I finally get everything I need and get all the grinding and clearancing done that I need to do, mount the right axle,get it all gooped up,bolted up,torqued down the c clip eliminators and go to slide the rotor on and it won't clear the axle hub, its too darn big,the axle hub that is. I might try the parts store tomorrow and see if they have a similar rotor with a bigger hub to clear the axle. I am about ready to say pee on it all and call Moser,Currie,Toms to see who will make me the best deal on a 12 bolt,4.10's and a spool,complete with brakes and just swap them out. In case I do the latter, who has the best price on a complete rearend,drum to drum? graemlins/angry.gif
I figure I could get new backing plates,drums and all the internal parts,but I would still have the c clip eliminators,which I'm not to fond of for street use.

How much too big? Have the axles turned down a bit. Easy job for someone with a lathe.

The axle hub could be turned down, hate to do that to new axles, I'm thinking I'll order drum brakes tomorrow, less drag anyway. www.tomsdifferential.com (http://www.tomsdifferential.com) has pretty good price on them. C Clip eliminators have been a pain in the arse.

Bob,
First I'll commit treason and tell you if you do order a bolt in rear, I'd go 9".
Cheaper long term.

I dunno who's cheapest, but usually good axles will be turned down for discs if they are spec'd that way. Some are made that way anyway.

What kind of brake system is it?

If it is based on a GM T/A or Caddy setup, take the rotors in and have them chucked up like a drum, turn some material off the inside. Obviously use your better judgement as to how much here.

Another reason to use the Ford is the Ford housing ends, although any aftermarket rear will usualyl have these.

If you could find a shop with an "on-car brake lathe" you could use this to turn the axles down.

Lotsa fun.

After checking into this subject for my 625 HP + nitrous 491 I'm building, I'm going with a Strange 60. Right or wrong, I'm going with a spool also. Car is driven 10 miles to the track and maybe to work once a week 10 miles.

I want no question of durability. Choice was between a detroit locker and spool and after checking I'm going spool.

Obviously a fair weather car as it has DOT slicks anyhow.

Plan $1800-$2000 minimum unless you have an inside track.

I was going to build up my 8.5" 10 bolt, but I couldn't be sure if it would live and for the $1000 or so it would cost it is not worth it. I can sell it for a bit.

The guy at Moser was pretty knowledgable when I called him also.

Everyone sells new 9", 12 bolt and 60 housing rears now.

when i ordered my moser axles i had them turned down for the z28 roters at no extra charge.just get them turned downwhat i would do

I feel for you. I just got my set of moser axles with c-clip eliminators and for whatever reason they came with 7/16 short car studs. ughhh!!!! I specified 5/8 studs.

I ordered new drum brakes today, supposed to be a little less drag than discs anyway, going to try them along with the C clip eliminators for a while, see if they hold up or not,if they don't I'll be looking at a complete new rearend with 4.10's and a spool. Jake, that would be treason in my book, gotta stay chevrolet graemlins/thumbsup.gif :D

doug, that is what I would do too. The Dana 60 is one mega tough diff. It does suck to set up, but next time I do a dana diff I will use the slide on bearings. If anyone is wondering what I'm talking about, the shims for backlash are behind the carrier bearings, so the bearings must be pressed on and removed to set the backlash correctly unless you use slide on bearings.

some of the newer dana 60 castings have screw adjusters like a ford nine inch-no more shims.

When I put the rear discs on the Firebird, the rotors wouldn't clear the axle flanges either. Since the car has an Eaton posi in it, I started it up, put it in 1st gear, and let it idle on the jackstands while I went at the axle flange edges with my 4 1/2" grinder with a 60 grit flap disc. Took about 5 minutes each to clearance. FWIW, the flanges came out more evenly round than when I started.