Here's the combo as it stands:

ere's the basic run down of my combo:

Mark IV 454 14015445 casting ('77 truck block, 4-bolt main)
bored to 468CID
stock GM cast crank
GM 7/16 rods, externally balanced
ARP bolts/studs ETC
Brodix Race Rites, 115cc with CNC chamber, assembled (springs to match cam, comes with competition valve job, valve bowl blend)
Lunati Solid 402A3LUN cut on a 112 LSA (276/284 at .020, 243/251 at .050, .586/.600 valve lift)
Standard stamped rocker arms
Carter 172-gph mech. pump with 1/2'' fuel line
SRP 139515 (23cc dome, should achieve 10.2:1 SCR running 93 octane)
Holley 850 CFM double-pumper
K&N air filter
Accel HEI distributor
TKO 600=2.87/1.89/1.28/1.00/.64OD
4.10 rear with posi (12-bolt)
True dual exhaust with 1 7/8'' headers and Hooker Aerochambers, 3'' piping, 2.5'' tail pipes.

The car is a daily driver car, but I'm still hoping to squeeze as much power out as possible.


The things I need to change are the rocker arms and the balancer.

I don't have the history on the balancer and it's going in to be balanced, so I want to be sure to get a good one. I don't plan to spin this more than 5500 on the street (and that would only be if I went crazy getting on an on ramp or something..), and probably that or 6000 at the track. There seems to be a huge gap from OEM-type balancers like Summit offers (like $80 I think?) compared to more higher end models like an ATI (like $300 I think I saw, or maybe $250). Do I really need one like that, or would a Summit one be fine?

Now, for rocker arms. I had stamped rockers and I was told I might have some problems, a few posts down. After talking with my dad, he wants me to get roller rockers anyway (he had from the beginning), and he is going to buy me some. Can anyone tell me a good brand and ratio would be great for this combo? The only thing is I want to be able to do is use the stock chrome valve covers with drippers...I really do want to use the valve covers BUT I am prepared to bend the drippers off if I have interference.

If anyone has anything to add, that would be really great. I appreciate any help...thanks guys.

I hate to ask the obvious, but why did you out that cam in the motor if your intent is to only spin the motor to 5500 - 6000?

I don't know, a few people told me it would be nice in my combo, as well as UDHarold, and several others thought it sounded good. I guess I would take it to 6500 at the track, really. But not on the streets (really don't know anyone who would need to RPM that high on the streets).

Get the Comp Pro Magnums. 1.7 part #1320-16.
Excellent piece & if anything will fit under stock covers, these may.

You can get them at Summit or
email me & I will get them for you ;)

On the damper, I would prefer an ATI but at about $320 if it is too much then get one of the other SFI approved ones,, anything except a fluid filled one of any brand ;)
And yes there is a difference in the quality of dampers :D

Thanks for the tips.

Just curious, what decides what ratio I would need? Lift or something?

Also I don't mind bending back the drippers and double gasketting if I have to.

Jmho, but the cam TO ME is dead-on!! (Look at the advertised duration, not the duration at .050"!!)....

Of course I like the good old CC 282S solid for a grunt motor too!!!

It's not a tall deck block is it?? I figure you just picked up a 4-bolt main P/U motor instead of a h-d tall decker is all...

pdq67

Yep, it's a standard deck 4-bolt main, not a tall deck.

Taylor, I've used the inexpensive Crane Energizer rockers. 7300 rpm redline,20Kmiles. No problems. If you'd like better, www.competitionproducts.com (http://www.competitionproducts.com) did have the higher end Cranes for $239 recently. If $$$ is no object,use steel rollers.

The Energizers fit under stock covers. I bent the drippers, used a Fel-Pro rubber gasket Hi-Tack'd to the cover,and the Fel-Pro double corks Hi-Tach'd to the head. I beleive they're 1.72 ratio.

Honestly, for a 6000 rpm motor, I'd use the GM 8" balancer from www.gmpartsdirect.com. (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com.)

If you havent checked pushrod length, buy a $17 Manley tester from competitionproducts. You'll have to have 2 stock pushrods. Its very simple to use and will ensure stock length psuhrods are adequate. The cam is a bit aggressive, check everything on the valve train to ensure a long and healthy life!

