Fuel Line Replacement Question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Fuel Line Replacement Question


Bart42
Jan 8th, 08, 8:00 PM
When you are jacking up the passenger side of the car after taking out the body mount bolts what else do I need to unbolt in order to replace the fuel lines? I have the inner fender wheel wells out on both sides. Do I need to remove the fenders? It would seem to me that lift the car up 3 or four inches in the rear would put stress on the fenders and mess something up. I don't want to end up messing up some nice OEM fenders.

Thanks

69ssmike
Jan 8th, 08, 8:24 PM
I was able to get my fuel and return line in on my 69 with just jacking up the rear a couple inches, no fender problems.

Bart42
Jan 8th, 08, 9:05 PM
I was able to get my fuel and return line in on my 69 with just jacking up the rear a couple inches, no fender problems.

Where did jack the rear up from? I was thinking of the rear rocker panel on the passenger side. Did not know if there was a better place. How hard was it to get the old lines out and the new in?

Thanks

69ssmike
Jan 8th, 08, 9:47 PM
My tank was out when I did it, I put a 2x4 on the one brace under the tank. I would try to jack it up on a brace somewhere, if not a piece of 2x4 under the rocker should work also. Wasn't all that hard, had a heck of a time putting the new straps on the tank though, trick here is to use longer bolts and pull it up to help bend the straps some. Good luck

vrooom3440
Jan 9th, 08, 7:38 PM
I don't think you will mess up anything so long as you remove ALL the body mount bolts on the PS. And need I say this also includes the core support? ;-) BTDT

Removing bumpers for clearance would be a good idea. I would probably put the PS inner fender back in for the extra support if you are nervous. The front end is actually more rigid WITH the inner fenders than without.

I used a 2x4 or two under the rocker seam as a lift point. I also put 2x4 blocks between the frame and body for an extra margin of safety. I rather value my hands.

You can get a pretty fair amount of clearance in the tricky back section this way so it is not too bad. You will need to reach in through the rear wheel well to remove the bolted on clamp on the kick up section. The hardest part is getting it threadded back into frame in front during installation. It was kinda hard getting that initial front section out for me as I wanted to reuse the original line again (I was just removing it to use as a pattern to bend up the new EFI feed line from a roll of steel tubing).