When this guy says one of the cyl. Walls has been sleeved what does that mean? When I think of somthing getting a sleeve I think bad, like when something needs new threads and whatnot. Anyway, if anyone know anything about these numbers on the engine let me know.
Thanks,
Phil


"454 casting # 361959 bored .060
lifter bores have been bushed and indexed one cyl has been sleeved block is ready to go has been professionaly filled with block filler deck has been cut for stainless orings"

Also it's a 4 bolt main. Would that be a problem?

What are you wanting to do with it? Street/Strip?

-Resleeving a cylinder isn't a problem if done properly.
-Indexing the lifter bores means that the lifters will be in their proper relationship to the cam (aka better cam timing between cylinders)
- Block professionally filled - if filled to bottom of waterpump holes can be ran on street
- Cut for stainless o rings - Blower maybe??

If you're building a street engine find a "cheaper" block.

Hope this helps

I found a better one close by. It's a 4 bolt also, Im really curious about the 4 bolt mains now, oposed to putting it in to a SBC 2 bolt original set up.
Thanks.... let me know smile.gif

All of the other components will work with either a 2 or 4 bolt block. 4 bolt blocks are generally considered heavier duty, but you can make a whole lotta HP with a 2 bolt. Again it really comes down to what you plan on doing with the car and the combo/HP you're targeting.

What about the engine mounts, would it be tricky to install a 4 main block? I found another 2 blocks, other than the one above. As for what I want to do, a really strong 496 or darn close to it, lots and lots of street use, an every other day driver, a big time performer with very little track time, and some shows here and there for fun. One is:

"THIS IS A REAL NICE 454 4 BOLT CHEVROLET BLOCK, CASTING # IS 3999289 DATE CODE IS C-5-73(MARCH-5-1973). THIS ENGINE WAS A CRATE LS7 THAT I PURCHASED IN 1982 AND INSTALLED IN MY BOAT. I HAD ALL OF THE MACHINE WORK DONE TO RE-ASSEMBLE THIS ENGINE THEN DICIDED TO GET A TALL DECK BLOCK AND GO FOR BIG CUBIC INCHES, MY LOSS YOUR GAIN. THIS BLOCK HAS HAD THE FOLLOWING FRESH MACHINE WORK DONE TO IT, OVEN CLEANED(HAS NO RUST OR SCALE), SHOT PEENED AND MAGNAFLUXED WITH NO CRACKS OR CRACK REPAIR, BORED AND MOLY HONED TO 030 WITH TORQUE PLATES,SONIC CHECKED FOR EVEN CYLINDER WALL THICKNESS, MINIMUM WALL THICKNESS IS .240 (AFTER BORE AND HONE TO.030), LINE BORED , SQUARE DECKED,LIFTER BORES HONED, NEW BRASS FREEZE PLUGS INSTALLED, NEW CAM BEARINGS, HEAD DOWELS AND OIL GALLEY PLUGS INSTALLED, THIS BLOCK NEEDS NO WORK AND IS READY TO ASSEMBLE. ALL BOLT HOLES ARE FINE. HAS NO HELI COILS AND NEEDS NO HELI COILS.THIS BLOCK ALSO HAS THE BIG OIL GALLEYS OVER THE OIL FILTER. I CANNOT STRESS TO YOU ENOUGH THE QUALITY OF THIS PIECE. THIS BLOCK HAS OVER $700.00 IN MACHINE WORK IN IT. "

The same guy has another block 14015445, DATE CODE IS B-27-80(FEBRUARY-24-1980) Which is a standard bore, oven cleaned, super nice looking.

4 bolt refers to the main caps that hold the crankshaft in place. Everything other than the main caps is the same between a 4 bolt and a two bolt block. In other words there is no difference in physically mounting the block in the engine compartment.

To get to a 496 you'll need a 4.25" crank and a .060 over 454 block. You should also go with 6.385" rods and the associated pistons (i.e. SRP pistons). The block will also have to be clearanced for the crank.

pnut, how much does this guy want for this block? He's had just about everything done to it that you'd want (you'd just have to be sure that he can prove that its been done and that the guy who did it knows what he's doing) ;)
I just want to clarify one thing. Why did you ask "What about the engine mounts, would it be tricky to install a 4 main block? " You have made a couple of references to 4 bolt blocks vs. 2 bolt blocks that I haven't quite understood, and I would like to help if I can. Kirk

rpol78 - you beat me to the reply on the diff between 2 & 4 bolt blocks, but there's one thing I disagree on, and that is having to grind for clearance for the 4.25 stroke. I posted questions on this issue myself, and the general response has been that most (if not all) blocks will accomodate 4.25" w/o grinding. Please let me know if I am mistaken, Kirk.

The difference between 2 and 4 bolt Engines I wasnt sure on. I thought it was a pysical thing, 2 mounts on each side vs 4 mounts on each corner, it doesnt work this way I guess. I havent built an engine from scratch, just rebuilds so im looking forward to learning alot of big and little things. Im not sure what he wants for the blocks yet, I hope it isnt an arm and leg smile.gif I saw a couple photos, looks like brand spankin' new. He's a little over 2 hours away too so we wouldnt have to crate it up, that saves quit a bit of cash. I know I need a 4.25 Crank, the whole clearance thing, how much clearence are we talking? Machine shop work, or something that can be done at home? tongue.gif
Rods and pistons im new to that section of the engine so i'll keep in mind on the 6.385 rods, is that the only size that will fit or work for a 496 build? Or is that what works best? This block is the only thing I really have to "BUY" now that I work at an auto store, good and bad... guess where all the paychecks go smile.gif
I sure see alot of 454's .30 over like the one this guy has. If I can get his standard bore cheaper maybe I should get that one since I have to pay for the machine work anyways? Or just stay with .30 over? Make a 489 or something... We'll see :eek:

pnut, look at the pics I have posted on the site linked in my sig line. Look at the first picture of my block. It shows the bottom end very clearly. You'll notice that the 5 main caps have 4 bolts each that hold them to the block (2 and 2 on each). This is the only difference between the 2 and 4 bolt setup. Externally, they are identical. BTW, a 2 bolt can be drilled and converted to accomodate 4 bolt caps without much difficulty, but you may not need it. You can push a 2 bolt small block to 550 hp without failure by replacing the bolts with studs, and you can do a lot more than that with a big block 2 bolt. You may not need this, depending on your hp goals. Also, .030 over is just fine (some will go 0.125 over) and I really don't think you will have clearance problems installing a 4.25 stoke crank. Hope this helps, Kirk

Kirk, You may be right on not having to clearance. I have heard both. I thought it depended on the block/rods. I've heard the same thing on 383s that there are certain blocks that you don't have to clearance for. Someone else that's been there/done that may want to chime in on this one.

pnut, on the rods, you can run 6.135 rods but if you search on the posts you'll find that most of the guys prefer the +.25 rods. They give a better stroke to rod ratio which allows the piston to stay at the top a little longer (aka more power). I have an article where Lingenfelter built a 496 with 2 bolt block, stock 3/8 bolt rods (upgraded rod bolts) and was getting 612hp out of it at 6000 rpms using oval port heads (probably 781s) with oversize valves and pocket porting. No clearancing was required for the build up.