Is there a large difference in power between going .30 and .60 over? A 454 .60 over w/stock crank is a 468?

Im trying to figure out which way to go here, and a good combo to work with, piston and cam selection also. Probably using a stock crank 4.00" This is daily driven and Id like a pretty good ammount of power coming out of this thing. 500HP would be a nice goal :D

Right now im stripping the block and getting ready to have it cleaned and bored, checked for cracks, etc. Lets hope I have a good crank in this thing, would save me some dough$. Well any advice, parts numbers and combos would be super helpful right now. This is a "budget build"

So far I know I want to run full length headers, 750 Edelbrock Double Pumper, probably another air gap manifold, I liked my small block one alot. Probably going to use copper head gaskets, never used them but here they seal alot better.

it all depends on your total combo, weight, tranny, gears,headers,exhaust size,tire size,induction type, distributor, cam, gas octane,how far driven a day and what kind of area will you be driving. i used to commute across sacto 6 days a week and you don't want a max effort in stop and go traffic. if this is your only commute car then go very mild unless your drive is only 5 miles, because if it breaks (and it will) that bike will get a work out.
stay away from the trick stuff, go solid reliable old school and you will be much happier.
start out by describing your daliy drive conditions and let's see what advice we can give you.

10.5-1 max compression,Air Gap and 750DP are good choices,1.75" dynomax coated headers,3" exhaust,3.73's or 4.10's if you don't drive it too far.In your case I think I might go hydraulic roller/hydraulic flat tappet if its more than a weekend warrior. That ought to get you close to 500hp and a low 12 second time slip easy enough.

A 10 to 1 CR., 468 motor with big valve large oval port heads, a 780 Holley, 3310- type carb., on a good dual plane high-rise, a good old CC 282S solid cam and a cheap set of 1.75" four tube long headers through a good free flowing exhaust per D2K should make right at 501hp at 5500rpm and 538t at 4000rpm so should do nicely for a good street motor USING GOOD GAS, imho..

Personally I would drop back to 9.5 to 1 CR., so I would have very fewer worries about using pump gas is all.. Then it would make 489hp and 528t at the same rpm's...

I know this is just a sim. program run, but the motor should do nicely, imho, regardless..

pdq67

rapid, out here in calif the best we can get is 91 octane at the pump and we're paying 2.39 a gallon for that garbage, so 10.5 with iron heads is out of the question and adding racing fuel for a daily commute will be too expense. and 3" exhaust gets loud and hot for a daily commute where you might sit in stop and go traffic for an hour to go 10 miles. thats why he needs to give more info on his drive.

I think I have 2.73 gears right now, whatever was stock in a 71' is what i probably have. Im not sure how to get down there and find out either, which I really need to do. I have 295/50/15's in the rear, auto tranny for now, later down the line I might convert it to a 4 or 5 speed. I have brand new 2 ½" exhaust with an H pipe. The last cam I put in my small block was WAY too mild, everyone said try the 268 comp cam so I did, It performed ok, but sounded lousey smile.gif Id like a nice choppy sounding cam.

But using good old fashioned parts sounds good to me, probably wont break the bank as much that way too. Nothing really fancy, but a sweet kick in the ass you know ;)

Pump gas 91 octane in CA... yeah it sucks and 2.40 or so per gallon, gotta love that...
Great ideas so far, tomorrow the small block is leaving so i'll have room in my garage. Monday I plan on taking the block into the machine shop. So I guess first of all here, what should I bore this thing to?

Don't bore it more than you have to.

But, whoa. Power starts with heads. What do you have?

I thought the more bore and stroke the more power can make. Well maybe with the right components, I need to read alot. Peanut Ports came with my engine, im probably gonna toss em'

i would bore it to just what it needs. i doubt you will feel a difference between .30 or .60 over in primarily a street car. anything can happen and imho keep the wall a little thicker for any possible future rebuilds. mike

Thanks Mike smile.gif Sounds good.
Can someone tell me a little about cams? What exactly happens when the cam has more lift? It would push the lifters, pushrods, and then the valves right?

Its only about 6-7 cubes you'll lose by going to a 4.03 overbore instead of 4.06

4.31 X 4.00 = 467 (468 with a 4.01 stroke crank)

4.28 X 4.00 = 460 (461 w/ 4.01 stroke)

At 460ci, you'd have to make 1.09HP/ci for 500HP
At 467ci, you'd have to make 1.07HP/ci for 500HP

I guess it depends how long you want to keep it, really. If you want to have the same block (might be hard finding another 4bolt 454 for the price you paid) for a few more rebuilds, only bore it as much as you need for it to clean up.

If you see yourself selling the car before you rebuild he engine, then it won't matter to you as much.

Also keep in mind that thicker blocks tend to run cooler from what I've heard. That's never a bad thing.

Is this a daily driver Phil?

Originally posted by pnutkemist:
I thought the more bore and stroke the more power can make. Well maybe with the right components, I need to read alot. Peanut Ports came with my engine, im probably gonna toss em' Right now all you should do with your block is clean it up and check for cracks. If it checks out okay, then go get some crack-free oval port heads with 2.19/1.88 valves. If they have 2.07/1.72 valves, consider changing them.

Only after your heads are ready, then cc the chambers so you can pick the right dome on your pistons, and the cam to go with the combo. Then you can really get moving on the machine work and assembly.

Ken

Phil, I am currently running a 468 with the following in my 70: 71 pick up truck 454 block bored .060 over. L2349.060 TRW pistons. Steel crank. Comp 292H cam. HEI ignition, 32 deg. all in at 2600 rpm's. LS-7 replacement heads,square port (990's ? can't remember the number) 2.19/1.88 valves. Dual plane Power Plus hi-rise intake. Holley 950 dual line double pumper, mechanical secondaries. Headers are 2" primaries, 3" collector going into 3" pipes with H-type crossover. 40 series Flowmasters. Pipes out the back. TCI400 turbo, QuickSilver shifter, 2800 stall converter. 3.73 posi rear end, 28" tall 60 series Dunlop tires. The stall is a little light for this combo but has no problems on the street. The temp always stays at 190 - 195 degrees year round, running at 70 mph or ideling for a long period of time ( stock 4-row radiator and stock water pump). The cam has a very nasty nasty sounding choppy idle (1000 rpm) but smooths out nicely. I am currently running 91 octane with no problems. When you put in some racing fuel and bump the timing up a little this thing gets really ugly ( in a good way ).

I'm not telling you that this the right combo, just what I ended up with. I can't even tell you how much horsepower it makes. I do know that if you take it easy on the gas peddle it has no problem on the street or the highway. I also know that it only takes a very small "blip" on the throttle and you better have plenty of room in front of you. Last time I went out to the track it pulled 1.8 60 ft and 8.0 in the 1/8th on street tires. Left the line at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Running 91 octane. Have not tried it at the track with racing fuel. No point in it as I am traction challenged.

Sorry for the length......hope it helps. Maybe someone can tell you if I am even hitting the 500 horsepower you are looking for. Good luck with your project.

Billy graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hey Phil what shop are you going to use? The bigger the cam is the more gear you need.

Hey that combination of yours " BILLY" sounds like a great and very sensible setup to me although the majority of folks use the Oval port(large)heads as the usual fare .Yea that fairly old CC cam is a real thumper.Their newer designed XE 274H is very similar, except for "dual pattern" configuration.Either one is a great hi-po street /strip setup.

For real street only usage cars(not race cars you drive occasionally on the street)and I would estimate that's 95%(real street usuage cars), that thing of yours should really "haul butt".Based on your 60's I would estimate low 12's to high 11 second 1/4's(112 - 118 mph.That's a fast steet car still, by any normal standards.

It's claimed the rec. ports lose torque but in a traction inhibited car it's really not an issue.I bet your car gets the "R"s past peak torque in a blink anyway.

A BB makes lots of torque in most typical street setups and if you just blow it away on tire spin it's a total waste in all respects ,other than it impresses the "cruise night" spectators.(But if that's a person's object then that's O.K too.)

Your converter is perfect for what you use your car for.A little more tire (eg Wider/stickier) and hold on!!!

Hope this opinion helps the question of the originator a bit?

Take care and hope you all had or are having a great Thanksgiving!!!

Florida(Gulf Coast) weather has been perfect for the last few weeks.