I was adjusting my valves last night on my motor before installing it using the EO/IC method.I have Moroso stud girdles which use U bolts which wrap around the locks and tighten thru the bar. Anyway, when I adjust the valves and then tighten the u-bolt the adjustment gets looser by maybe 3 to 5 thousandths. I'm very carful to tighten the u-bolts evenly but the adjustment still creeps open. I can get the right adjustment by anticipating the change but it is a pain. Do you have experience w/ this system and is this normal?? Should I scrap them and if so what is the best set up to use? Thanks in advance for your response.

I'm not Mike :D But, I can tell you they all do that .Try using a gage a little smaller and when you tighten the bar you may get the lash your looking for........I have yet to use a girdle that doesn't change lash somewhat when its tightened . BTW, I use the firing order to adjust valves, I think Mike does too!

Yup, When I had them, they did that too. And had to adjust as Joe said.

I ran the valves using the EO/IC method because I'm more familiar w/ that approach and my motor has a roller cam so I'm not as concerned w/ the cam beinga problem @ startup. Could you answer concerning the firing order method? Am I correct in assuming that as long as you have the mark set on TDC and both valves are loose on # 1 you can begin running the valve adjustmet in firing order. I always get concerned that I'm not on the right stroke to start the process so I go back to the EO/IC method.

As long as you are at TDC on the cylinder you are adjusting and both valves are closed on the comp. stroke you set the lash at that point. Ex.#1 is at TDC,both valves closed,adjust there. Go to number 8,90 degrees of crank rotation ,adjust there and so forth.Make yourself a remote starter switch and it will make the job a lot easier.If you bump with the remote switch to get it close, you can use a socket and handle on the crank bolt to get it right on! :cool:

you must go 2-5 thousnads tighter when using girdles cause when you tighten the girdles it puls everything into line and some will clatter ..

Twc,
Thats about right. After the first few you get the "feel" for how far it is going to move when you tighten it and adjust accordingly. Almost all stud girdles do this. Loosen the u-bolts as little as possible ... just enough to move the adjusters. The amount of change varies considerably from head to head, depending on how far out of "whack" the rocker studs are for the correct locations.

I have a pair of the gold BB moroso stud girdles I picked up for the simple reason I got them REAL!! cheep. Guess they'll work with the locks that came with the crane gold rockers I have.

Are these decent quality?

Thanks!! Kevin

Usually the locks that work with stud girdles are longer than the ones that come with the rockers, my builder used a Jomar stud girdle on mine,the locks are at least twice as tall.

Sorry for the delay in answering, I have been gone since last Wed. to the AETC conference & am still catching up on emails & phone calls,,, but it looks like your question has been answered already graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Just to add, first I don't really like the stud girdles that have the "u" bolts, I prefer the double bar style like Crane etc.
Also, don't try to just adjust a few thou tight as some will change more than others & I have seen some actually loosen :(

I normally use the firing order when I build an engine & after break-in use the EO/IC method.
Both work but I prefer to check using the EO/IC method for the final adjustment & when redoing the valves. I find it easier as all you need to do is have a remote starter button, a feeler gauge & the knowledge of which valve is intake & which is exhaust.

I have two Crane multi bar units... used one on my last 327 and one on my BBC and that dont move anywhere near those amounts.From adj to rechecking after tightening the bar it's less than .001.

To me it seems the multi bar units " Clamp " around the stud where as with the u bolt type the u bolts seem to try to pull the stud twords the bar when tightening... that seems to account for some of the
weird lash readings..... Years ago a friend had one of the u bolt types and had problems with it also...
He hated it ... switched to a multi bar and those problems went away....