BTW, if the GM balancer is too pedestrian, check out the Aussie ones. THey look nice and arent budget killers.

I'm just a bit curious why some brands work under stock covers and some seem to not. I would think if they're 1.7 ratio then that would be that. Or, are some 'thicker' in a way than others and cause it to hit? Just wondering, thanks guys.

Hi Taylor,
Some of the rockers are physically pretty big in size & won't clear because of there shape.
And as far as I can remember the Energizers are 1.7 but I don't use them much.

This is just my opinion but in most cases when dealing with aftermarket rockers or valvetrain parts I feel the Manley length checker is about as useless as tits on a boar hog :D

So,,I do not use the little pushrod checkers sold by Manley, don't like them.
I haven't figured out what they were designed to be accurate with but it doesn't seem to be most aftermarket rockers.
I always check the pattern on the valve with an adjustable pushrod

Not all rockers are created equal & in almost every case with roller rockers where I have actually checked the geometry properly with an adjustable pushrod the Manley thingy was not even close.
Again, it will only work with certain length valves & certain rockers.
Just changing rocker ratios in the same brand or changing to a different brand of the same ratio will effect where the end of the pushrod should be.
I would save your $17 or what ever it costs & buy or borrow a set of adjustable pushrods unless you are running stock length valves with stock rockers in which case the Manley plastic widget seems to come out pretty close. ;)

Regarding the price of rockers, in the total scheme of engine building I don't consider a top of the line rocker that is less than $300 as a "money is no object" item smile.gif
If you want the Energizers, I can get those too for substantially less than the Comp Pro Magnums, all depends on what you want, it is your engine ;)

As for dampers, the Nodular Iron GM one's are a very good piece but my preference is an SFI one on any engine capable of over 6000 RPM. Actually it's my preference on any performance engine.
A stock cast one is something I would prefer not to use on a performance deal.

PDQ,
Don't take this wrong : standard disclaimer applies - JMHO.

Please look at the whole combination:

Brodix Race Rites
2.87 1st gear trans
4.10 rear
276/284 243/251 .587/.610 lift cam

First / second shift will occur at 5500 just to get the car out of the driveway. That's the same effective 1st gear ratio as a M22 with a 5.34 rear. That motor has to be spun to support the gears. Heck a 2nd gear start is the equivalent to a M22 with approx 3.55 gears.

To each his own, but to go and spend all that money on heads, trans, good solid cam and valve train to match, gears, headers and exhaust, not to mention the money that is going to have be spent yet on suspension upgrades to get the power to the ground, then skimp on a crank and balancer because you don't intend to run the motor past 5500 - 6000?? Might as well just through a warmed over rebuilt iron head 454 with a hydraulic flat tappet cam in the car.

FWIW.....69CHV has an excellent point re trans ratio and rear gear I have a similar combo and with same trans and 3.73's first is very short ( equal to M20 with 4,24's) ..you pbly would be fine with 3.55's with that size motor and 1st gear ratio especially if it's a daily driver, again my opinion only

Also saving $$ on valve train in a 6grand + BB is pbly not wise.
Not sure what Mike would say but I choose a 7"SFI degreed balancer from PowerBond reasonable price from CP... I have an internal balanced motor and trying to keep reciprocating mass as lite as possible again FWIW

Well to be honest, at first I was going to go with the Muncie Five speed, which has the M22 ratios with a .68OD. But, the release date kept being moved back (which is understandable), and I needed this project done before the summer, so I chose the TKO. Did it make that big of a difference? I had talked to a few people who had the same set-up as far as tranny and rear gears and they said first gear was fine...

Also I'm not trying to skimp as much as I am trying to not waste money on parts I probably would not need. I just don't have the knowhow yet to know if $200 roller rockers are the same or different as $320 roller rockers and if a $100 balancer is the same as a $300 balancer. I also thought that really you didn't need a heavy duty balancer unless you were drag racing in the 7000rpm range all the time, which I just simply won't be, it IS a daily driver who will only see track time in the summer. Some may think it was a hefty motor for a daily driver but rather do it all now then want to upgrade more and more things later on.

