djshakes
Feb 2nd, 05, 8:48 PM
Here is my set up. I have a 65 with a 283. I switched the carb and manifold to an edlebroch High performance set up. HEI system. When the car gets around 190 it boogs when I jump on it. I advanced the timing about 6 or 8 degrees. Someone told me that when running advanced you should turn the two screws front facing on the carb out a half a turn. I am assuming this adjusts the amount of fuel air mixture. I did so and it seemed to boog more. However, the car was still warm. What is the key to adjusting those screws? How many turns out on each from a completely tightened position?
I'm not familiar with Edelbrock carbs, but, I do know it's typical to just turn them 1 1/2 turns out. When you adjusted them, you most likely turned them out too much hence it bogging more. Good luck and tell us more specs so that others can help pin point your problem.
RatONaStick
Feb 2nd, 05, 9:49 PM
any idea on your total timing? you will need a timing tape installed or a dial back timing light to check the total.
if not, what is your current initial timing set at?
ive noticed that stock hei's seem to have very short advance curves. to get 38 degrees total out of the hei in my biscayne i have to set initial at something like 25 degrees. thats only 13 degrees of mechanical advance, ive read that it should have 20 degrees mechanical but mine doesnt, the hei in my dad camaro is the same way.
if you dont check the total you will probably want to keep advancing the timing until you hit some detonation and then back off the timing until it quits.
i think if you get the timing right you will find that your bog will go away graemlins/thumbsup.gif
djshakes
Feb 2nd, 05, 9:53 PM
I had some work done on the distributor not to long ago. He set the timing about 2 degrees advanced. I advanced it an additional 4 to 6 degrees. When the car idles and I check the timing, it is about 4 notches above TDC. 8 degrees advanced I am assuming.
RatONaStick
Feb 2nd, 05, 11:24 PM
that is no where near enough, even with the full 20 degrees mechanical advance 8 degrees initial would equal 28 degrees total timing.
you need to shoot for around 36-38 degrees total, with 20 degrees mechanical advance 16 initial would get you 36 total.
but like i said ive seen as little as 13 degrees mechanical in some hei's so you may have to raise your initial timing to get the 36-38 total you want. that is unless you alter the mechanical advance curve, this is where a timing tape or a dial back timing light comes in handy.
rocker
Feb 3rd, 05, 2:13 AM
I'm running a 600 edlebrock on my 307 and also had a real bog, i adjusted both screws out 1 1/2 turns and the bog was gone also look at the pump shot rod there are 3 slots, comes from factory in the middle position for a quicker response move the rod to the bottom hole i think , i'll have to double check tomorrow
djshakes
Feb 3rd, 05, 1:39 PM
I think my engine timing scale (plate with little lines) only goes up to 12 degrees. So advance it further than that? Okay. Remember, I am doing the basic timing check. Use the timing light, point it at the fly wheel and measure it based on the lines. The distributor curving and degrees is language I am not familiar with.
djshakes
Feb 3rd, 05, 4:07 PM
I just moved the pump shot rod to the bottom hole. However, I am at work so I haven't had a chance to drive it.