Bow tie block 4.530, Not Mark 5, Machined by Diamond.
Callies crank, 4.375
Oliver rods He said +.250 (over stock length?)
9 Diamond pistons 14 to 1 gas ported.
2 crane roller cams.
Peat Jackson gear drive
D port alum. heads ported by diamond. S.S. valves, tit. retainers.
Fluid damper
565 c.i.
Ok, He claims this will make 900 hp, with a tennel ram. I don't know if he has more parts, I will see this weekend. He wants 5,500 All the above parts are still in the box new except the block, but It is freshly machined.
I would make a street engine of it. So is it poss. to cut the domes to make 10 to 1? I now a gy who builds race engines, he has lots of parts he will sell me reasonable. he has a tunnel ram set up and prob. most the parts I will need to finish her. What do you guys think?

That's far from a street motor, scrap the roller cams, heads, pistons, gear drive. Is the block and crank worth 5500 bucks to you? I would think that deal would be sweet if a guy had a race car that needed a new bullet. I guess you could sell off the parts........but that's pennys on the dollar for used race internal's. 5500 bucks will get you a bad arse BBC for the street IMHO.

Well My car is a race car. I run race gas now. I just wanted to run pump gas for economy. I like the heads, I love the roller cam, have to find out if the pistons can be cut. He does have all crane roller lifters and roller rockers. I don't think I could get any thing like this for the money?

If your car is a race car, score.
Bolt it in and run it. Fueling a race only car is about the least exspensive thing you will have to worry about. Now if your looking to drive a "race car" on the street..........different story. Trailer it to the track like all the other "race cars", and maybe burn a few gallons of gas a week.

Your right about the price, good deal for a race mill. Not such a great deal for a street driven car. The money you would spend to make it streetable on pump gas would buy a whole lot of razin gaz for your race car.

Any cam made for a 14/1 mill aint gonna work in a pump gas combo, toss the tunnel ram deal as well.

What would this mill be replacing, and what ET is your current race car set up running? ;) If you were to bolt in the 900 hp, plan on changing every thing from the back of the block, the entire drive train would have to go.........that will put a dent in your razin budget for sure!!!!!!!!!

If you fell confortable with the deal, go with it. I personally would not reduce the compression. The power loss is not worth the $$$ savings in fuel. My new motor will have 13 to 1 compression and it's been a long time since I've bought race fuel. Here's some pricing I've gotten today.

Turbo Blue by the gallon is $4.50, 30 gallons is $4.00/gallon or $120/drum, and 55 gallons is $3.72/gallon or $205/drum.

VP fuels C12 is $189/30 gallon drum, $300/55 gallon drum.

Your gonna pay at least $2.00/gallon for premium pump gas. Lets assume you use 55 gallons in a years time. For pump gas your gonna spend $110. That means T/B would be a $95 upgrade in fuel costs, and C12 would be a $190 upgrade in fuel costs. That is a minimal cost considering your looking at buying a $5500 engine. Look at the big picture here, and not try and nickel & dime the operating costs.

If you were gonna mainly street drive it, then sure pump gas makes sence, but for a strip only deal, race gas and high compression are a smart move in both power and consistency.

True, I am ready to buy this thing, except I check the block numbers, 10051107. Is this safe at 4.530? He said it was a 502, that is a 454.

http://www.roadsters.com/bbc/

Good place to check out bore and stroker numbers at a glance.

I'd be all over that deal.You'd spend $5000 on the short block alone,without machining costs.
And, I agree with Todd. I run a 13-1 427 around town and the only inconvenience really is availability of turbo blue from the pump. I just take four 5 gallon fuel jugs in my truck a couple times a month.