Seasons Greetings,

I'm building a 42'x58' pole type building metal exterior and it will have a full interior package also metal. We decided to go with heat in the cement/concrete floor. It has a 15 ft ceiling and one 20'w-12'high overhead door on the north end and the south 42' wall has a 12x12' door.

Full bathroom off of the side of building and one 36" door 7 30"x48" windows. Fully insulated for Illinois weather and summers like I said heat in the floor high efficiency boiler and AC as well.

I have several 220Volt things like Air compressor and mig welder. Some day tig and a bigger Air compressor. It also has a Rotary In-ground Smart Lift that I think is 220 V.

I'm thinking about where and what I need for electricity and for lighting. Any help would be appreciated and should I try to get some power in behind the inside walls or leave it and put it in conduit?

It has the wood frame up and trying to see if Illinois winter will ease enough to get out side then inside done followed by the concrete floor. That way it is under the roof and the ground has some time to warm up and dry a little.

Any help is much appreciated. Hoping some of you folks have been there done that and have some great words of what you did that worked and what did not. Also what you would have done diferently.

Also I want this place very, very well lit.

Hope your holidays were great and safe and Happy New Year.

Rob

if possible put in a box for 220 3ph then you can run what ever your heart desires down the road :D
I'm inclined to run conduit down the wall as its much easier to move things later on :)
as I've found out that things have a way of getting moved as more toys are added ;)

In last months Hemmings there was a story of a guys cars and shop. He ran the overhead tube florecent lighting at 45 angles to the side walls to avoid casting shadows on the cars. That sounded like a great idea at no extra cost.

Rob,
lots of good ideas here...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/


david

P.S.
have you considered another man-door beside the 12' overhead door.
then you won't have to open the overhead if you need to get in or out.

Good advice I was thinking that on the lights part way down on the walls to project to the inside.

I have just the on 36" small door in addition to the 12 and 20 ft doors. I thought about one in the rear but I can do that later if I find I need it. With 2 Chevelles, one Camaro, a K-1500 truck, it will be busy. We are having a 3 car attached to the house with 10ft ceilings in part or all of it.

I want one or two of the park/lifts that have a caster kit.

I'll have the 220 I don't know much about electrical power but it has to have the 220 to run the mig, and air compressor. I have a 20 ft long or so very heavy duty extension cord I built for the 220 so I could wheel the welder into the drive way.

Not sure of the phase. We are some what limited being a rural area but Their top of the line is what I have.

So do I want to put 220 on both sides of the building? 4 corners or in the center?

It all ready seems small in just the wood frame that is up. Maybe I can add another 50ft later.

A stove/oven for powder coating also.

You can't get 3 phase on a residential building. If it were agricultural, you could, at least thats the way it works in most of the country.

For lighting, I recommend looking into T-5 Highbays. If you are having an electrician do the work for you, just tell them that. The T-5 Highbays will be the brighest most efficient lighting you will find. They are a little pricey up front, but you will need less of them. Again, it will be bright. I just wired up a maintainance building for a co-op, and they wanted it bright, so we used those lights and their mechanics are very happy with the lighting. We use them a lot in warehouses as well.

I would try to get as much of the electrical behind the tin as possible. You can always add on later with conduit, but if you get as much as possible in the walls, it is just a much cleaner look, and looks like you actually did some planning ahead.

Jeff

Rob,

With the metal inside it would be hard to conceal the boxes and have them come out right with the ribbing. Exterior conduit the right size would give you room down the road to pull more wires. For lighting we just installed a 6 lamp T8 fixture that work great. Don't think you would need them on the walls. The more pipe you can put in the concrete for home runs would keep the walls looking kleen. You could probably get away with 100 amp but 200 would be ideal. Single phase also. Hope this helps

Chris