Last time I dynoed, I put down very disappointing numbers. 300hp and 310 or so ft-lbs.

Since then I have ditched the 200-4R for a Tremec 3550, ditched the 12 bolt for a Moser 9", put on dual electric (Windstar) fans, and gone from a 750 (3310) to an 800DP.

Anyway, it put down 362hp and 397 ft/lbs at the wheels.


It only took 4 pulls to get it dialed in right. The out ox the box 70/80 jetting was perfect! At WOT mixture was perfect. Nice and flat at 13:1.
Here's the combo.

383 SB
SCAT 3.75" 9000 series crank,
forged GM 5.7" rods
forged Federal Mogul flattops (10.77 compression)
AFR 195's
Comp XE284 .507 .510, 240* 246* @.050 110LSA
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold
Holley 800 - milled choke horn
1-5/8 primiary headers.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Matt_Leuck/Dyno4small.JPG

:D :D :D

This weekend I'm going to bolt on my 28-10.50 ET Drags and go to the track.
Anyone want to take a guess at what it will run?


-Matt

good job! you will have much fun! I predict a 12.92 @ 104.6 mph.

Great to see the new numbers. Really nice flat torque curve. She'll pull like stink from 3000 - 6000. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

As for track estimates. It'll depend on how hard you launch, how hard you wanna slam the gears, etc. I can see some high 12s without powershifting or risking the drivetrain. Surely a nice MPH of 107-110 is there. Good luck.

Congratulations Matt!! Nice numbers.

I'm going to guess 7.50@92 in the 1/8th. It will go faster if you can really stick it out of the hole.

Going to Denton?

I built it to get beat up, so I have no problem launching as high as it takes to get a good 60'.
The MSD 6AL box is going in tomorrow, so I will have a rev limiter.

Jason, yes, I will be going to Denton.
Do you know if they are running during the day on Saturday?


-Matt

Matt,way to go! your car has come a long ways since that cold rainy day dynoing at LG's a few years ago.
Where's Real Performance at? How much did they charge?

Originally posted by turbodave:
Matt, your car has come a long ways since that cold rainy day dynoing at LG's a few years ago.
Where's Real Performance at? How much did they charge? Dave... It sure has hasnt it...
Man, I can still remember when this car could only put down 198hp :eek:

RPM is in Lewisville.
Keith, the big dog there (his son owns the shop), used to be at Speedworks. The story I got straight from Keith's mouth is that Speedworks is going down (another story, another time smile.gif ). So RPM has picked up Speedworks' business, plus their own. RPM has made quite a name for itself since it opened. I would say they are one of the best shops in the area.
And i paid $100 for unlimited pulls/tuning/etc for an hour.


-Matt

so is RPM in Speedworks old place now?

No RPM is somewhat near Main and 121 in Lewisville.
http://real-performance-motorsports.com/

-Matt

Nice numbers. With a 18% drop it calculates to around 445hp engine dyno hp. My 70 made 440hp on the engine dyno. That should be good for low 12s@112. If it hooks it may get into the 11s. ETs for stick shift cars are hard to predict as they tend to be more tricky to drive than an auto(for me anyway), but they do mph well. Good luck, let us know how you did.

Before I make my ET guess,......what rear gears, what kind of tires and lastly, have you ever raced a stick car before?

wonder what that thing would do with some 1 3/4" headers? my best friend has a similar motor with about the only diffeence being Pro 1 heads and it made a little more power than that. but he had 1 3/4" headers too. his car runs 7.63 @ 91 with 3.73 gears and a tight convertor in the 1/8mi. high 11's 1/4mi.
i do have a question about the carb. with the 70/80 jetting what powervalve do you run in the front? did you check it to see what it has? i'm having a little trouble with the idle on my 406 which has same cam you have. i don't have much vacuum in gear at idle. TIA.
oh yeah.... i'm gonna say 12.00-11.90 depending on how well you can get it out of the hole. ;)

I have had a few people mention 1-3/4 headers to me in the past day or two.
I was thinking about a custom grind solid cam, and maybe a Vic. Jr as the next engine mods. But a lot of people have said headers.
What do you think would benefit me most?

Jim, I am running 3.90's in the rear, but with a 3.27 first gear in the Tremec. It will also be on 28x10.50 ET Drags.
I have never run a stick car at the track though, so we will see what happens.


M71, I misspoke in my earlier post. My best pull was done with the stock Holley jetting which was 71/85.
However, I noticed a lack of drivability though. If you look at the A/F chart, you can see that running on just the primary side, and A/F was WAY lean... like 17:1-18:1. Well this made for lots of stuttering and jumpiness when just cruising down the road.

Today, I rejetted it. I went up 4 on the front and down 4 on the back (75/81). Going up 4 on the primary side really helped with the cruising. I drove it today and it had none of the stumbling/hesitation that it did, and going down 4 on the back should keep that perfect 13:1 WOT ratio.
Now I just need to work with the accelerator pumps to get it perfect.


-Matt

i have an 800dp on mine too, the carb is slightly used but the guy told me that it had the stock jets in it, which when i removed the bowls i found were 71/85. i could tell that the front bowl had been off before as it had a no-stick gasket on it, but i was sure the front jets weren't stock, but i guess since your's had the same jetting then i guess he was telling me the truth. i have 73/83 in it now, but with a 6.5 pv i think it's opening at idle in gear, seems to be ok out of gear though. i'm either going to put a 2.5 pv in it or just block it off and up the primary jets. just curious as to what you had in your's for a pv, although with a manual tranny it probably wouldn't help me out any, i have a th350 with a 10" Coan convertor and the idle drops a few hundred rpm's when i put it in gear.
BTW, what distributor do you have and what is your initial timing set at, or is it locked? i have an old worn out HEI and i think it is alot of my problem combined with the pv that is too high of a rating.
i think you could pick up with the 1 3/4" headers, then upgrade to a solid cam. as far as the vic jr, i'm not sure without the bigger headers and the solid cam in it first that it would do you any good, but you never know until you try.

i wouldnt be to quick to throw away the 15/8 headers just yet ,they may make more hp at top end but they also loose torck on the bottom end in other words you could slow down at the track.ive done this change twice on my cars and on my chevelle i lost 21/2 tenths in the 1/8 mile with the 13/4 headers on my nova i didnt se any time differences

m71, I knew i forgot something earlier.
I am running a 6.5 PV. As far as I can tell, it's working great. I wasnt paying much attention earlier, but I think my idle speed is around 750-800 after doing some tuning earlier.
I dont remember exactly what timing we settled on on the dyno. I'll check it tomorrow and let you know.

JunkYardDog, for as many people that have told me to go with 1-3/4, the same number have also said stay with the 1-5/8.
It's like I'm right in between. I have heard that the AFR heads really like the smaller primary though. With the good exhaust port, they really help the torque curve. If you look at my graph, the curve is nice and flat, and I'd like to keep it that way.
Oh well... I have a while to think about it before i make any decisions.


-Matt

If you can hook, then I guess a 12.4@109
Good luck!! Have fun.

LOW 12's, nice combo.

thats awesome matt!! great rwhp #'s! I will say 12.3@110.

With a 11.75:1 1st gear ratio, you'll be pulling the stick prior to the 60' mark. Cool. That's where you want to be with a stick car IMHO. I'd have to say a bit deeper than 12.4-12.5. 12.25 or better.

Regardless of what it runs, it should be a hoot to drive!!! Thats my big charge anyways, driving it!!!