Hello all,

I'm not really sure which section to post this question in, and after doing a forum wide search for any articles related to towing and not finding any info, I figured I'd start here.

The second week of January I am planning on towing my 1967 2 door Chevelle hardtop 2 hours away from where she currently is, and I want to be sure I do it right the first time so she doesn't end up coming off the trailer and onto the highway. Since I don't have the money for a winch, I'm planning on using a come along to pull her up onto the trailer, then securing her with axle straps and ratcheting tie downs.

For starters, I'm wondering what my 67 Chevelle weighs, and after reading various articles, I'm guessing somewhere between 3,500 & 4,000 lbs.

What type of (as in weight limit, strap length, etc) come along, ratcheting tie downs and axle straps have people used with good success?

I'm also wondering whether to use tow cable or a tow chain with the come along. Which is better/safer? What load capacity?

Thank you all in advance for any info you can give,

Michou

ive used a cain and pulled it up on the trailer and then i used the axle straps that wrap round the rear on the back and used straps on the front

I prefer to tie the car down, Not the axles. Why? For a short haul this means nothing. For a long haul with the axles tied down. The complet suspension is working. Find a car carrier that is unloading and ask him for the short tie-downs. ( 4 ) Look on any car and you will find oval holes punched in the frame, Two in frt. and two in back. This is how the auto Mfg. designed the vehicle to be tied down while in transport.
The tie down areas on the frame of any car will take the stress of being tied down. I would use nothing less than a 2" wide strap or 3/8" Chain. One strap or chain on each corner of your car. The two front tie-downs pull towards the rear--The rear tie-downs pull tp the front.
Or have all four tie downs pulling away from each other. Four -2" straps will hold 10.000 Lbs each. Or 40.000 Lbs. If an emergency happens, You want the car to stay with and on the trailer, NOT in your back-seat. For a close to perfect set-up, You should have 10% of the car and Tlr. gross weight on your Reciever Hitch (No Ball on the bumper stuff) Also if you do not have ALL the safty Equipement,-- Ele. Brakes and controler--Brake-away system--Safety Chains--Proper lighting--
DO NOT LEAVE YOUR HOUSE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I live near Butler, Pa. Two years ago a chipper broke loose and hit a mini van-- Killed the father and THREE of his 4 Children, All under 6 Yrs old.
Take your time and do it RIGHT.
Bob

Besides strapping the car down correctly, make sure it is loaded on the trailer properly as well. DO NOT load the car backwards. Doing so results in increased tail weight on the trailer and that's when bad things happen. Also make sure there is not to much tongue weight on the truck, IE the trucks bumper should not be ridiculously close to the ground. Make sure the brakes on the trailer are working properly also be it surge or electric, and if they are electric, make sure the brake controlloer in the truck is leveled and working correctly.

I have pulled my 64 C10 up onto my trailer with a come-along. It works fine. I just looped an axle strap around the front bumper and pulled it on up. No problem. I got all my axle straps and tie downs from Northern Tool & Equipment (they have a store right near my house). For towing 2 hours, it's perfectly fine to loop axle straps around the lower control arms at the front, and around the rear end housing at the back.

If the car has a working transmission you can put in Park and/or a functional emergency brake, you'll be fine tied down like that.

My 69 weighs 3800 with a 220 pound driver on the dragstrip scales. I would be really surprised if your car weighed more than 3600 with no driver.

my 67 is 3490#. I've used an electric winch to get it onto my trailer, when she used to be a 'car show queen'... i've used a really heavy strap over the rear diff housing in the back, which was connected to chains back to tie down points at the rear of the trailer, in the front i used two come-alongs to short straps around the lower control arms... to get the car onto the trailer i had a heavy s-hook that put into the engine cross member hole that is under the oilpan area. once you get it up onto the trailer block the rear tires so you have no accidents until you are tied down and have set the car in position fairly balanced on the trailer, put it in park, e-brake it, you will want 10-15% tongue weight (relative to towing weight, car + trailer) so it really shouldnt cause your truck to drag in the back!

your trailer will need to have brakes, and test them out before you load the car, try towing at gradually increasing speeds and if you get any swaying you might be too light on the tongue and will need to readjust... if it starts swaying bad, apply only the trailer brakes (they should 'drag' the tow vehicle) to help straighten it out... i had my car/trailer start swaying on me on the way to a car show in MN and it wasnt a fun experience -seeing you car come in out of your side mirrors!!

ak

I've dont it both ways many times and actually, I think is safer for a first timer to tow a car on a rental tow dollie than a trailer - especially if the towing vehicle is marginally up to the task. Properly working brakes and overall loaded trailer balance are the most important things to be sure of pulling a trailer weighing a total of 3 to 4 tons, loaded. With the tow dollies, you have a lower center of gravity and way less weight to stop. The good rental ones also have surge brakes built in to help keep the towed vehicle behind you. Just don't get into a spot where you have to back up more than a couple of feet! OLDED

Just remember 67 dont have a locking steering coloum, so I dont advice using a car dolly.

You do not want a steering lock engaged using a tow dollie. The steering needs to be able to follow the turns and recover after turns. Some dollies do pivot at the center and some don't. Follow the directions from the rental joint.

I agree with all of the above accept for tying the body down. You should tie the A-arms and the rear axle housing. Not the frame or unibody on a newer car. Reason being, the body needs to be free to float and expend the energy of the bumps in the road. If you tie the axle and a-arms with ratchet straps or binders they cannot come loose. The wheels wil be firmly sinched to the trailer deck. The car will stay exactly where you tie it. If you bind it down using the frame/body you are partially loading the suspension. What happens every time you hit a bump ??? The suspension will travel creating slack in your straps allowing the car to move on the trailer. Or for the chain or strap to come unhooked. My families business has professionally towed cars and trucks for 50+ years and thats how I was taught.
Just my $.02

Thanks everyone for all your advice, I definitely came to the right place to ask that question!

Probably the most common mistake people make is NOT ENOUGH tongue weight which can cause a very harry swaying experience when you touch the brake.

I am the one that said to tie the body down and not the axels. This may be wrong, If so. Why do all the auto mfg. on the planet, ( while Transporting ) Tie down the bodys and not the axels. Not sure if I am right or wrong? I think by tying down the axels the body and suspension will move or work.
By tying down the body like G.M.-Ford-Mopar. Nothing moves. I believe for a short haul any way you want will work. For a long haul, What is the best way??????????????
Bob:confused: