Im wondering if reducing the ratio at the rocker arm would take off sufficient nose pressure for camshaft break in purposes. Is there such thing as a 1.2 ratio rocker for a BB? If so where do I find them? I really dont want to remove the inner springs, Am I out of my mind or is this possible? Are there any geometry implications?
Your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks Rich

http://community.webshots.com/user/67ragtp

I think you'll be fine breaking it in with all the springs on the head. 1.2 rockers wouldnt open the valves properly, wouldnt run right anyway. I'd just make sure the cam and lifter faces are gooped up good,prelube the engine and break it in. I've never used EOS but several recommend it.

Rich
It's how we break in all our engines with flat tappet cams on the dyno.
Works excellent & as far as not running right it will run just fine. It will probably run better at low speed then with the stock rockers ;)
Crower makes break in rockers for Rats & I believe Crane does but not sure.
Comp makes them for small blocks but they don't make em for rats.
they ain't real cheap so unless you are doing a lot of engines or plan on renting them out :D
I would just take the inner springs out.
As for not doing it you won't find a cam grinder out there that doesn't recommend light spring or break in rockers.

Thanks guys.

Mike, I might give crane a call, Thanks again

rich, you dont by any chance have a viper t56 in that...do you?

Brute,

Right now I run muncies, since I build my own gear boxes Its been working well for me. Check out the link above theres a whole bunch of gear boxes on my shelf in case I need one. The one in the car uses a supercase, nod iron mid plate and all new gears. The viper t56 would be nice, I guess Im a bit of a tradionalist, cant let go of the muncie.

Rich

ahh ok, my grandfather has a chevelle like yours, and his name is rich, and he used to live in NJ till bout a year ago and i thought maybe he forgot to change his location, he threw a t56 in his chevelle, he loves it, thats awesome that you make your own gear boxes id love to know how to do somethin like that.

where in nj are you, do you go to the tracks often?

I didn't remove my inners with my Comp Cam #924-16 springs, with the open pressure right around 315lbs if I remember right, and 125 or so on the seat. I did use some really good moly based lube, plus a bottle of EOS from the local GM dealer

Good luck

Tony,
No one said you had to remove the springs. What I said was you should & that you are not going to find many cam grinders or engine builders that will dissagree.
You may get away with not using light spring, probably will but for the amount of work & expense it is to do it twice break in rockers or light springs start lookin real good. ;)
There are people who put engines together in the middle of a dust storm too but that doesn't make it the best alternative :D

The springs on my heads are 150lbs on the seat, with over .600 lift the nose pressure is gonna be up there. I imagine alot of people are successful
breaking in cams without reducing the nose pressure, but I have to agree with Mike, I have to much money into the motor, its not worth the risk. Ive been through the compressed air routine to remove springs just not crazy about it. I would rather lash the valves a few times with a rocker swap.

Mike- Are the break in rockers stamped steel units or are they rollers? Any idea what they might cost me? There are definatly more cam swaps and motors to be built on my horizon.

Brute- Oakland NJ(northeast). I dont get to the track as much as I would like. I borrow a trailer from a buddy who I built a gear box for, Island dragway in GreatMedows is the closest for me and still 1 hour drive. Since the 540 went in its been traction deprived to the tune of 12.8s at 119 with 2.5second 60foots didnt start to hook until half way through third gear. It dont get worse than those numbers. The car is a trip to drive though.
Just squezed some 28x13.5s under it with split leaves and caltracs and 90/10s up front. Hopefully it will transfer weight now.

Rich

About $300 from Crower & their's are a drop in deal. They move the trunion so you don't have a problem with the pushrod not fitting the guide plate right.
They are 1.3's
Part # is 72882 from memory