I do appreciate all the advice. Hope it doesn't seem like I'm being hard headed, just trying to learn and explain myself too. Thanks guy.

Too much cam for a daily driver.

too wide of a LSA, a smaller cam on a Tighter LSA will work better overall, My opinion.

1-7/8" headers are borderline too big as well.

I'd rather see you spend the money on an HP950 Carb

BTW, when you fire this thing up for the first time, it wont be a daily driver anymore ;)

The reason Harold (and I think Gene suggested this too) chose the LSA was because I run power everything and AC, and so the standard 110 LSA that it is ground on probably wouldn't be enough vacuum.

And when I fire it up, that's secretely what I'm hoping as well graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Taylor,
Forget whatever you were thinking about 5500 with your engine :D
As soon as you get some time on this deal 5500 is going to come so fast you will wonder why you even considered talking about it,,,
The only way you will keep it at 5500 is with a rev limiter unless you have a lot more self control than me ;)
Hell, my stock 96 truck sees about 5500 almost every time it shifts when I drive it :D
You are building a pretty cool 6500+ RPM engine & trust me it will come very fast when rowing through the gears,,,

Hey all, just curious what the part number on the HP950 is because I actually can't find it anywhere under that name (at least I don't think so). Thanks.

Mike,as you know I'm amatuer gearhead and a professional numbers guy... I did the contact pattern thing, and with the width of the rocker it was very difficult to discern the correctness of the pattern. It was close, I thought, and bought the $17 Manley tool as an aid. Stock rods appear to be .025 too long. If you say they're wrong,then my geometery muct be ok! smile.gif

Seriously, then they cannot be trusted and correct length is conditional on the rocker used?

Taylor, it seems to be the width of the rockers that can cause a problem, meaning the rocker body(pushrod end) hits the lower inside of the valve cover, not the top of the rocker or posi-lock.

107 LSA for your purpose is just wrong. Sorry, that's a fact. 950HP is a nice carb for drag racing. 850 cfm QJ best for a daily! 850 is fine, except ( like any big Holley) you wont be able to eake out much mpg. ( Can we convince your dad to bankroll a mechanical tripower setup? I'll GUARANTEE 16+mpg highway, maybe 18 with yourOD.!)IfI had stayed with a 4bbl, I would have Ebay'd a 830 annular dpandplayed with that.Seems like a good compromise between cfm required and responsiveness ( other than the aforementioned trips!). Wondered if I could squueze 12-13 mpg out of one?

Also,that cam will want to be shifted at around 6300 for best power. Be sure to phase it +4 to+6 like Harold says. 5500 rpm with your gearing will happen in less than one second. I can count a slow " one-one thousand " and bounce off a7K rev chip. Not spinning btw. And you have more 1st gear.
You better get real fast on that 1-2 shift bud! that shift will happen well before the 60' mark, so you'll be timed!

This thing might scare you the first time. Get used to it. It's only an 11 second street ride! :D

Nothing's an 11 second Street car until it makes an 11 second Pass.

Second, I wasnt planning on suggesting a 107, but rather a 110 for this application.
As this car isnt going to be a serious street/strip car, but rather a quick street car making an occasional quarter mile blast.

My power brakes work with a 242/248 dur .050" on a 108 LSA.

Ed's Power Brakes work with 254/260 dur and a 107 LSA.

I can daily drive my car, i choose not to, however i have daily driven the car without problems.

You wont want to drive it every day, as, when you're done with it it will be very nice, and if you're anything like me, you like to keep your Classic Car nice and out of the elements!

Originally posted by OUChevelleSS:
Hey all, just curious what the part number on the HP950 is because I actually can't find it anywhere under that name (at least I don't think so). Thanks. Holley list (http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSC/CarbQkRef.pdf)

Thanks for the tips. My engine builder also has all the parts on hand so I'll also be asking him what he thinks too. I appreciate all the advice and hopefully I can get it together this spring break and tell you how amazing it is!

0-80496-1 is the part# I have for the HP950. How far is it from Bixby to Joplin,Mo. isnt Bixby near Tulsa? Bring it to MoKan and I'll meet you over there so we can line em up :D

It's going to be a blast! Good luck with it!

