i know right off try ls1tech.com, i go there so just give me a minute. i found a place in NC that will make a custom tank for me out of aluminum. it will look almost like factory as he has made some for a few 67-69 camaro's with ls1 with sumps in them etc. my question is does anyone have the factory specs??? i do not have a factory gas tank. i was also wondering is it worth the $500.00 for just tank? also what else is needed besides pump and sending unit? anyone got some part #'s on these items i will need? i know there are a few ls1tech guys here with chevelles (cough pistol pete and stealth cough cough):yes: so come on guys i need some ireda or to find a used/not needed tank or some measurements for these guys. thanks and sorry for such a long post.

Not cheap but here are some Stainless tanks for a fuel injected application that should fit the factory location and use factory hardware and sending unit for fuel gauge.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_758723_-1_10297

yeah ricks tanks is what i would recomend for facotry look but able to handle a lot of hp very good quality tanks

yeah ricks tanks is what i would recomend for facotry look but able to handle a lot of hp very good quality tanks

+3 for Ricks. :yes: I have one in my El Camino and it's a work of art!

94-96 Caprice gas tanks are close to the same size. they have the filler neck pointing out the back, are made of plastic, have baffles, and are set up for efi in tank fuel pumps.

I'll chime in for the Caprice tank. Mine came out of a 96' Roadmaster. $40 from the junkyard. Neat internal baffles, but it still will suck a little air below 1/8 tank. The thing I really like that I don't think the replacement steel tanks can say is capacity. I can squeeze 25 gallons usable gallons in the plastic tank. It's capacity was something like 23, but I guess thanks to the straps it streaches to 25 in my car. Gas gauge is still inaccurate as in the stock tank...

What novaderick said. I have measured (but not yet installed) a Caprice tank and it is really close.

Pist0lpete who's that?.... haha I think it would be tough to get measurements on a stock tank since its such an odd sized setup. Its a shame I threw away my old one it would have been good for this type of deal. For $500, if he can make a baffled aluminum tank that looks stock I say its a pretty good deal and for it. Make sure he makes a quality piece of course. I did a tanksinc setup on my stock tank and I think it should work fine but baffled would be much better. I would think if you took the guy your car and some stock straps he could make a nice sized tank that would tuck up nice and work great as well. I will try and get some pics of my setup on LS1tech today so keep an eye out.

I have a '95 Impala SS tank in my swap. Some trunk floor mods are necessary.

I have some pics on ls1tech.com:

Tank install on this page:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510709&page=2

Pickup/return mods in this post:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6045458&postcount=138

I have issues with spending big $$$ on something that really only partially solves a problem. Here is what I did with a new stock tank on my El Camino:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1491535&postcount=5

If baffles were the right answer, don't you think the OEMs would be using them? Now there may be some differences in requirements or at least perceptions. But the fuel pump module is by far the simplest solution to the requirements of EFI fuel system. And it is a fairly common solution used in many of the more recent EFI designs.

the oems don't use baffled tanks because it's cheaper to just do the "module" thing.
but the plastic Caprice tanks do have some molded in baffling in there, there are millions of them in junkyards, and the sending units work with the stock gauge.
if i ever get around to putting the LT1 in the Monte, i'm going to find me a Caprice parts car to get the tank and both the pressure and return lines out- they are plastic and snap right into the sender and fuel rail. wire in a relay to control the pump, and that would be the entire fuel system.

true that the impala tank hangs low? meaning below bumpper where is ver noticeable? the guy is a pro makes his living building radiators etc and has made some gas tanks in his life. does all pressure checks etc with each build. $500 is just tank then you got another like 300 for pump,and sender etc. so about $800 for total. would it be worth it or would you recomm the ricks tank? just looking for all possible options out there.

I have a Rick's Tank in my 72. It looks and works great. But we had issues with my 2 1/2 inch tail pipes. The fit was to tight for the passenger side. Had to go with 2 1/4 tail pipes and they are really tight and rattle a little bit.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/disc_brakes_2_.JPG

Another complaint I have heard on the ricks tanks if you can call it a complaint is the fact that they are stainless steel so they are fairly heavy whereas an aluminum one would be a weight loss over the stocker. Other than that they seem like very nice tanks. Another thing to consider thats all.

I think Rick's tanks are on a 6-8 week wait right now. I was reading about it on another forum.

The Impala/Caprice tank does hang down some below the bumper, but it is a cheap option.

I have a Rick's tank. Looks good and works great. But they are BIG $$$$.$$

Yes it is heavy. I had eibach 1" lowering springs and car was nice and even. Once I put the tank on and threw a full size spare in the trunk the rear drooped a little so I switched back to factory cargo springs.

My 3" pipe would have caused me problems too. But I figured this out before hand and I called Hector at Rick's and have he shave some off the corners. It bolted right in. With help of jack and rigging a couple of come alongs to hold it in place because of weight.

Only other things I would have changed is:
I would have asked that they build a can around the sending unit so that everytime you take off turn or stop the gage bounces all over the place.

