I've got the primary float adjusted with no problem on my 750 vacuum secondaries (3310-2). Just dribbles out at idle with a warm engine.

But I run out of adjustment with the secondary float. I screwed the nut all the way down(clockwise) to lower the float and the stud is now flush with the top of the carb. The gas still pours out too fast so I know the float is too high in there. Any suggestions? :confused:

Thanks

Scott,maybe there is a piece of dirt or old gasket stuck in the needle/seat assembly..take it out and blow it with an air hose.

If there's no dirt in there, the float arm is probably bent. You can take the rear bowl off and carefully bend it by hand to get it back in a range that will work. There's only two screws holding the float in. It is a good time to check the needle/seat out too.

Thanks guys. Can I do all this without taking the carb off the intake or must I remove it? If I let it on, any way to catch all the gas when I take it apart? Let a rag soak it up?

Scott

I usually use a cap from a spray paint can to catch the gas when I take the float bowl screws out.

I'll try and get it adjusted tonight. Thanks for the tips.

i bet you have a bad float, after time they can develop pin holes and will get filled with fuel.

An easy way to set the float with the bowl off is to hold everything up side down. You can usually see a faint line on older bowls where the gas comes up to. Line this up with the bottom of the sight hole and your set. I am never more the an 1/4 turn off using this method.

Steve

here's what i'd try to do:

1> inspect for a clogged/bad needle and seat ass'y. look down the bore and check for crud. blow gently in there to make sure it's clean. if good, then...

2> remove the secondary fuel bowl only, use a spray can cap or the like to catch the fuel as it drips out. inspect for a bad float or bent arm. note that if you remove the secondary fuel bowl you may need a new metering block/fuel bowl gasket depending on how long your carb has been together.

to adjust, follow the insructions above about turning it upside down before installing it.

Just make sure they are both Holley products.

Thanks a bunch guys. Took the needle/seat assembly out and blew it with the air compressor as well as down in the float bowl. Put the assembly back in and was able to get it adjusted properly! Is it best to have the fuel level just below the sight hole or should it trickle out at idle on both the primary and secondary side?

I set mine a hair below the sight glass so if I rock the fender slightly, it will dribble out. Note for adjusting the secondary.....Since there is no idle circuit, you must crack the secondaries each time you make an adjustment so the bowl re-fills. Know what I mean? You want the fuel level to go down and then come back up. Unless your seconday throttle blades are open, you are not flowing any fuel from the rear bowl.

Scott,glad to hear it all worked out graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Jim,
Probably a dumb question but how do I "crack the secondaries" on a Holley(first one I've owned)?

On your vacuum secondary carb, you will have to pull up on the vacuum diaphragm that is holding it closed and simply turn the throttle shaft. You may also need to open the primaries to move the seconday linkage. I forget what that setup looks like. Try it with the engine not running first to get them open. It is all mechanical, you'll figure it out.

On the vac sec holley carb you can crack the sec throttle blades on the drivers side of the carb. There is a bit of linkage there that connects to the sec throttle shaft you can move about a 1/4" and rev the engine with between adjustments to use some fuel from the sec bowl.

the secondaries won't open if the primaries are closed. the primaries have a mechanism on he linkage that holds the secondaires closed. this is a failsafe in case for some reason the secondaries won't shut by themselves i think. so, crack the primaries then crack the secondaries by grabbing the linkage arm coming out of the diaphragm ass'y.

remove the slip link if you need to open them for fuel removal from the bowl, or just operate both primary and secondary by hand. The easiest way I've found it to lower the float first then raise it until the fuel is level with the bottokm of the sight hole, this way it cuts down on the amount of fuel running out the sight plug. It's amazing how fuel level changes responsiveness on holley's, I guess the higher the fuel level the sooner it pulls up the main wells and out the boosters.

Originally posted by gasgzlr:
the secondaries won't open if the primaries are closed. the primaries have a mechanism on he linkage that holds the secondaires closed. this is a failsafe in case for some reason the secondaries won't shut by themselves i think. so, crack the primaries then crack the secondaries by grabbing the linkage arm coming out of the diaphragm ass'y. Take a look at this pic and notice the linkage on the sec throttle shaft. The linkage that stops the sec's from opening has enough slack that you can crack the sec's enough to rev the engine and pull fuel out of the bowl. The linkage is setup loose to allow adjustment of the sec throttle blades.

http://www.truckworld.com/How-To-Tech/02_holley_upgrade/lead.jpg

Thanks for all your advice guys. I'm going to get at it tonight and make sure I have it set properly. I did set it the other night but never opened the secondaries. Didn't realize I needed to until Epistuff(Jim) brought it to my attention.
Should the car be running when opening the secondaries or could it be shut off and still get fuel in the bowl by opening the secondaries?

Do you guys make the adjustments on the float with the car running also or do you shut it off, make the adjustment and then restart? I tried adjusting while running but the gas sprays out pretty much unless you kind of spin the nut and screw together.

The engine should be running when you crack the sec's to pull fuel from the bowl. I do the floats with the engine running also but you could shut it down to make the adjustment if you want. You can loosen the screw head and turn the adjustment nut without gas spraying out with the engine running. There is a feel to it that you'll get with practice.

Engine needs to be running when you open the secondaries to get gas to flow, you don't have a double pumper. I adjust mine with it running, but if you have fuel spilling out of the top, try not loosening that screw so much on top. Just enough so the nut will turn without tearing the gasket. Just have to get the feel for it.

**Edit, DjD beat me to it. I type too slow**

I can tell you guys have worked on more than one or two Holleys in your time!! Unlike inexperienced me!(first one) I kindly thank you guys(DjD and Jim) again for your help as I'll be at it tonight. graemlins/thumbsup.gif