I talked to Harold a bit ago at the possibly of me getting the cam and he said it was a good choose for me. Well with the unparalleled generosity of a TC board member I received the 272 H10 today. It will be going into a 350 I am rebuilding in class for my 71. Will be just a recondition of the bottom end with the addition of new pistons that will be around 9.1 to my 76cc heads ( pos smog truck heads). I think they will let me dyno it at school after I am done so I will post info on the build. WOOOOO a UD cam!

Thanks to Juan today I recived:
272 H10 cam
HL1817 lifters
943.16 (1.260) springs
Rs07125 retainters
L071132 Locks

I also had a stupid question. For this cam I just use basic stock length push rods correct? ALso is there anything special I should know about with the install?

Yup, stock length IF you don't have any major milling/decking, etc. I bought an inexpensive Manley tool to check length, but you can do it visually ( I couldnt with roller rockers, but I'm not experienced).

Follow the install/breakin guidelines ( 30W, EOS, etc)and I would bother with degreeing the cam, even if its only Harold's quick and dirty method of watching #1 valves when you approach #6 TDC. Both intake and exhaust the same distance from the cylinder head = straight up, intake closer than the exhaust = advanced ( you want to be about .050" closer), exhaust closer than the intake = retarded ( no go). Once you see the valve action as you roll the motor over, it becomes really obvious as to where you want it to be.

Good luck and have fun with it!

Originally posted by 427L88:
and I would bother with degreeing the cam, even if its only Harold's quick and dirty method of watching #1 valves when you approach #6 TDC. Both intake and exhaust the same distance from the cylinder head = straight up, intake closer than the exhaust = advanced ( you want to be about .050" closer), exhaust closer than the intake = retarded ( no go). Once you see the valve action as you roll the motor over, it becomes really obvious as to where you want it to be.

LOL you lost me, so are you saying straight up or advanced? smile.gif

I found some 882 heads but need a very bad clean up if they are salvageable will use them and get a little extra power over my truck heads.

Advanced. 4-6 degrees. The cam card should say " Install at XXX intake centerline "" and that tells you what the cam designer wanted it intalled at.

If its a 110 LSA cam and the card says to install at a 104 ICL ( intake centerline ), then the cam designer wants you to make sure the cam has 6 degrees of advance relative to the crank, i.e. installed in the motor with 6 degrees advance. The 'rough' measurement of having the intake .050" closer to the head than the exhaust will get you darn close to 6 degrees.

Some cams have advance ground into then, some have the locating pin with 2 degrees, etc. The only way to know exactly is to put the cam in, with your timing set, and begin to measure when the valves open and close.

Be careful of wording here. Some guys say "its in straight up" which only means they used the O advace keyway on the crank gear. The cam may be ground with advance already in it, so its not 'straight up', it's +4. Keep it simple: all this talk of 'straight up" etc, is irrelevant unless the cam has actually been degreed in, i.e. measured.

If your shop teacher is into it, use a degree wheel and dial indicator, by all means!

I did it the quick-n-dirty way first, and then checked with a wheel. Spot on. Without fumbling with a degree wheel and dial indicator, I kept changing the position of the cam bushing until I got the intake valve down closer to the head, ( i.e. open more). Then I checked with a wheel. Really made it easy actually.

the cam is 110 lobe and it says "degree intake lobe to 104" is that what you are talking about?

This is my first cam install and I am not up on all the correct verbiage ( but learning). This is a college course 8 unit class on engine building so we do have most* tools like a dial indicator.