Little word of experience, with the type of sending unit they use you have a HUGE reserve when your gage reads empty, likw 40% capacity. They do this because obviously you do not want your pump to run dry. After install and time to fire it up I added about 6 gal of gas and the gage read empty. I got depressed after I rewired the sending unit like 3 times and thought it was bad and I was going to have to go through the excersize of dropping the tank and replacing. But once I went to the gas statipon and filled up and saw that it works it was happy times again.

Only other problem is gas shooting back at you when your filling up. Most pumps now a days pump full throttle no matter what postion you squeeze the handle. But I figured out a solution from reading another post in here. Bought a late model truck neck that has the flap on it and cut a couple of inches off the neck they supplied me and hose clamped it on. This fixed the problem. But I have a NHRA kill switch installed on top of the neck at the trunk and the 3" hose is just big enough so I can't use the kill switch as my anti theft deterent. Call Hector and told him about my fix to this problem and he said send it in so they could weld it for me and also to check it out and maybe use it for there future builds.

I have a Rick's tank. Looks good and works great. But they are BIG $$$$.$$

Yes it is heavy. I had eibach 1" lowering springs and car was nice and even. Once I put the tank on and threw a full size spare in the trunk the rear drooped a little so I switched back to factory cargo springs.

My 3" pipe would have caused me problems too. But I figured this out before hand and I called Hector at Rick's and have he shave some off the corners. It bolted right in. With help of jack and rigging a couple of come alongs to hold it in place because of weight.

Only other things I would have changed is:
I would have asked that they build a can around the sending unit so that everytime you take off turn or stop the gage bounces all over the place.

Little word of experience, with the type of sending unit they use you have a HUGE reserve when your gage reads empty, likw 40% capacity. They do this because obviously you do not want your pump to run dry. After install and time to fire it up I added about 6 gal of gas and the gage read empty. I got depressed after I rewired the sending unit like 3 times and thought it was bad and I was going to have to go through the excersize of dropping the tank and replacing. But once I went to the gas statipon and filled up and saw that it works it was happy times again.

Only other problem is gas shooting back at you when your filling up. Most pumps now a days pump full throttle no matter what postion you squeeze the handle. But I figured out a solution from reading another post in here. Bought a late model truck neck that has the flap on it and cut a couple of inches off the neck they supplied me and hose clamped it on. This fixed the problem. But I have a NHRA kill switch installed on top of the neck at the trunk and the 3" hose is just big enough so I can't use the kill switch as my anti theft deterent. Call Hector and told him about my fix to this problem and he said send it in so they could weld it for me and also to check it out and maybe use it for there future builds.


Great info!!!! Thanks, I plan on having one built for mine car. They make a great product!

Ron

Unless you just want the look of a custom tank. Why not just buy a new chevelle tank that fits your car and looks good.You can use the factory pick-up and a electric frame mount pump and not have to pay so much for a tank. I have used WALBRO inline fuel pumps on about 10 protouring projects and have had no problems. I have used them on ls1 applications with turbos and they are great

I like the idea of having the pump mounted in the tank.(nice and quite) Also a built in sump and baffling. I will be running E85, so I need a pump that will move alot of fuel (with a large pick up)

If I could figure a wat to do it with a stock tank I would, but Ricks makes great looking, high quallity tanks.

Ron

If I could figure a wat to do it with a stock tank I would, but Ricks makes great looking, high quallity tanks.

Ron

http://www.racepumps.com/applications.html If these live up to their claims they should work fine with a stock tank.

http://www.racepumps.com/applications.html If these live up to their claims they should work fine with a stock tank.
Not really... based on their claims they would provide sufficient fuel and at adequate pressure. What they won't and cannot do is provide fuel when the supply line is sucking air.

This is a fundamental difference between a fuel system for a carburetor versus EFI. With a carb you always have the float bowl(s) providing a surge tank of sorts to get you through fuel supply bubbles. Not so in an EFI system and any fuel supply bubbles will result in the engine either running lean or not at all.

Down under they are quite fond of the external surge tank solution and you will find these things for sale on Ebay all the time. This was the first direction I planned to go, until I looked at how I was going to mount the required tank, secondary fuel pump, and fuel filter under the car. Yuck.

For all intents, the baffles in a tank are supposed to provide this surge capability. Now one could debate how long the surge may last before it disrupts fuel supply, and this likely depends on the sophistication of the baffles. The FuelSafe folks make some very interesting in-tank surge boxes with one-way valves and angled external baffles. The tray used by TanksInc is a fairly simple version of an in-tank surge box. GM used something similiar in many applications. This was the second direction I planned to go until I found a simpler way that required less surgery to the tank.

Which is what led me to the fuel pump module. I still think this is the simplest, easiest, and quite possibly most functional approach out there. You can upgrade the pumps in the module to some extent. And if you need still more fuel I suppose you could run multiple modules, maybe even phase them in as demand increases.

FWIW Walbro makes some very interesting fuel pickups that are supposed to shut off when there is not fuel. The idea is that you use multiple pickups located around the tank and at least one of them will be wet and pulling fuel while the others shut themselves off.