How To Remove Rust From Seat Frames ? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: How To Remove Rust From Seat Frames ?


Greg
Dec 20th, 07, 10:00 AM
What product should I use to remove any rust from the bottoms of seats (frames, rails, etc)?
Thanks.

-Greg

Jr_Johnston
Dec 20th, 07, 10:38 AM
I sand blast them.And then repaint them.

dyno jonn
Dec 20th, 07, 12:13 PM
Here's a thread all about it on Team Camaro. No waiting.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=118479

64CDNSS
Dec 20th, 07, 2:03 PM
I soak parts in vinegar to remove rust. It takes a bit of time but is safe to work with and dispose of - cheap too. Pickling vinegar is stronger and will work quicker.

1badss396
Dec 20th, 07, 2:34 PM
hydrochloric acid solution=muratic acid found at walmart Lowes, home depot
Works the best and fastest.
Mix muratic acid 50-50 with water water first in bucket then add the muratic acid and use plastic bucket or large tray.
watch your part because it will clean fast do not leave in acid over night because it will etch your good metal you only want it to eat just the rust away.
As soon as its done rinse off with water and have another bucket to dip your part into with mixed Soda ash=baking soda very inportant step here becaus the acid is still etched into your metal the soda ash will neutralize all continous acid residule from further etching your metal.
After dipping parts into soda ash solution rinse your part good with water and air dry or towel or using compressed air blow it dry.
After that its going to flash rust because its raw metal without protection I spray my parts down using Metal prep # 3000 also called Right Stuff De-Ruster Metal Conditioner that you can get a advance discount auto stores. Spray it on kinda heavy covering the entire surface then use a towel to dab all the heavey conditioner off the parts do not wipe it with a towel because if the metal is pitted it will leave lots of lint on your parts and is a PITA to get off. After the metal prep #3000 has dried you can use a green scrubbie pad and prep before using primer or paint.
It sounds like alot of work but you will find out its easy and very fast and the best part is all the parts you do will never rust again.
I have done this step and at the end sprayed just clear coat over the treated metal and it still looks new and that was almost 2 years ago.:yes:

http://www.sunbeltchemicals.com/images/rs3000.jpg (http://www.sunbeltchemicals.com/form3000.htm)

Mr69
Dec 20th, 07, 3:33 PM
Jonesy did it the way I would do it.

quote"I took my seat rails and soaked them in gasoline to get all the grease out of them. I worked them back and forth until they loosened up and were clear of any lubricant etc.

I then bead blasted them and blew them out with an air gun while working them back and forth to make sure all material was out of them. I then soaked them again in gas to make sure they were clean and clear. I then prepped them with 440 solvent and primed and painted them cast gray. I went to the auto store and bought white lithium spray grease, the one with the tube like WD40, and shot that into the tracks and ball bearings. I kept working the grease into the tracks as I moved them back and forth. They are like brand new and glide very smoothly. I also lightly blasted the springs and repainted them yellow. This took me 2 days.

Media will not be an issue if you prep them right."

I don't think I'd use gasoline though. Too flamable. I just run greasy parts thru the jet washer at the machine shop. Fast and cheap considering the time saved. You could have all four seat tracks done at the same time. Takes about 15 minutes and would cost around $10-20.

Bead blasting works fine.

Bear in mind that the seat tracks were not painted originally. They were bare steel.
After prepping them, I like to put a coat of Krylon semi flat black on them. They're not really seen and this helps them blend in with the carpet (if it's black).

As a side note, it's Muriatic acid, not Muratic.

1badss396
Dec 20th, 07, 3:51 PM
Sorry for copy & paste Mr.School teacher:sad:
I spelled it incorrect just for you:rolleyes:

Oh yea and just using sand or bead blasting on the part will not remove 100% of the rust in every nook and cranny just so you know and will leave the part open for future rusting issues.:yes:

Freddy Mercado
Dec 20th, 07, 5:17 PM
I would go the sand blasting route.

Mr69
Dec 21st, 07, 5:23 AM
Oh yea and just using sand or bead blasting on the part will not remove 100% of the rust in every nook and cranny just so you know and will leave the part open for future rusting issues.


Neither of us will live long enough to worry about that.



Glass beading your seat tracks won't hurt them in the slightest.

All this chemical soaking is a waste of time.IMO.

2cool
Dec 22nd, 07, 2:17 AM
Using that vinegar from above connect a battery charger to it and the negative cable to a bolt or what not and electro clean them.

70 Gold Nugget
Dec 22nd, 07, 10:16 PM
Blasting them is the way to go but I have cleaned up many with a wire brush as best possible, treated them with rust neutralizer, and then spray painted them flat black...and that is what I am going to do to my personal seat frames in my "new" old car (70 Camaro) when I get around to it...I'm real queer about springs and tracks...if they are not in super great shape I try and replace them...