I recently bought a 71 402 motor which needed a few parts. Not even thinking about trying my parts store, I started looking online for what I needed.

For example, I needed a water pump, and unless I was looking at the wrong ones on the online sites, they were around $100. I ended up getting this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140187731090&rd=1) on ebay for around $28, and I don't even know if it's the correct one!

Today I went in my local Pepboys, to buy a puller to get the balancer off of my crankshaft. I'm friends with the guy that works there, and we were BSing for a bit and I asked him about a water pump. They have them and they are $12.00!!!

Guess I'll be checking there first from now on (I also bought a wheel cylinder, for a 67, and it was $19. I think they are in the $30's online

I bought a small block water pump at Oreilly for $15. Advance wanted $35. Seems like a big difference considering both are the large chain-type stores. Oreilly even gave a lifetime warranty with it.

people forget about the lil stores

I paid $35 for my big block water pump from Advance auto. I usually only use ebay for hard to find stuff. Big block water pumps can still be bought new thru Summit too.

Of course cheap isn't always better as places like Advance and Autozone sell Chineese made rebuilt crap.

You know I have found that the WP is about the only thing that works for that. :wacko: I tried to get a master cylinder for my Trans Am (96) and Nobody within 50 miles had it in stock. I ended up ordering it from rock auto and saving $46. I like to use the local guys when I can. I wish Baxter auto parts (a Portland OR area chain) was closer than 75 miles. They were within a dollar of the online stuff for rotors and stocked them. Well they didn't have the back ones, they were in the warehouse and it took 3 hours to get them. :cool: I was working so they were there before I got off work (ANG drill) :thumbsup:

I got the following parts from O'Reilly's for next to nothing:

calipers
rotors
centerlink
water pump
alternator
washer pump


that's just off the top of my head

When I did the Disc Brake conversion on my '67 Cutlass, I got new master cylinder, new rotors, semi-metallic pads, NEW calipers with hardware, bearings, races, seals, etc from NAPA.

Everything in stock and the total conversion cost me about $200.00. Done in 1 day, and it works great. I used the manual drum brake master cylinder, and NO proportioning valve, BTW. It stops like it has power disc brakes! :hurray:

I must've got lucky!:D


Randy

When I did the Disc Brake conversion on my '67 Cutlass, I got new master cylinder, new rotors, semi-metallic pads, NEW calipers with hardware, bearings, races, seals, etc from NAPA.

Everything in stock and the total conversion cost me about $200.00. Done in 1 day, and it works great. I used the manual drum brake master cylinder, and NO proportioning valve, BTW. It stops like it has power disc brakes! :hurray:

I must've got lucky!:D


Randy

Wow, I've always wanted to do that conversion to my 67, but thought my only route would be one of those $600-700 'kits'. I'm going to have to look into that, if I can figure out exactly what I'll need. I'll probably be needing that extra stopping power once I drop this big block in :yes:

Wow, I've always wanted to do that conversion to my 67, but thought my only route would be one of those $600-700 'kits'. I'm going to have to look into that, if I can figure out exactly what I'll need. I'll probably be needing that extra stopping power once I drop this big block in :yes:

But he didn't say if he got new spindles there or if he had to revert to a boneyard crawl, so keep that in mind. And yes discs can help stop big blocks. I had my car converted to discs, the front kit with spindles, rotors, pads, calipers, lines was $550. Then I reused the original brake booster and got a new master cylinder and proportioning valve.

I went to Advance Auto and got all the steering and suspension parts for the Charger right off the shelf, cheaper than anywhere else and they were all Moog/TRW parts. I also got the alternator, belts, hoses, disc pads, rear shoes, hardware kit, wheel cylinders, U joints, electronic ignition control box, fuel pump, wheel bearings & seals, master cylinder, header gaskets, calipers, front and rear brake hoses, etc. at either Advance or the mom & pop auto parts store I like to go to.

I should get my mail delivered to the mom & pop auto parts store in town since I'm in there so often! He can still get MANY parts for my '71 and since this is the "what's it worth" forum, here are a few things to consider that you really can't put a value on:
*Most guys owning these local stores are old enough to have direct experience with the cars we're working on
*If you build up a good relationship with the owners they will take extra time for you and go above and beyond to help you source what you need
*If you're unsure about a specific application you can build up a level of trust that you won't find anywhere else.
And besides...I'm all about helping my local economy. Hands down it's a win-win.

Yeah and the sad thing is the ma and pa stores are quickly fading into obscurity. Much like the full service gas stations.

I just ordered my hurst installation kit from Advance Auto yesterday afternoon because it was cheaper $117 and free shipping and they just called me to tell me its ready for pick up at my local store and this part came from Tennessee now thats quick...