1967 El Camino 327/700r4 A/C

Driving home the other night the E.C. died driving down the street. Everything shut off, lights included.

The only electrical item that works is the horn. Nothing else. Turn the key to accesorie...nothing. Turn the key to on/start...nothing.

I'm sure theres a short, but could the regulator be out? Or, is there any other regulator/fuse, anything I am missing?

I have very little electrical experience. I have installed a stereo/speakers, and installed other little items, but I have virtually no experience with electrical on my 67.

Any help/input is appreciated.

Sounds like the main fuse link. I'm not 100% on a 67 but is should be located at or near the voltage regulator.

Sounds like the main fuse link. I'm not 100% on a 67 but is should be located at or near the voltage regulator.

There is one from the battery to junction block, and one on the horn relay.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/Original_Chevy_system.jpg

Replaced both fusible links, and nothing has changed. The only thing working is the horn.

I have no voltage regulator in my E.C. It looks as the previous owner installed a fuse link on the firewall. There are 2 fuses there, and they are both fine.

Could there be a relay that has failed?

is there power to any of the fuses at the fuse block under the dash??

There is no power to anything at the fuse block under the dash/firewall.

Are you running an HEI on the EC? If so, check the ignition module in the distributor. Had this happen on a 77 Camaro in the past.
Frank

I have a petronix conversion in my distributor that converted the old system into a "points-less" system, along with a petronix coil that is mounted off of the intake manifold itself.

Could the coil, or distributor be damaged?

Do you have a DMM (voltmeter)? My guess is that the main feed in the firewall bulkhead connection has gone bad. (which is somewhat common on 67 and earlier GM's) First double check to see if there is any power at dash, with your meter check the large reds for power, they are at the headlight switch, IGN switch and fuse box. If no power check firewall bulkhead connection. Look at the large red wire (10g) going into the firewall bulkhead connector, check for any signs of burning, melting (you will have to look closely)

I'm going to try that tomorrow Greg as I just received this message.

I do have a voltmeter, and I will start as soon as possible.

Before the E.C. died, I did smell something burning (more than likely plastic from wire, or?) in the cab about 5 minutes or so before everything went dead.

I'll message tomorrow as soon as I am done checking.

I had little time to work on my E.C. today. I was able to use a test light and find out that there is juice going to the starter. There is juice going into what is/was the amp gauge in the dash. There is juice to that. Other than that, there is no juice to nothing on the block.

I was tempted to take the 2 screws off the fuse block to inspect, but I didn't want to open up another can of worms.

Any suggestions, comments toward a little more insight on a dim situation?

Hi! Heres a thought put a jumper across the amp gauge that is in line with your power if that opens you wont get power to the other side of it. It reads current flow if it opens you wont get power to the other side that feeds the other circuits? I would be careful because the insulating materal on the terminal could have shorted burning it open. You could use a old lamp socket between the two leads(w/a bulb in it if the bulb lights up you have a short to ground on the side of the lead thats not hot.Us the bulb so you dont burn any thing else up if it is a short! O ya take the gauge out of the circuit and just use the wires.

Hi! Heres a thought put a jumper across the amp gauge that is in line with your power if that opens you wont get power to the other side of it. It reads current flow if it opens you wont get power to the other side that feeds the other circuits? I would be careful because the insulating materal on the terminal could have shorted burning it open. You could use a old lamp socket between the two leads(w/a bulb in it if the bulb lights up you have a short to ground on the side of the lead thats not hot.Us the bulb so you dont burn any thing else up if it is a short! O ya take the gauge out of the circuit and just use the wires.

Does a 67 use a true full current amp guage or a shunt voltmeter like later years do? I don't know what year they switched design.

Hi! Heres a thought put a jumper across the amp gauge that is in line with your power if that opens you wont get power to the other side of it.
The amp gauge has nothing to do with his problem, it has its own wiring w/fusible links, and bypasses the main wiring.

Does a 67 use a true full current amp guage or a shunt voltmeter like later years do? I don't know what year they switched design. A shunt voltmeter like later years.

Any suggestions, comments toward a little more insight on a dim situation?

Probe the large red going from the horn relay buss bar to the firewall bulkhead and check for power. If it has power, your problem is at the bulkhead connector, if it doesn't have power, the fusible link is blown.

Greg, I replaced the fusible links anyway. But, I did follow the large red wire from the battery, to horn relay, from horn relay, to firewall and there is juice up to there. I haven't taken the fuse block apart.

I see that its just 2 screws that hold in the fuse block (from in the cab). If I unscrew these 2 screws, will this be a easy reinstall, or will things be flying apart so that I will not be able to reinstall (that is if things are aren't already melted in there)?

Greg, I replaced the fusible links anyway. But, I did follow the large red wire from the battery, to horn relay, from horn relay, to firewall and there is juice up to there. I haven't taken the fuse block apart.

I see that its just 2 screws that hold in the fuse block (from in the cab). If I unscrew these 2 screws, will this be a easy reinstall, or will things be flying apart so that I will not be able to reinstall (that is if things are aren't already melted in there)?

I replaced the fusible links. But, I did follow the large red wire from the battery, to horn relay, from horn relay, to firewall and there is juice up to there. I haven't taken the fuse block apart.

I see that its just 2 screws that hold in the fuse block (from in the cab). If I unscrew these 2 screws, will this be a easy reinstall, or will things be flying apart so that I will not be able to reinstall (that is if things are aren't already melted in there)?

I had a very similar problem. The bulkhead and the fuse box had melted together causing a bad connection. The bulk head and the fuse box are only 2 parts. Nothing will fall out. It is really easy to inspect. I'm now faced with replacing my wiring harness. I'm probably going to go with a AAW upgrade kit and replace everything. I want to make the car my daily driver so making it reliable is important. Let us know what happened and how you end up fixing it. I'm curious.

It's been a while, but I haven't forgot to login with this mini journal of sorts to my little dilema, but I have finally broke down to take care of it.

I ended up getting a uhaul trailer and loaded the E.C. onto it to transport it to a local electrical mechanic. After an hour I got a call saying that my E.C. was ready. I went to pick up my E.C. and was told that the problem was that since I have the super sport gauges, and I have an external amp/volt gauge, that were coinciding, and ultimately not letting the car function. The mechani cut out the 2 wires that were going to the nonfunctioning gauge on the console and that was that! It was $80 well spent!

No rewiring, and nothing melted!

I hope that this will help someone in the future.

Thanks for the replys, and if anyone has questions please feel free to message me.