I got my 412 broken in with the new cam. It's a 244/252 with .550 lift, hydraulic grind. I went ahead and broke it in with a can of EOS, and I removed the inner valvesprings. After that, everything was pretty good. I drove it around for a bit also to make sure I had a complete break in. I then changed the oil and put the inner valvesprings back in. Spring forces are 132lbs on the seat, and 295 over the nose. I use the EOIC method to set valve lash. New graphite composite header gaskets too.

So I start the engine back up, and man, it sounds as if one lifter is really ticking...quite loud. Almost as if one of the roller rockers are hitting the valve covers, but they don't seem to be. I let the oil warm up and it didn't change. I went ahead and pulled the valve covers and I checked all the rockers, and the lash was good (phew!). I re-did the lash just in case. Meanwhile, I run the motor again and check stuff out with my stethescope, and while I can hear the valvetrain through the covers, I don't hear any loud ticking noises. I can hear some header leaks, but not like what I hear when I'm just standing in front of the engine. Sound is coming from right side only. The engine idles and drives great also, ready for track duty.

What do you think guys? Could a cam possibly be bad even when the lash is good? Any ideas to possibly isolate the noise?

69, fix the obvious first. If the headers are leaking then fix that first, that very well could be your ticking noise.

Rob

Drive it for awhile, then check lash again if you still hear the sound and you're concerned. It may take awhile if it really is a lobe going away, but from what you say here, I dont think you have to worry.

If you think there is even a chance that a rocker arm is hitting the valve cover double up on the gaskets,should give you enough hieght so you can make sure that it's not hitting.And as the others have said fix the header leak you'll be able to hear better! graemlins/waving.gif

whats your procedure for setting the lash on that hydraulic?
you didnt use the "spin the pushrod" method hopefully?

Thanks for the replies, guys.
-66Rat: I block sanded the header flanges to make sure they were flat, and I used new graphite composite gaskets. I'm thinking I should double up on the gaskets, or bite the bullet and buy some copper/aluminum style gaskets.

-JRS: That is a possibility. I'm thinking I'm going to leave the covers off and run the motor for a short period (to avoid a mess) to see if the sound dissapears.

-Brian: I use the EOIC method, but I check for zero lash by moving the pushrod end of the rocker up and down. This seems accurate, and I was never good at doing the "spin the pushrod" method. When I think I reach zero lash, I go another 1/2 turn. Is there a process that you have in mind that I should try?

Jiggling the rocker arm up and down while slowly tightening the locknut works for me. As soon as you can no longer feel any movement you are at zero. Then 1/4, 1/2 or whatever your manufacturer recommends.

The best way to set your lash is while it is running with a valve cover off. One at a time, back the adjusting nut off untill you hear it clacking then slowly retighten it untill the clacking goes away then another 1/2 turn more.

if your talking about the passanger side. it could be a broken spring in your fuel pump. just some thing for you to look at.

most of the ones i do still have the intake off, so i usually just watch the plunger.


the "Clacky clack" method is a fire hazard.

felpro makes a good header gasket that has a wire mesh inside of it

Hmm seems it would work but wouldn't the wrench fly off or loosen-- do you turn, then pull off wrench, listen, turn, pull off wrench, or leave wrench on then tighten after it begins to clack?? just curious as to what would keep the wrench from flyimng off???
I will try that next time if it is that easy.....

I never had a problem with my socket flying off. I couldn't use that method for mine because it pumped so much oil. Even a slotted junk valvecover didn't work.