Hey everyone. I got my replacement piston ring that took a terd on me. The balls moving again, one last piston goes in and the oil pump goes on tomorrow, it's almost time to seal up the lower half! Exciting :eek: I read somewhere to NOT use any type of RTV sealant on the oil pump.

One thing I look forward to on a big block oposed to SBC is the timing cover and oil pan, don't have to drop the front of the pan and fuss with it to get the timing cover on. Anyways, just looking for final checks and thanks for all the help so far graemlins/beers.gif its almost time for the "fun stuff"

Put the timing cover on first, then the pan. Even on a cam change I still loosen the first 5 bolts on each side of the pan.

Why? No reason to loosen the pan on a big block. I don't even loosen them on a smallblock, and with little grinding on the timing cover,she slips right back in there,no problem.

I just prefer to loosen the pan bolts a little when doing a cam change. Two reasons - 1. it's easy to get to and allows for a lot less downward force getting the timing cover back on if reinstalling the timing cover with a new front pan seal. 2. When doing a cam change, I like to get a small amount of the applied black silicone to flow into the joint. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't really add anything extra, but this is one area that I can firmly say I have never had a leak after a cam change.

But even so, for what he is doing, building a motor on a stand, it doesn't make much sense to do the timing cover after the pan.

I agree,,,I'd put the timing cover on before installing the pan, much easier to get a good seal.

I know this has been stated 100 times but please don't forget to put the distributor rod on the oil pump. ;)

I've done it more than once when my mind gets about three steps ahead of me. graemlins/clonk.gif

One time it was when I tried to prime the engine. Might as well fire up the drill while running down the street for that matter :D

I had a factory timing cover and it was a piece of cake. Never had to loosen any pan bolts.

Rob

Oh yea, and don't forget to screw on the oil filter before priming the motor.

Let's see by a raise of hands all those that have pumped half the pan dry before they realized the oil filter was sitting on the bench. graemlins/waving.gif

Originally posted by GRN69CHV:
Oh yea, and don't forget to screw on the oil filter before priming the motor.

Let's see by a raise of hands all those that have pumped half the pan dry before they realized the oil filter was sitting on the bench. graemlins/waving.gif Luckily, I've never primed an engine with the oil fiilter off.

I do recommend priming the engine on the engine stand with the valve covers off. Rotate the engine 90 degrees, them prime some more...keep repeating till you have oil coming from very pushrod/rocker.

I once burnt up a set of new Comp Pro Magnums and pushrods because of a lifter/restrictor problem which nearly blocked most all the oil flow to the top end. Had I primed the engine on the stand, that problem could have easily been seen and corrected before any damage was done.

The distributor just drops down the hole and meets with the oil pump rod right? Or is there some kind of seperate "rod" Im not home to look at it, I can't remember.

I had my oil filter on but didn't block off the oil pressure sending unit hole, that managed to ruin a new pair of shoes graemlins/clonk.gif
Jeff

Doh! Nothing beats putting 5 Quarts of Redline Synthetic in without putting the drain plug back in ;)

Some have said not to use any sealer with the oil pump assembly, I read to use non RTV, to prevent it sucking any air and to get a full proper seal.

So the distributor just drops in the shaft and connects to the oil pump rod right? It was already assembled on the pump, unless theres something else I need.

No, your right. I have a tendency to call them the same thing. Just one rod.

Are you talking about the gasket on the bottom of the oil pump. I always put it on dry. No problems.

Rob

Mine didnt come with a gasket :eek: I dont think the old one had one either. They just go straight on don't they? A tad of sealant if any...

I think your talking about where it mounts to the block(top of the pump)right?

I should have known better. Your pump was probably already assembled when you got it.

Just bolt it on to torque(45 lbs?)and go.

Rob

Yeah we had some confusion there tongue.gif
Well it's a done deal then. The cam, oil pump, and last piston go on tonight! I am going to run the stock rockers but I think I want to replace these pushrods, they seem like they would be tough to check for straightness and whatnot.

So what is the story on this red lube that came with my crank & Bearing kit? No one ever told me what and when it's used. My BBC book didnt say either, unless I totally missed it.

Did you set your thrust clearance???
If so what method did you use??

I used two flathead screwdrivers....
And Plastigage

Phil,

Two misc things, the first one, I believe what 68 Hot Rod was asking, when he said:

Did you set your thrust clearance???
If so what method did you use??

He may be asking, did you check your Crankshaft end play, with a feeler gauge or Dial indicator.
Using the two screwdrivers is where you align the Thrust bearing before you tighten the bolts a bit.
With the plastic gauge, you where just checking the bearing/crank/rod clearances. I think it was just a terminology issue between you too.

On the oil pump, your right, don't use a RTV. I know plenty of people that put them on dry. I like to use a real thin layer of Permatex, something that won't harden.

Fred.

The red lube is typically for the bearings when you install the crank, cam and rods. It's a little more sticky than oil to help insure lubrication during that first fire up.

You should be fine if you at least put oil on those bearings, but you really have to make sure that the engine is primed before you fire it up..

And my machinist was very animate about not trying to use any kind of sealant in the oiling "areas". Even the oil pan we used a VERY ,VERY thin layer of 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the pan rail sides and MINIMAL RTV on the pan corners.

He was always concerned that windage in the pan could cause the excess amount that typically gets squeezed to the inside of the rails(if too much is applied) could break off in the pan and get into the oiling system and plug it.

Rob

Your crankshaft endplay should be within .001 of whatever it measured without the main cap installed.
This is important(plastigage won't check this)

Originally posted by quikss:
I had my oil filter on but didn't block off the oil pressure sending unit hole... graemlins/clonk.gif
Jeff I've seen that done before, on a dyno session no less, during engine priming.
And it wasn't me on the oil's receiving end and it wasn't the shoes it hit. Almost a little further up the leg... :D