I can rebuild a Big Block Chevy in my sleep, but I'll be damned if I could get my new set of PST polygraphite bushings into the front control arms off my '72 Chevelle. It looks to me like the shells on the bushings are just too big (like .025" bigger than the old bushings) to go into the holes without a major fight. I ruined one bushing and bent the control arm a little trying to get the first one in (front bushing in lower control arm). I also tried one of the oval bushings (rear bushing in lower control arm) with no luck. I was using a large bench vise and big sockets. Like Kenny Rogers once sang..."you gotta' know when to fold 'em", so I have cleaned up the workbench and called it a night. I shouldn't have to grind down the bushing shells or hog out the holes in the control arms, should I??? Any advice? Anybody in the Virginia/Maryland area with expertise on installing these bushings?

Thanks for letting me rant a little. I feel better now.

Happy New Year!
Mike

throw the bushings in the freezer overnight, and find a nice, warm, toasty place to store the arms.
things should fit together better, since the bushings will be shrunk and the arms will expand.
if your bench vice doesn't get the job done, then find a balljoint/bushing press and get it done in about 5 minutes.

novaderrik,

I put the bushings in the freezer for about 3 hours before starting, but I didn't heat up the control arms. Since it was only about 50 degrees in my garage, it probably wasn't a big enough temp delta between the bushings and the control arms. I'll throw the bushings in the freezer tonight, and give it a try again tomorrow. I just don't want to screw up any more bushings or mangle my control arms!!

Thanks,
Mike

When I did my bushings, I just used a air chisel with the blunt nose hammer punch. I just put a peace of flat steel against it, and let the air tool do the work. jim

I got a machine shop to press them in with a press. It is cheap and saves alot of time trying to get them in. I have found without a press it is next to impossible to get them in.

PST bushings are a pain to install. I charge an additional $20.00 to install them. You should take them apart before you attempt to install (remove the "rubber from the metal sleeve (You can make one out off a piece of pipe cut in half) (you should do this anyway to grease them with the white sticky grease that comes with them or they will squeak once installed)). You need to make a spacer that goes inside the ear of the control arm so that you do not bend the arm. Uses a ball joint press to press them in. Do not use an air chisel, as the chances of damaging the arm are great. I have heard the hot and cold trick works but I have never tried it. See this link. Press, Spacers, and Shims (http://www.leverfamilysite.com/Spacers_and_Shims_Page.htm)

Most good parts stores will rent or loan you a ball joint press.

Thanks, guys!!!

I went out this afternoon and purchased a 12 ton shop press and a ball joint tool. Using those tools and Glenn's suggestion to remove the bushings from their shells (which turned out to be fairly easy), I was able to get all the bushings in with no problems!!

Only have a couple of questions.

1. What are the torque spec for the bolts on each end of the "upper inner shaft" on the upper control arm?

2. Does the upper ball joint grease boot go inside or outside of the ball joint retainer plate?

Thanks again for all the great advice.

Take care,
Mike

Thanks, guys!!!

I went out this afternoon and purchased a 12 ton shop press and a ball joint tool. Using those tools and Glenn's suggestion to remove the bushings from their shells (which turned out to be fairly easy), I was able to get all the bushings in with no problems!!

Only have a couple of questions.

1. What are the torque spec for the bolts on each end of the "upper inner shaft" on the upper control arm?

2. Does the upper ball joint grease boot go inside or outside of the ball joint retainer plate?

Thanks again for all the great advice.

Take care,
Mike

The boot goes under the retaining ring.

Installation instructions for front Upper Control Arms with Bolt Style retainer.

This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1970 Chassis Service Manual for Chevrolet. Chevelle. Monte Carlo. Nova GM A-Body.

Note: All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

End cap bolts should not be tighten until vehicle is on the ground (and entire vehicle weight is supported by vehicle springs (motor installed and body panels on)).

1) Install upper control arm in vehicle.
2) Install Locknuts, bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame.
3) Install the same number of shims as removed at each bolt.
4) Torque bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame to 50 ft. lbs. (Bolt Torques Specifications 3).
5) Install ball joint stud through steering arm knuckle, install nut, tighten and install cotter pin (no torque specification supplied). This is assuming the lower control arm is already installed.
6) Install wheel and tire assembly.
7) Lower vehicle to floor.
8) Bounce front end of vehicle to centralize bushings and torque bushing collar bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (Bolt Torques Specifications 3).
9) Recheck after 50 miles.



Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.

Installation instructions for front Upper Control Arms with Nut Style retainer.



This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual for Oldsmobile. GM A-Body.

Note: All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

End cap Nuts should not be tighten until vehicle is on the ground (and entire vehicle weight is supported by vehicle springs (motor installed and body panels on)).

1) Install upper control arm in vehicle.
2) Install Locknuts, bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame.
3) Install the same number of shims as removed at each bolt.
4) Torque bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame to 75 ft. lbs.
5) Install ball joint stud through steering arm knuckle, install nut, tighten (Torque bolts to 40 ft. lbs) and install cotter pin. This is assuming the lower control arm is already installed.
6) Install wheel and tire assembly.
7) Lower vehicle to floor.
8) Bounce front end of vehicle to centralize bushings and torque bushing collar nuts to 55 ft. lbs.
Note! I have read in several different manuals, which provided different specs for the torque on these nuts ranging from 55 to 75. The important thing here is the bushings should not rotate. They are not a bearing for the control arm shaft to pivot on. The rubber in the control arm bushings is to resist the movement of the control arm.

9) Recheck after 50 miles.


Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.








Installation instructions for front Lower Control Arms



This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual for Oldsmobile. GM A-Body.

Note: All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

Lower Control Arm Installation;

1) Install control arm ball joint stud in steering knuckle and torque to 80 Foot Pounds and install cotter pin. Tighten further if necessary to install cotter pin.
2) Position spring into pilot of frame and into lower control arm.
3) Install Spring Compressor Tool BT-6505 and compress spring until lower control arm bushing bolts can be installed

Do not torque bolts at this time. Bolts are to be torqued with weight of the car on the wheels.

4) Remove Spring Compressor Tool BT-6505 and install shock absorber, Stabilizer link, Bump Stop, and wheel and tire assembly.
5) Remove floor stands and lower car.
6) Torque lower control arm bushing nuts to 75 Foot Pounds.
7) Recheck after 50 miles.


Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.