Looking to either rebuild a 454 truck motor that came with project or buy year correct motor built. Found this one at a reputable builder.

Engine 3869854 To709JC Heads 3931063 4/30/69

The engine will be placed in a really nice 69 SS that retains the original 4 speed transmission and rear end. My question is whether it is worth $900 more to put in the "correct" motor with more desirable heads or build the 454 w/p nut heads.

I can have the 454 built nicely for $2000 or buy the 69 motor with correct valve covers for $3000. I know the guy who will build the 454 and trust the build of the 396 so there is no need to discuss the internals.

I'll give my opinion.

Practically speaking, the 454 is a better choice. Bigger cubes, $1000 cheaper etc.

But that's practicality.

In my opinion from the gut, I always shy away from car's with motors that were never offered in them originally.

There's no sound reason for it but I do.

In a non numbers matching car, it always sounds better, and is better in my opinion, to have an Era correct engine.

Those car's came with 396's. $1k to make the car an era correct and optional 396/350 is worth every penny.

It takes it from a builder, to an Era correct restoration in my book.

I'd do it even if it's worth nothing more than a gut feel, and knowing you did it correct.

I know your not building this car to sell it John, but if and when you do, you'll get that 1K back easily when you can describe it as an era correct JC code396/350.


Unless you want to build a 600HP Street thumper with Cragers and 10" Street Slicks in the back, I'd build it as painfully correct as you can afford.

Right down to the 3931067 Intake and 7029215 Rochester carb. :thumbsup:

John I knew this was coming and as always thanx for the support . I have been fighting with the decision all day. To buy the 69 motor it means making the committent to do it all correct. Distributor,a/c brackets, intake ,carb,radiator,water pump,ps,fuel filter and lines and so much more. My $1k difference turns into $2K. Doing it half way would only make the motor a mute point. In the end the car will be as they say"All dressed up and nowhere to go." In East Texas a car has to be driven to be enjoyed, much of the time long distances. As I love a car taken to the level of yours I have to be realistic why I want to go thru this again: To build a car for Me.

The decision is 50/50 now but carries a no lose clause as it will be a nice car either way.

:yes:

I'll give my opinion.

Practically speaking, the 454 is a better choice. Bigger cubes, $1000 cheaper etc.

But that's practicality.

In my opinion from the gut, I always shy away from car's with motors that were never offered in them originally.

There's no sound reason for it but I do.

In a non numbers matching car, it always sounds better, and is better in my opinion, to have an Era correct engine.

Those car's came with 396's. $1k to make the car an era correct and optional 396/350 is worth every penny.

It takes it from a builder, to an Era correct restoration in my book.

I'd do it even if it's worth nothing more than a gut feel, and knowing you did it correct.

I know your not building this car to sell it John, but if and when you do, you'll get that 1K back easily when you can describe it as an era correct JC code396/350.


Unless you want to build a 600HP Street thumper with Cragers and 10" Street Slicks in the back, I'd build it as painfully correct as you can afford.

Right down to the 3931067 Intake and 7029215 Rochester carb. :thumbsup:

You can have a street thimper without slicks, and I think that if you want the 454 then go for it. If you want the 396 go for that one. Buying the 396 doesn't mean you have to buy all the "correct" parts for it. Build it how you wnat it and like you said a car has to be driven to be fun- so drive it.

Really, after the Block, Heads, intake and carb, the costs will be the same.

All aftermarket at that point.

My guess is, building it either correct or for performance, is going to cost the same.

Either a 4 core reproduction Radiator, or the Aluminum one.

Either a correct repro Alternator, or a Chrome one.

Drivability will be no less with correct components, and cost will likely be the same.

Keep in mind, when I say correct, reproduction is more than fine, not correct original.

I do wholeheartedly agree however, that you should build it the way you want it.


It's just that a correct, bone stock, Big Block engine compartment is so Damn pretty John. :D Look:

buy the 454 and make it look like the CORRECT 396
cant be that hard..
best of both worlds

if it aint #matching.. the correct cid for that year means nothing to anyone..

Nothing to anyone -1 :thumbsup: