Using a borrowed Lincoln Weld Pak 100 to weld a frame brace in that goes across the frame, from the backside of one shock tower to the other but a few inches back/down so I can butt it up against the frame also after trimming some of that "wing" out of it. . Using rectangular tubing, its not real thick. have some real thick stuff but was afraid this little thing wouldnt be able to handle it.

When youre welding how close are you holding the tip to the metal and are you holding it straight on or at a slight angle?

I got a tiny amount done which is Ok (after finding out the hard way where the "TOO HIGH heat setting was), and then the wire broke off in the sheath-It was about toast anyway. Want to make sure these welds hold as a FP and filter will be mounted to them. Its been many years, any tips are appreciated.

BTW, the auto darkening helmet is awesome, you can actually see what you are doing.

I usually leave 1/4"-3/8" or so of stick out, try to keep it as short as possible.

Heres a good link for torch positioning,


http://millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/MIG_tips/

Ok, how are you guys getting your welds looking like a roll of nickels with flux welding? Used the slag tool to knock it off and nothings coming off. :confused:

Are you welding with Argon gas or not?

No, its the flux core wire. (.035)It doesnt belong to me so I replaced the spool with what it came with.

Overlaping "C"s leave a nice stich

The overlapping stack of dimes look comes from tig, not mig. You can achieve it with a mig welder, but it wont be as nice. Some people just place consecutive tacks one after another to get that look, but unless your welding body panels or something thats thin then thats wrong!. The metal never heats up, so your not really getting full penetration.

When/if I mig weld, I usually just go side to side, works well for me.

Depending on what I'm welding, I either go side to side or small circles, but I think it's going to be tough to have a really nice looking weld with flux core....

Thanks for the tips, got it about as good as I think I can. Rear frame area is strong as an ox now, woohoo!! NO more flex, period.

Have a question...After welding constantly for about 15 min it started to seem a little, ...weak, is all I can say like it wasnt getting enough heat. Noticed after awhile it acted like it was feeding wire to fast where it didnt before, nothing on the controls was touched. Maybe worked too hard??

ESAB has a low carbon mig wire Spoolarc 86 (ER70S-6). It is soft and easier to grind flush when done.

Oh man dont let Rob (rubadub) see this thread, he will have to write you a book how its done:D

Ron, Welders have different "Duty Cycles" less expensive welders can only go so long, Ergo "Duty Cycles" before they need the rest :yes:They are measured in a % rating.

The other thing to watch for is your feed cable. They don't like to have sharp
bends in them. Try to have your working cable as straight as possible.

All ways test your feed speed and heat range on some old scrape metal first.
Some guys like to push there welds, others like to pull there welds. Try both
and see what works best for you. If you don't have some Mig paste, spray
alittle WD-40 on your welding tip from time to time to keep the nozzle clean.

Watch were your spater goes. Windows..etc..just don't like it...
Above all have fun...don't flash your self...lol...:thumbsup:

Thanks, the duty cycle thing makes sense...Welds arent super pretty but will do and are strong . Gotta shorten the exhaust which I did so it fits the collector bolts up but it hits the crossmember so Ill need a bent piece.Body is about ready to put on. Got the control arm braces from Edelbrock, they look a lot beefier than the pic, flanges look like 1/4".
Thanks for the tips. :beers:

Thanks, the duty cycle thing makes sense...Welds arent super pretty but will do and are strong . Gotta shorten the exhaust which I did so it fits the collector bolts up but it hits the crossmember so Ill need a bent piece.Body is about ready to put on. Got the control arm braces from Edelbrock, they look a lot beefier than the pic, flanges look like 1/4".

I can say one thing when I do get around to buying one it will have gas so hopefully things look cleaner.
Thanks for the tips. :beers: