OK you guys let's here it. I am taking the 66 Chevelle to Muncie, In. Dragstrip tomorrow for the first time ever drag racing legally. Should I remove the front sway bar completely? Any other tips would be helpful. I will post my results sometime Sunday. Wish me luck!! I'm hoping to be in the high 12's. Thanks!!

You should be doing a lot better than 12's if you have 600hp. Just be cool when you get up to the line and don't get nervous and burnout when you take off. Also, don't pass the line when you pull up like I did the first time. :D Maybe try a couple practice launches before you go. Other than that, just know your car. Oh....almost forgot....take the good looking lady that's in a couple of your pics with you. ;) :D

The 600hp is estimated by the engine builder and that is at the flywheel. I also plan on having it dynoed this summer as well. It will probably be closer to 550hp at the flywheel. Less a 25% loss for the drivetrain. I'm hoping for 425hp at the rear wheel. I know, I need to change my signature to something more realistic.

Sounds good. I'm thinking that 425 rwhp should put you in the 11's though....don't you think? Either way, it should be a fun car with that much power. Let us know how you do when you run it/dyno it. smile.gif

Cdog, checked out your page. Very nice, very nice indeed. The car looks good too. I think I would skip the track and hang out with the lady!!!! :eek: . I would not mess with the sway bar first trip to the track, removing / diconnecting it does help with weight transfer to the rear, but the car will feel / handle much differnt than normal. You can just remove the links, or take it all the way off for a little weight savings. Take a helmet, get rid of any thing loose in the car, no junk in the trunk, neutral safety switch is also something the tech inspectors will look for. If your on slicks, you will need a drive shaft loop . Run on a full tank of gas. Wear a long sleeve shirt, make sure you have no leaks, and you must have a catch can for the rad. Roll up the windows. Pay attention to the track guys, they will flag you to were you need to be. If on street tires, drive around the water box and skip the burn out. Prestage the car, first top yellow, wait till the other guy does the same before you light the second yellow. Now your staged..........get ready....lights counting down 1/2 second apart.......hammer down on as soon as the last yellow starts to glow, if you wait for the green you will be way way late. I do think that your engine builder is optimistic about the 600HP with that small block, that would be one way bad mouse for sure. You will have to get a feel for the launch, spin will be an issue for sure on street tires. At the far end of the track, know the turn out for the return road. Never turn across the other guys lane to the return road when he is anywhere behind you. Your gonna have a blast!!!!! Let us know how you do!!!!!WARNING VERY ADDICTIVE. If you break something, laugh it off and spend gobs of money so you can break something else next trip to the track :D

Originally posted by chevydog66:
Should I remove the front sway bar completely?!! Um, I don't think you can really remove it partially tongue.gif :D ...Good luck at the track!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif

Originally posted by LXS:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by chevydog66:
Should I remove the front sway bar completely?!! Um, I don't think you can really remove it partially tongue.gif :D ...Good luck at the track!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif </font>[/QUOTE]Some people just remove the end links so it is not attached and not limiting front end travel, but keep the sway bar physically mounted. I wouldn't remove anything on the first trip. Get a baseline of what the car does first.

What kind of cubes are we talking here? You mention a .562 lift cam wich is moderate, but I would say a little small to be estimating 600 hp. But a damn good set of heads.

Even if we are talking 396 cubes in this set up, with a good tire (you dont mention gear or converter), you should sail into low 12s.

My stall is advertised at 2800-3200 rpm. The gear is a 355 posi in a 10 bolt rear end. Trans is a TH350. The car weighs 3320lbs with me in it and a 1/4 tank of gas with the spare in the trunk. I still don't have a hood on it yet. The tires are brand new Cooper 295/50/15 mounted on 8" wheels. Thanks for the info. I think I will take the end links out of the lower A arms and try it. Shocks are stock. I just bolted in the complete rear Hotchkiss suspension kit last week. Thanks again!!

Dayum....I think I'd stay home with the little woman too...sell the car :D I'm so focused at the starting line that I wouldnt even notice your lady if she was standing right beside the starting line. Focus on what you're doing and the christmas tree graemlins/thumbsup.gif

It was a joke Jim, you know, HA HA, HO HO tongue.gif graemlins/waving.gif

PSSSSSSSSSST.........what size is the freakin engine already???

UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMH!!!!!! :rolleyes:

Good luck on the track Jason!!!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

EDDY merlin.

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuHM!!!! :rolleyes:

Good luck on the track Jason!!!!!

EDDY merlin.

