Might be a dumb question, but I can't find the answer. When changing the fluid on a Ford 9-inch, do I need to just unbolt the 3rd Member and it simple falls out of the housing? I don't need to back off the axles do I?

Thanks!

Alan

I don't know if you have to crack the 3rd member to change the fluid, but its possible.

IF you have to take the 3rd member out you'll need to take off the wheels and unbolt the axles and pull em out a couple of inches to disengage the 3rd member. Then unbolt the nuts on the front and move the member back jus a tad and let it drain.

Now after racking my brain, it depends on the 3rd member or type of 9inch you have. Some of the aftermarket stuff has a drain on the bottom and a plug on the top to add new. Most of the stocker ones I ever dealt with only had the plug on the top and I'd either have to crack the 3rd member as outlined above or use a pump. Cracking the 3rd member was definately easier, however it involved replacing the gasket and cleaning the surfaces which was a little extra work.

I welded a short 3/8" NPT bung on the bottom of my housing, drilled it out and tapped it, plugged it with some white Locktite and a plug. A buddy showed me how. It dosent leak a drop!!

Thanks guys! I have a Currie Enterprises 9-inch I bought as a complete assembly. I don't remember seeing a drain plug on the housing or 3rd member :( . I'll crawl under and check again, but I might have to go the route of backing off the axles.

The plug on the housing sounds like the way to go smile.gif

What do you do to control the wheel hop? I am considering changing over from my 12 bolt to a 9" and now use "s" bars on the upper control arms.

I have a Currie 9", and just swapped gears a few weeks ago. If you have never pulled a third member on a 9'', your in for a treat. Axels slide back and out of the rear no problem, just back out the four bolts on the plates. If you intend to replace the gasket, the third member will have to come all the way off and out to allow you to clean up the mating surfaces and to get the new gasket over the housing studs. If it's just a fluid change I would seek out a little vac pump, even PAY to have the fluid replaced at a shop equipped to do so. Wrestling that third member off the studs is a chore, it must come back and off completly square or it will bind up and cause you much greif. You can unbolt the drive shaft at the rear joint and wire it to the rear crossmember, up and out of your way and save the mess of the trans fliud coming out of your tail shaft. If you do pull the rear, make use of a good floor jack and a friend to help out! The damn things are heavy and hard to handle. I would put in a good synthetic gear oil and hope not have to wash the old lube out of your hair:) Ah..............the smell of old gear lube in the morning!!!!! Have fun!

He, He!!

I absolutely loved R&R'ing my tranny and rear's lubes in my car as well as my old beater '80 C/10 P/U!!

NOT!!!!!!!!

After all these years, I finally broke down a bought a cheap "grease-gun housing" type "Suction-Gun" from HFT for about $5.00 plus S&H.

Best darn thing I have bought in A LONG TIME!!! And I don't care if I don't use it again in 10 years!!! It's paid for itself!!

pdq67