Yep, Bixby is kind of sort of a little suburb of Tulsa. It's in the same county, so not too far. When it's ready you're in for a race (I hope!).

And so many people have told me the thing about forget about 5500ish RPM being the limit, including my engine builder at home. I guess the problem is my 350 runs out of steam at like 4k so I really don't know what it's like to be up there.

Please let us know how you like that tranny. That car sounds like fun! graemlins/beers.gif

I'm no expert for sure but Looking at the combo I thought the engine sounds well planned with an excellent parts combo, I think the cam will be perfect for what the suggested use is. But the rear gears are way too stout for the tko 600, first gear is going to be totally useless IMO. If you do the math I bet it would be similar to a Muncie wide ratio with 4.88s and the torque this engine is going to make will probably set the tires on fire. You'll be grabbing second at a car length out of the hole. JMO

One thing, I don't know how much this matters, but the tire is a 28'' tall tire I believe, maybe 29''. I've never driven a manual tranny so I don't know when you usually have to shift with these things, but calculating it at shifting at 30mph (on the street) it's only having to shift at 4,000ish RPM...so is that bad? Again I'm just curious because I don't know..thanks.

The TKO 600 I believe is available with two different first gear ratios, which one did you buy? What is the ratio of your first gear?

The TKO 600 has a first gear ratio of 2.87

The calculator I used for this was the one on Prestage.com.

You want an overall first gear ratio of about 10 for good off the line performance, less if you want to kill off some torque and let the tires bite. Your overall first gear ratio is 2.87 X 4.10= 11.7 which may be a little deep. I'm sure it'll be streetable, you'll probably be able to let the clutch out at an idle. But it may make for a very short first gear when you getting on it. Just something you might want to think about. I've been planning a TKO 600 for my 71 when I ever get it togther and from the research I did when the TKO decision was made I figured on using 3.25 rear gears to simulate what a wide ratio muncie and 4.10s had for off the line performance. Bob

Originally posted by OUChevelleSS:

And so many people have told me the thing about forget about 5500ish RPM being the limit, including my engine builder at home. I guess the problem is my 350 runs out of steam at like 4k so I really don't know what it's like to be up there. =
Trust me,,, you soon will,,,, graemlins/beers.gif

So I'm confused again, somewhat.

Looking through Summit just to get some ideas, I'm seeing different types of roller rockers. Some are full roller, others are just roller tip? Also, some are aluminum, some are stainless steel, and some are steel? Can anyone clarify a difference?

Also if I get the kind with the needle bearings in them, I saw somewhere some sort of screen that goes in the head so if I loose a rocker and its bearing it won't get into my engine and destroy everything. Do these have a specific term? It would definately be something I would get if I got a roller rocker that had them. Thanks.

4-bolt block, 7/16 bolt rods, Brodix heads, all the good stuff - why are you running a cast crank? I know they can stand up to some pretty good abuse, but it's not that expensive to step up to a good steel piece, even a good used factory crank. It would be a no brainer for me, particularly with a stick since they tend to be harder on the thrust surface and the steel crank would live thru what would kill a cast one. IMHO, you'll always have that little tic in the back of your mind when you really give 'er hell - I wonder if this crank will hold up thru this kind of abuse? Maybe that's just me - I don't like to drive 'em like I stole 'em, I'd rather drive 'em like I hate 'em. I've always felt like that if I built a performance engine that I was scared to push hard - really hard - I wasted my money. My guru's advice has always been to build it with the best pieces you can afford. I just don't think that cast crank is part of that program.

Mike can confirm or deny this, but cast cranks aren't as prone to cracking. My L88 crank was FUBAR'd with 5 cracks. Yes, I went with an old 6223 to replace, but I'm not convinced a cast crank won't hold as good.

Best roller rockers are the steel ones. If $$ is no object go with the steel ( stainless?) Crowers. Crower makes great stuff. As I said, no problems with the inexpensive Crane's yet. They were bought before I did much reserarch and relied on Crane's reputation. I'd go with the $239 Cranes from comp products ( the Crane Gold race w/o gold anodizing - WHO CARES!), unless it truly a 20K/yr street car, then steel would be better imho. The Comp Cams ones Mike mentiones are steel as well - good recommendation for a high mileage driver.

If rollers are used, DEFINTELY epoxy some screens in the oil drainbacks in each end of the head!!!( Moroso kit)

Roller tip rockers, IMHO, are useless. Long slot stamped steel are just as good.

DON'T BE CONFUSED! your basic design is spot on , even the 112lsa. Dont let unsolicited opinions of "what's best" sway you. All you need are some final parts.

Get quick on that 1-2 shift buddy! And if you're not used to it, you might want an MSD6-AL with a 6700 rpm chip in it. I run a 7K jsut to keep me from " shooting all my guns off and exploding into space!", as the 427 used to see 7400 regularly.

Prolly not so good for a durn street car! BUT FUN!!!

Unsolicited Opinions? I believe he was asking for opinions.

I've told you before gene, you have a problem with me, feel free to contact me over the phone or email, rather then making snide remarks.

Not to get in the middle of something, but I tend to agree on the crank issue (brought it up earlier). A cast crank is safe for a 6000 max motor in a 454. The 3.76" stroke is easy for 500RPM more. Having read all the posts here, it is obvious Taylor is incurring a fair amount of expense and as is usual with a big block, it always tends to grow. It is very easy when you go from small block to big block to loose sight of exactly what you are putting together. A I had said before, if all that was wanted was a decent running 5500 RPM street motor, all that was needed was a stock set of iron ovals and a flat tappet hyd cam. The top end of this motor is far from bargain budget, it would be smart to have the better crank in there.

Wait until he lets the clutch go in 1st, buries the tach and realizes he hasn't went 30 feet. If this were in my car it would see 6500 - 6800 everytime I got the urge (which is usually quite often).

Brian, nothing snide, dishonest or spiteful there. Just imho. My comments were meant to keep Taylor's eye on the ball. Now don't take offense at this, but I can't waste my time calling or emailing with a lack of purpose.

I hear ya Joe, I'd sure like to hear another professional opinion on that crank deal. The only reason my machinist was stuck on steel was the 7200+ the engine was seeing. His comment was " I've seen more steel cranks fail than cast ones. "

In context, this was no a race engine shop, so fwiw. still, I wouldn't be too concerned ( this fromthe guy that would NEVER used cast pistons for what the 427 does).

.

Keep Taylors EYE on the ball.

You're pretty sold on that 112 LSA Gene, why dont you enlighten us to what Exactly a Tighter or Looser LSA will do to the power curve of a Pump Gas (low compression) low RPM Big Block.

Please Enlighten us, Becuase all of the FAST rides that are required by the rules to have low compression are using TIGHT LSA's, and doing so very successfully.

And In MY opinion, if a tighter LSA is going to be quicker in this particular ride, you would go to the tightest possible LSA that you can put up with in a daily driver, NOT THE WIDEST!!!

I bet the cast crank will hold up just fine, I know of two local cast cranked 454 cars that cross the line at 7k all summer long, one runs high tens and was built over five years ago. With regular street duty and an occasion trip to the strip I should think it would be just fine, JMO of course.

Tight lobe seperation angles will only work well with a tuned exhaust according to one of Vizard's books. Will this car have a tuned exhaust to benifit from the extra overlap generated by a tight lsa? If the exhaust is corked up for street duty will the reversion created from backpressure create a power loss? Some small cams are made with tight lsa but with the low lift they produce the overlap triangle would also be reduced I'm sure, some of the small RV type torque cams support this. Interesting stuff, for sure.

That theory could also say that WIDE lobe seperations only work with a well tuned exhuast system in the correct application as well.

I'm not asking because i want to know, I consider myself to be pretty well informed on the effects of Lobe Seperation.

Ed Bigley taught me the effects of Lobe Seperation and Cam Dynamics, thanks Ed! As well I have a few other sources, including Darin Morgan.

Yes, it DOES come down to a tight lobe seperation needing to be correllated with the correct exhaust system, however Any engine needs the correct exhaust system to realise its potential.

