short rods give outer wall thrust?? and long rods dont need to be notched(grinding rod bolts)?
so what are the benefits of the short and long rod
combos.why doesnt everyone just use a long rod instead of hacking into the backside of the rod.
how much wear can be expected from outer wall thrust?????machinist claims total reliability after grinding on those pretty new arp fasteners,
is there truth to this???pros and cons???

which length rods are you talking about? as far as i know with a 5.7" or longer rod you will most likely have to clearance at least the #2 and #6 rods to clear the block. don't think you have to if you use the std 400 rod.

nevermind my last post, i was thinking cam clearance not block clearance. redface.gif

OK Ovelle (or whatever your name is),
Here is what is required,-----------------IF YOU ARE USING STOCK TYPE 350 (5.7) RODS ON A 400 CRANK (in either a 400 or 350 block).
Because of the increased stroke of a 400 crank, the head of the rod bolt needed additional clearance for the camshaft. THE FACTORY accomplished this added clearance by recessing the bolt head deeper into the big end of the rod. You can quickly see this by comparing a stock 400 rod next to a stock 350 rod. So, when using a stock type 350 rod on a 400 crank (3.75 stroke), you also need this extra clearance. Accompling this added clearance is just TOO EASY by simply grinding the head of the rod bolt, which faces the cam, at about a 45deg angle. ANY machine shop can do this for you as they are doing the other machine work on your engine parts. Personally, I prefer to do these simple kinds of precesses myself BEFORE taking engine parts to the machine shop.
If you use the 350 rods in a 400 block, there is no need to clearance the bottom of the block itself, because all SB400 blocks are notched at the factory. But, if you use 350 OR 400 rods on a 400 crank in a 350 block (to build a 383), then you MUST grind notches in the bottom of the 350 block for rod bolt clearance (350 blocks DO NOT have the notches which are on the bottom of a 400 block). The size of the notch in the bottom of the 350 block can vary for each rod and from block to block. You can test fit and grind each notch as much as is necessary by having your machinist reduce the diameter of an old wrist pin so that it is just a slip fit in the rod. Then install the crank and install each rod/piston (one at a time) in its respective hole, rotate the crank until the rod contacts the bottom of the block and grind a notch that is just big enough for clearance of the rod bolt. About .030 clearance should be plenty, but if you would feel better, then go to about .050 clearance. Understand that if you get carried away grinding the notch, you may end up in the water jacket.

350 block scat stroker 383 crank (3.75 stroke 350 mains)whats the difference between the two rods in aspect to outer wall thrust???that is my main ?
pros and cons???
ovelle sounds like "oh well"
shane