electronic q-jet help [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: electronic q-jet help


ezstriper
Dec 11th, 07, 10:52 AM
I know this is not a chevelle question, but hoping someone can help me out on this, have 87 monte carlo ss, rebult the electronic Q-Jet because of leaking main wells and bad accel pump, used a delco kit, now can't get this thing to idle. anything above 1000 RPM runs fine, smooth....idle down starts surging and stalls, will not idle when you drop in gear, this was not a issue before I fixes it !!! yea I know...had the top back off twice rechecked found nothing ??? revs fine, plugs are out so you can adj and I have the tools, anybody run into one of these ?? I know they used the carb on these and camaro's, thanks for any help, Rob

Wooderson
Dec 11th, 07, 11:55 AM
Personally, I would put a non-electronic Q-Jet and non-computer distributor on your engine. Way less hassle. Then you don't have to deal with the car's computer as it's out of the equation.

77 cruiser
Dec 11th, 07, 6:55 PM
Sound like a vac. leak or something in the idle circuit. Is the body to base gasket the same as the old one? Give blast of air through the idle circuits.

LeoP
Dec 11th, 07, 8:56 PM
Rob, c'mon over to www.montecarloss.com and ask the question. I am sure someone over there can point you in the right direction. I am not much of a carb person and sent mine to customrebuiltcarbs.com to get it done right. I have an 86 Monte Carlo SS and am there as 86ttop.

BillK
Dec 11th, 07, 9:52 PM
Personally, I would put a non-electronic Q-Jet and non-computer distributor on your engine. Way less hassle. Then you don't have to deal with the car's computer as it's out of the equation.

I dont know why you guys have this feeling about electronic parts.Taking them off is just taking a step backwards. They are better than the non electronic parts but you have to buy the correct tools to set them up, including a scanner. Besides the fact that it is against Federal Emissions laws :(

Rob,
Did you soak the entire carb in carb cleaner ? If so you have to replace the o-rings in the air bleed adjuster in the top of the carb. This requires drilling out the rivets that hold the cover in place. There is also a special tool set to adjust the TPS and the air bleeds. I just did the carb on my Wifes 84 Riviera and it works flawlessly. It had the same problems as yours before I went through it. I do have a scanner to check and adjust the mc solonoid dwell, and I bought the tool for adjusting the tps. Without these tools, you will never get it to run properly, especially at idle.

Erics69
Dec 11th, 07, 10:33 PM
Thats just it, electronic carburetors were made only to comply with emission standards and fuel economy requirements of the time. (electronic carbs didn't do any better than non electronic at either) You have very limited tuneabality with electronic carbs and for the hassel of the ecm and junt computerized distributor. Even if you live in a state with emmissions tests, unless they pop the hood they will never notice the difference.

Wooderson
Dec 11th, 07, 11:30 PM
Bill, most guys on here have modified cars, so the lecture on federal laws doesn't mean much. :)

Why in the world would a guy want his car any more complicated than it has to be. I have seen my share of these 1980s examples of cars that should have went straight to fuel injection. Archaic "technology" that if you took it to a GM dealership, the guys would just put a rebuilt or new unit on instead of trying to find out what's wrong with it.

chevymad
Dec 12th, 07, 12:16 AM
If he's running an auto which I'm sure he is, he'll need the ecm. Either that or he'll have to take a step backwards and hook up a vacuum switch, brake switch etc for the convertor lockup. Without lockup the trans doesnt lube od correctly, or run as much oil through the cooler.

There are alot more adjustments that can be made to an electronic carb over the old one. The idle circuit can be set for most anything since you have both the regular mixture screws and the idle air bleed. You can also adjust the primary mixture by moving the lean and rich stops slightly. I like to set my primary's basically stock for a lean cruise(get 29mpg with my 327). You can then change the rods in the secondarys to the rich side and get your WOT afr down where you want it. On the dyno I had 12:1 afr set this way just making a guess at rods. Another big advantage to the electronic carb is the ignition setup. It's basically the same as the later EFI units. My 87 uses the same distributor, has a knock sensor etc. The ecm will even make adjustments for altitude changes. I've run my car both ways with this motor and I like the computer setup better. The convertor lockup is definatly much nicer then the old way(which i have on my truck)

ezstriper
Dec 12th, 07, 7:58 AM
well this car a 87 monte carlo aero coupe all original one owner(before me) low milage car, so I do not want to modify it, kills the value as well as the emissions legallity, and we do have emissions in virgnia. I did not soak the carb, just used spray cleaner, have had it apart 3 more times, did blow out idle circut, someone had been into before me and the cover over the air bleed had already been removed, have a dwell meter on the conector, set at the 30 as they say, when it get erractic and stalls dwell drops to about 20, I only took this apart to replace the accel pump, non GM peice that did not work well, just went ahead and replaced needle seat, gaskets etc., I did match them up and they were the same ???? got me...it did run fine before I tok it apart aside from hesitating..thanks Rob

Wooderson
Dec 12th, 07, 10:51 AM
Anyway, I hope you get it sorted out. I've always liked the aero coupes. I've only seen a few.

LeoP
Dec 12th, 07, 9:55 PM
www.customrebuiltcarbs.com is your answer, I used them for my carb and Phil even called me to find out what I wanted to do to the carb. It looks and performs like new.

Tom Mobley
Dec 13th, 07, 12:12 AM
lift the top again and inspect the area at the idle feed tubes and down wells. there's a couple different top gaskets depending on the shape of that area. some of them have sort of a slot that points out at an angle towards the booster venturiis, other have the standard round holes. And, what Bill said about the O-rings on the idle bleed. Also check carefully for an unrelated vacuum leak accidentally created during the R&R.

gnicholson
Dec 13th, 07, 1:23 AM
ive done a lot of these carbs. i still have all the special tools from burroughs specific to these carbs. i dont really have anything to add that tom didnt say . you must have disturbed or changed something.these carbs with the right tuning and special proms worl really well