Traction with a 496, few questions [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Traction with a 496, few questions


soccerguy045
May 18th, 04, 12:20 AM
Alright, for anyone who hasn't really seen what I will hopefully do this summer, I am thinking about building a 496. My goals are to do this on a decent budget, do EVERYTHING I can to save some on labor, and make the most power I can while being able to cruise on 87 and run on 89, maybe 91 when I go drag. Also, this will be my daily driver (I know, I know..sheesh). I know I'm trying to get the best of all worlds which is a hard thing to do, but I'm really doing my best to research a lot of different angles. I should be getting a decent amount of insurance money this summer (from previous, non-Chevelle wreck) to put in my car. I know the octane restrictions (which are probably the tighest restriction for me) might not make THAT much power but I think with the right set-up it can. Anyway, my question is, do you think the sheer torque of the 496 will require me to do any upgrades to the suspension rather than the stock F41 suspension (SS car)? I don't want to be wheel-hopping or skating all over the place neccisarily (though I could buy slicks for the track, though that would probably cause more hopping and traction problems). I'm already going for an engine, tranny, and rear-end upgrade, and probably won't have money to buy heavy duty aftermarket traction arms and no-hop bars and this and that.

I know I won't produce near enough power (I guess torque is the concern) than a race fuel or blown or gassed engine, but am wondering if I am probably looking into a LOT of problems...or maybe just a few, and if I should just maybe stick with doing a 454 (or 427 would be fun!).

I appreciate all advice. Like I said I'm really trying to research and dig into this so I can make the best calls possible, so as always, thanks for the help!

Bomber '67
May 18th, 04, 4:37 AM
Let me get this straight; you only have budget for a drivetrain - but no budget for suspension? You would be better off to build less of an engine than to retain old suspension. Not that you have to go wild on setup, but at minimum you should get: new bushings, box the lower arms or use aftermarket replacements, use the largest rear sway bar you can fit. Spending more but giving you more would be to get adjustable upper control arms and either the no-hop bars or the SSM lower relocation brackets.

When you finally actually recieve your settlement money - not the amount you think you are geting, but the actual amount after everything - post back with your real budget $. I'm sure that Team Chevelle can help you decide how to best spend it for your goals.

Thomas

mr 4 speed
May 18th, 04, 6:54 AM
At a bare minimum,get Southside Machine/Jegs bars and good shocks,like KYB's.Keep the gear mild too IMHO..no more than 3.42's for a driver.Get DOT tires (Hoosiers or ET Streets) for the track.

CaptCrunch
May 18th, 04, 10:36 PM
Well I guess my first question is how savy are you with a welder and fabricating? I would strongly recomend boxing the uppers/lowers and replacing the bushings all with poly to start. Good shocks like KYB's would be good as well.

I'd also highly recommend the tie in braces. Hotchkis offers some beefy ones for like 100 bucks or so. I'd also suggest a rear sway bar and/or an air bag in the right rear for hard launching.

If you can fabricate then you can fab up relocation for the lower mounts, but you may need to change your pinion angle depending what you do. I do have some nearly new adj. Hotchkis uppers for sale for less then new if interested. Search around... you can find plenty of deals on used stuff.

Big and sticky tires are good too. Unfortunetly the internet and car mags make it seem like power is everything, but power hurts you if all it does is send the tires up in smoke. Good luck with your project.