Lets Look at the variables of this Particular Situation:

Taylors Engine is a 468" Motor, with an estimated 10.2:1 compression (you'll find the actual compression will vary from the guesstimate based on the actual size of the chamber)
He plans to use Power Brakes.

He plans to turn the engine No MORE then 5500rpms, which in my opinion, a realistic Street motor would be 6500rpms.

Now, the power range in focus is 3000-6000rpms to put the shift point nearly 6500rpms.

A primary tube diameter of 1-7/8", which also, i must add, this definetly is not enough information on the headers.

the 243/251 duration figures are A little much for a true daily driver, but as far as the power range goes, that will work perfect with the 3000-6000rpms power range.

My Suggestion is a 110 or as tight as a 108 LSA, since this is a daily driver and I dont know how much experience taylor has behind the wheel of something like what he's building.

Taylor,

At 6500 you should not have a problem with a cast crank.
Would I rather have a forged one,, absolutely but in a Rat especially the cast cranks are quite strong & will take a ton of abuse.

Anything can & will eventually break & in the end you need to use the best parts you can afford & even those break on occasion :(

I have seen some cast crank engines that amazed the crap out of me.
I balanced one 383 stroker that was in an alcohol modified for 3 seasons before it broke.
This is to 7000-7200 with regularity.
Not my choice but he had the parts & wanted it done,,, (Scat 9000 crank)

You want a full roller rocker not the roller tip stuff.
I personally have had more trouble with those than stock rockers.
The Crowers are top of the line as are the Hi Tech Comps.

The Comp Pro Magnums are probably just as good, same size, same design just not stainless & are less than $300, at least from me they are.
The Crane "good" rockers have an excellent reputation also as do a number of others.

The trash screens as mentioned are a good idea & sold by Moroso in a kit complete with epoxy.
You can also buy your own screen & 2part epoxy & make them.

This whole deal,,in my opinion,, is being made way to complicated ,,
just decide if you want top of the line parts or good & less expensive parts, buy them & finish your engine ;)

On the rockers, buy what you can afford. Crane gold's, Comp's Pro-magnum, Comp's Hi-tech or Crowers in that order of pricing.

If you decide on Crowers you might ask Brian if he can help you.

On the damper, the GM as long as it ain't cast iron, a good non fluid SFI of your choice, or a top of the line ATI at about $320.
Both the Pioneer & Pro Products seem reasonable in quality & are under $200.

Your money, your car, your decision graemlins/beers.gif

"tightening" the lobe seperation will retard the exhaust lobe's timing (ICL remaining the same). This effects the engine by "fooling" it into thinking its making ALOT more cylinder pressure then it is.

The second effect of this is creating more overlap, combined with a well tuned exhaust system more overlap "can" be a very good thing, and in a Low compression engine in many cases it is.
The opens up a larger window of time for the gasses leaving the exhaust system, creating a high negative pressure in the cylinder, to help bring the Intake charge into the cylinder, as well as some leaving with the spent gasses.


thanks Mike!

Taylor if you are interested in the Crowers Email me at SpeedyGoomba@yahoo.com and i'll refer you to a friend of mine.

Yes, we do understand the cam timing issue, although that was a very good explaination. I run that cam on a 110 lsa. The cam also quite prefers to be installed well advanced, this according to the man that designed it. Given those parameters, and the fact that it is a 'daily', 112 lsa is perfect for the intended application. That cam on a 110 lsa , advanced 6, will be on the edge of detonation with 93 pump and a 10.2:1 static. 112 gives a bit of room for error in the fuel, which, imho, is a strong consideration for a daily versus an occasional use car.

Fwiw, if I had a bit less than 10.5:1, I would have preferred a 108. The cam is somewhat lumpy on a 110, and it should produce 13" Hg at 900 rpm in neutral in a 454. I'd guess that Taylor will show near 14-15" at idle.

As it is now, I might have to dial the cam back to +4 to keep it pump gas friendly. If all of a sudden Taylor can only get 91 octane, he's screwed himself on the tighter is better deal, potentially. Why run that risk???

