear some time later as the solvents completely evaporate.

If it is a real show quality job, it is best to re-clear an entire panel.

Don't get me wrong... production jobs use it all the time.

This is very true. Unfortunately, being a rear quarter panel, you'd have to clear the roof and the other quarter as well. Lots of more material and work, but might be easier for the novice.

Dcairns560
Jan 23rd, 08, 4:06 PM
This certainly isnt a show car, I just want it to look good enough to go to the local cruise. Will I need to buy the same type of clear that I used for the whole car? I have heard of something called "quick clear" that is for spot repairs, is that what I need? Thanks again for all the replies!

LittleBro72
Jan 26th, 08, 3:26 PM
I would use the same clear... If you go and use another kind of clear you could run into another problem.