10 passes 200 street miles

fastimes motorworks built these for me last winter,160/450 springs 2.25/1.81 manleys,guideplates,arp rocker studs.
bowl blended,gasket matched,unshrouded.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>first $950

So, Eric, you've been a member here since Oct, 2000 and you haven't noticed that that we don't allow our tech forums to be used by people wanting to sell their parts?

Tom

sorry about that tom,
thought i can get away with it just once :D

didn't want anybody to miss out on this deal

Good one, Tom. :rolleyes:

With that kind of performance, I'd keep em :D

Not on a 502, modern small port alum will dominate them.

Ericrickster .....can I ask what alum head you are going to and are you buying bare or assembled ??

From Bracket Talk racer1320 posted >

1320racer
S/PRO
posted September 30, 2003 09:54 AM
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by rickster:
from MY testing on MY car,the aluminum heads were consistantly quicker and faster,but i am no bracket racer

believe me i expected the car to et quicker with iron heads too.

and it's going to cost me alot of $$$ to get back to 11.15 from my current 11.36,not to mention 3 the mph i lost also.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Eric, I feel comment from me is warranted being that you've previously stated that after seeing my ride run you decided to make the swap to
cast iron oval port heads, a dual plane, small tube headers and 950HP.

Do what you want, but after only 10 passes, running on of the worse prepared tracks in division 1, running on test/tune days no less and breaking not only your trans, but the spider gears in your dana 60 powerloc, having clutch problems("struggling with obscene amounts of slippage"), and constant tire spin do you think perhaps that this is no coincidence and that the new combo makes more torque, alot MORE USABLE TORQUE!

Further you stated as well that when you discussed this swap with Fast Times they too agreed that your combo would run quicker and faster with these heads.

That being said, what worked before with chassis/suspension settings, launch RPM, clutch adjustment, tire pressure etc. ,obviously doesn't work now. BTW, how many runs are on your slicks?

Yet despite all the above and the fact that your 10 runs have been in summer conditions you stated you ran "the same 119+ mph in the heat, on the first shakedown pass with bugs" and "the same exact numbers for a hot day 1.57 11.3@119" with the old combo on a good run.

Since you're not a bracket racer you probably don't know as well that a well sorted n/a ride will vary approx. .05 in 60 foot, 3 tenths and 3 MPH from the good air of spring/fall and exellent track conditions to the dead air of summer with a hot/greasy track with NO tuning changes.

That being said, your 11.36 and 119.5 will easily drop to 11.0's @ 122+ with the same spin no mind if you hook.

Your fustration with not running quicker ET's is NOT due to your heads, same heads on my 468 are good for 10.40's and 650+HP with peak flow at peak lift of approx. 320 cfm.

As I've told in past emails this new combo with the right cam WILL RUN at least 10.90's in the heat at this weight PROVIDING you can hook it.

Clearly better driveline components are needed as well MANY more runs in favorable conditions and on a good track.

Lastly, when you choose to race a stick car, a heavy one at that, the price of admisssion is high and the learning curve steep! It's not a matter of if you will break parts but rather WHEN and what parts!!!

I don't care who's trans you ultimately use, it will break at some point as well most everything in your driveline will that isn't bulletproof. Even then once you get the best money can buy, suspension components, attachment points, etc. WILL FAIL! That is a fact, how soon depends on how often and under what conditions you race.

With only 70 runs on the previous combo it may be some time, just forewarning you.

I'm here to help if you want.

Good luck.

right, which is why the 10 second stick cars aren't built with mid range torque as the overriding engine charateristic. 5500+ clutch drops arent, and shifts at 7000+ aren't 215 territory, particularly on a 502.

At least everyone I've seen has been a rpm motor, at that sub 11 caliber. Wicked tough on parts. Big gear too, 4.56 min, 4.88 etc, it seems.

Eric, BTW, them are some very respectible times with a clutch car. VERY respectible. To agree with whomever just posted, to go 10's with a clutch car is a hard row to hoe. Guys do it, dont get me wrong.

You got the right trans anyway! Frickin bulletprrof they say.

Oh, so why are you wheeling the 215's???? Too much low end torque?

cdn ss, the new brodix race rites look like they have real good flow #'s

or maybe i'll lose my mind and call scoggin dickey and order a 700+hp 534 pump gas crate motor for $13.500 and make mortgage payments on the thing for the rest of my life :D

go to guy,>>"go to" dragraceresults.com for the reply to that post,dyno #'s,still a good deal for under a grand,regardless of my discussions with others on other sites.

427L88,thanks for the compliments

yeah,this gearbox took alot of abuse for 3 years,but i got lazy and didn't take turns out of my adjustable clutch and BOOM,split the box in half!!!!!

:eek: WOW! thats alot of case splitting torque! Hey, I give you credit for trying for sure. It seems like once you get past 12's in a heavy car, the "kindler and gentler" hit of a viscous coupling( converter), is the way to go. If you want to be like everyone else that is.

Good luck 'bro.

Off the subject, but boy you guy's have me worried about my stock M-20, drive shaft and 12 bolt behind my medium grunt powered 496!!

I guess to stay with shifting something and still being able to feel the jolt like a stick tranny, I guess a clutch-flite, a built Detriot-Locker nine inch, and a big drive shaft is in order!!

BTW, if you think you have parts problems now, just wait til you install some better, lighter heads and make more midrange grunt then you have now!!

The only way to really band-aid it is to put rect's on it as well as a big high rpm cam so that you move the torque curve up the rpm scale, but then to make the best power like this but upstairs that you can, you will need max. compression and that get's to be a pain feeding gas to!!!

Anybody else like to comment b/c I am really way outta my league here as usual...

pdq67

PDQ, dont worry, its when you start deadhooking like Eric that you get bound up. Or put another way, if you're really into 11's and beyond, well it becomes an issue.

I'll settle for 12's and a helluva lot of fun. I mean no offense to anyone, but driving an auto is just, well, no fun. For poor mans bracket racing, sure, for fun, it sucks.

And before a flame war start, yes, I have driven a low 11/high 10 second auto car.

When or if I ever build a car for my wife, or a bracket car, I'll use an auto. For me,

It's only rock and row!

It's only rock and row!
graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

My automatic is just as much fun as any 4 speed, and its much easier on parts, and able to leap "little red cars" in a single bound...I thought this topic was about heads? I'd keep the 215's until you get a good comparison.

Did you ever sell the heads???

EDIT: thanks for the quick email reply,,,just wondering,one the 049's I had sent off to be done had a crack in them, found a set of 781's,,,we'll see what happens with them.

Bob,
i have a set of #215's for sale from the shop, already done, with 2.19/1.88 valves, seats in the exhaust, resurfaced.