: New Connecting Rods - H or I beam?
kjett Oct 31st, 04, 8:04 PM I will be pulling my engine to freshen up the short block in the next couple of weeks (4 years, 5k street miles and 340 passes). I didn't want to put any more money into the existing rods having them rebuilt (LS-7 rods). I'm wondering whether it would be best to go with H beam or I beam rods? I'm leaning towards H beam rods and have been looking at the following manufacturers - Lunati, Crower and Oliver. It looks like most companies rate their H beam rods at 750-800HP, and that should be sufficient for my application. It also looks like the H beam rods are lighter than their I beam counter parts by 50-60 grams per rod on average. Max RPM will be 7k. What are you guys using and why? I would like to keep the rotating weight as low as possible without compromising the strength of the rod. I will be using a stock 6.135" rod with my Lunati Racer Series crank and Wiseco pistons.
P.S. I will only consider buying American made.
Thanks.
Schurkey Oct 31st, 04, 9:56 PM I would have expected that I beam (stock type) would be much lighter than H beam (Carrillo type.)
You're doing yourself and the nation a favor by not installing offshore junk.
Bob West Oct 31st, 04, 10:01 PM The guy thats going to be building my new engine also said that I beam rods were lighter, I asked the same question about H beam rods.
jakeshoe Oct 31st, 04, 10:42 PM Yeah,
I-beams are almost always lighter than a comparable H-beam. Even if the weight is the same an I-beam has a lighter reciprocating weight.
I prefer an I-beam...
Oliver Parabolic I-beams are nice...
Redmanf1 Oct 31st, 04, 10:43 PM In my opinion I think that the Oliver rods are one of the best on the market. That's what's in my 572. My next choice would be Lunati. I believe in pay a little more first then to pay allot more later. Cheap insurance on a big dollar motor.
JOHN WILSON Oct 31st, 04, 10:58 PM Ken, I may be out to lunch here but most all of the h-beam rods I've seen begin life in China with the exception of Carillo. Also, I believe the other fella's have it right with I beams being lighter on average. I've got a new small block going together with some Lunati Pro-Billet rods that weigh in at 613gms compared to the current Eagle H-beams in my 422 that weigh 660gms. If I were in your shoes I would not overlook either a Lunati Pro-Mod rod or Crower Sportsman. Both would be excellent choices for a stout non-nitrous BBC.
kjett Oct 31st, 04, 11:10 PM Hmm... Maybe just the lunati rods have it backwards?
Here is a link to a Lunati Sportsman H beam BBC rod that weighs 785 grams:
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECCR/fHBeam.html
And here's a link to a Lunati Pro-Billet I beam rod that weighs 830 grams:
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECCR/Billet.html
:confused:
DragRacer Oct 31st, 04, 11:26 PM Ken,
For what you do and what your combo is, I would look into the Crower Sportsman rods as the best bang for the buck. They are rated for 850 HP @ 8500 RPM. They are made in America and can be had for about $650. Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet usually has real good pricing on these rods.
Here are the other choices as I see it. No particular order. All have a good reputation and most run in the 830-840 gm range.
If money is no object steel rods don't get any nicer than the Oliver Parabolic beam billet steel rods. Oliver also offers a forged I-beam. Check with Mike Lewis (Wolfplace) or Lukovich Performance for best pricing. The Oliver forged rod is down around 800 grams I believe.
Lunati offers a forged "Pro-Mod" I-beam rod which runs about $760 and a billet I-beam for around $1000. Jim Cook Performance and Lukovich usually are very competitive on Lunati stuff.
As John mentioned the only H-beam rod that is truly "All-American" from start to finish is Carrillo. Even Lunati's start life over the pond and are finish machined here.
For what it's worth I've got a set of Lunati Pro-billets as well for my new engine.
Hope this Helps.
Wolfplace Nov 1st, 04, 12:12 AM With stock type or stock replacement type like the Manley Sportsmaster's, the H beam is usually lighter in a BB at about 800 or a little under
The stock rods are around 830 or so.
If you go to the Pro series Manley's they are in the 770 range. but they are about $1100
Good I beams like Oliver are stronger than an H beam by design but it is probably kind of academic as they are all extremely strong.
I never could understand how any of these guys could rate a rod by HP considering it isn't HP that kills rods (except maybe in Top Fuel :D ) it is usually piston weight & RPM.
Oliver's billets are about the same weight as the H beam stuff at 800 give or take for a 6.135.
The forged are also right at 800.
I personally don't think there is a better rod out there than the Oliver but they ain't real cheap ;)
Ken, If you are interested in Oliver's, email me & I will see what I can do, should be able to save you a buck or two,,,
Thanks Jason, just read your post graemlins/beers.gif
pcs0snq Nov 1st, 04, 10:22 PM Hey Mike, I'm looking at fixing the mains on my 555 this winter plus a few other things. Steel rods... Trying to see if I should spend money to replace. My +250 steel rods have maybe 800 passes. 7500rpms max bob is 2301g. These rods where sold by Summit years ago but look like Oliver's. Made by Power Detroit. If the big end bores are not distortion at all, ie the inserts look perfect after use... am I safe to run them more? Also the wrist pins... I used the C&A wall tapper wall tool steel pins. Should I replace them if they still look ok? Maybe I should have the x-rayed for hidden issues?? Any suggestions. Thanks in advance
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