Sorry!! post Two times!! graemlins/angry.gif

EDDY merlin.

Eddy Merlin.....are those rolleyes directed toward my "PSSSST"?

I hope not....Im just asking for the second time (and now 3rd) in the same post for the cubes of his motor.

No way!!!!!!!! :D

EDDY merlin.

Oh, sorry I forgot. It's a 355c.i. small block. Thanks for the info guys!! Here is my times.
1st pass ever
R/T .791
60ft. 2.501
1/8 8.947
1000 11.421
1/4 13.550
MPH 105.52

3rd pass
R/T .742
60ft. 2.073
1/8 8.399
1000 10.849
1/4 12.959
MPH 106.35

I also found out I have a serious traction problem. I spin the tires for about the first 60ft. My tire pressure was at 26lbs. in my new Cooper tires. The size of the rear are 295/50/15 on 8" wide wheels. I did remove the bushings from the front sway bar and left the bar mounted to the frame rails. I really need to get a hood on it and some street slicks. But I was shooting or hoping for a 12.9 and that's what I got so I am very happy!! graemlins/hurray.gif smile.gif

Thats a very respectable ET and MPH for a street tire ride (even if it does weigh like 3300 lbs! Man my car is so overweight).
Have fun with the car, a 12.9 sec ride with no changes for the track is a good performer.
Unfortunatley and I know it hurts to hear this, it hurt me to hear it three times from three builders, but they often exaggerate to flat out lie about power levels.
I was pretty upset about my latest incident with an engine builder and I think I'll be going more like 115 in the 1/4 than 120.

matt

Hey! If you go back to the track try running open headers and try the racing gas they sell at the track. I run 110 octane but its about $4.00 a gallon. Another trick I do is take the pass and rear seats out and jack and spare tire. Anything to lighten the car up. Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!

Proceed at your own risk. Drag racing is addictive and harzardous to your health. Drag racing has been known to deplete all common sense concerning the funds for your kids education. Haha

My advice is to have fun no matter what issues you have. There was many a day i spent at the drag races and had a crappy day but had fun doing it.

Todd

I did remove the spare before I went to the track. I also run a 50/50 mix of 110 and 93 octane fuel. I can get it here for $3.50 a gallon. I am now in the process of looking for a set of street slicks, driveshaft loop, and 4" fiberglass cowl induction hood. Kewl!! Thanks!!

Sounds like your a step ahead of me. Once you get your slicks look over your driveshaft and u-joints really good. You start hooking up and this is usually the weak point. I run the u-joints that dont have the grease fitting because I think it is a weak spot to break. Others may say thats not true so use your own judgement. JOHN

Do you think I can drop at least a 1/2 a second with a hood and slicks? I had a new driveshaft built with the large cap u-joint up front and the combo small large u-joint in the rear because I still have the 10 bolt rearend. Next year I will get a Moser 12 bolt and run the 1350 yoke.

I wonder why i have that Isley Brothers Song in my ears now...?! :D ;) :D ;)

Who's that lady (who's that lady)
Beautiful lady (who's that lady)
Lovely lady (who's that lady)
Real fine lady (who's that lady)
Hear me callin' out to you
'Cause it's all that I can do
Your eyes tell me to pursue
But you say look yeah, but don't touch, baby

nah, nah, nah don't touch

Who's that lady (who's that lady)
Sexy lady (who's that lady)
Beautiful lady (who's that lady)
Real fine lady (who's that lady)
I would dance upon a string
Any gift she'd wanna bring
I would give her anything
If she would just do what I say

Come 'round my way, baby
Shine my way

Who's that lady (who's that lady)
Beautiful lady (who's that lady)
Lovely lady (who's that lady)
Real fine lady (who's that lady)
I would love to take her home
But her heart is made of stone
I would keep on keepin' on
If I don't she'll do me wrong

Do me wrong, yeah

Sorry, i had to do it... graemlins/clonk.gif :D

Other than that, great car and nice timeslips!

graemlins/beers.gif
Olli

Slicks?? its possible...hood scoop,very doubtful

Not a hood scoop. I mean a hood. I have no hood. I ran it with no hood. I'm saying that it would probably be more aerodynamic, and create less drag with a hood on it. I plan on purchasing a 4" cowl induction hood soon.

Hey 66, Glasstech makes a nice fiberglass, 4" raised, rear facing open cowl hood which bolts to the factory hinges in the rear and uses the stock latching mechanism in the front. It is a good idea to use lighter than normal springs or none at all to prevent bowing the hood when closed. P.S. Very good times for street tires and 3.55 gears.