Brian, I hope I have at least helped you open your mind a bit to a true street app. Your car is not a true street car, not by virtue of design, mind you, but by virtue of use. That is where the "street" compromises occur. Once you drive the car ALOT, like 7K a year or more. Most of these classics are indeed very occasional use as yours. Given that, working power brakes in a car who's only "street" use is driving around the pits, as the bbc car you mention, is not a resonable basis for any recommendation. Not a street car pure and simple.

The cam designer recommended 112 given the useage and goals ( not lowest ET) , and he was spot on. QED.

Take the blinders off, life goes on around us is so many different ways - not one way. And that not meant to be snide or disrespectful, just a helpful suggestion. You might bury your resentment toward me for a second and pay some mind to it. It is an absolute truth. GUARANTEED to be of use to you now and forever. Of these things I am quite certain. It will certainly help you in your future career as an architect as you interpret your client's goals and see their vision before you create it.

Good day all.

Not a street car???? LOL

I drove my car to island dragway, etown and Atco enough over the summer to put nearly 3000 miles on it!!!!

The drive to Island is 2 hours!

No, not your car mind you. And its not the design, its the useage. Taylor will do more than 3K for sure. I'm sure your well engineered ride has fine street manners. Some say mine does. You get tired of the rumpity-rump after about 25K , it seems. smile.gif

Maybe I'm showing my age!

I "bear no steel" here Brian. Good day.

Dont Fool yourself into thinking your doing me some kind of favor.
I dont need your help now, nore will i ever need your help.
You didnt even respond to this post again until I posted the cam dynamics!!!

Bury My resentment? HA! thats Good, you, the guy who has nothing but snide remarks to make, wants ME to bury the resentment!

OK then, here's a quarter... good day........

Not its design? Who are you kidding? I designed it ENTIRELY around being capable of driving on the street!!!

I've driven it to and from work and school many times. I dont now because i dont want Salt all over my car!

If he puts 3000 miles on his ride in 1/2 a year i will be very surprised.

tongue.gif

Well at least one thing's for sure. Taylor, by now it is evident that you do not have a 5500 RPM street motor. Good luck with you build. Let us know when it finally gets fired up.

You did a fine job of it Brian.

tongue.gif

hey, your tongue might get cut off someday with someone with method and motive, be careful!!! Don't worry, not me, I can't wear a Green Beret any more. Now I'm a peacenik. Just that most of my "goomba" buddies here tend to make wiseguys wimper and hate loudmouths. Same in NJ??? friendly advice, sorry to irk you so much with UNSOLICITED advice! smile.gif

have fun at the track this year.

I have that saved on my PC, and Also you have mail.

I go with Brian to all the bracket racing events. I have a 9 second 23 degree head small block in a 72 Nova. I know all the goombas down at E-town, and am one of them. Me and the rest of the Goombas at E-Town stop for sausage and peppers, and my old lady cooks some of the best gravy in Jersey youre welcome to stop by next time youre at E-Town.

Now yuse guys is talkin my kinda language. Anytime you want to serve up some sausage and peppers, make sure to let me know - I'll bring the wine!!!!

PS- Notice he said "gravy". For all you meatheads out there, that means the sauce is started with meat. By the way, no matter what they tell you, you can't buy "real" gravy in a jar. Hey what can I say, I'm a paison - no??

Just remeber to ask....."How YOU doin'!"

BTW, Big says, if you want to get to this Jersey Goomba, he's standing in the way!

HOW DO I POST A FOR SALE AD

You guys do remember that these are JUST CARS right?

..hey,you and me..we gunna go for a canoli ride

:D ;)

Which brings up one of my favorite movie lines and hopefully the end to this way off topic.

"leave the gun, take the canolies" !

Pauli the hit man was the best

"i tried to get out.....but dey pulled me back in"

I'm going to start a thread in Bench Racing along these same lines with a true story that you guys are going to love.

Hey, ya know wat...

My "goomba" buddies, and "goomba ethics" weren't learned/met on the streets of NY or NJ, but in a nice Catholic parochial school 1966-1974.

Real Goomba stuff man. Integrity, honor, keeping your yap shut unless necessary ( ok, I' dont do that well admittedly!)

Brian, smile man, I was just sparrin' with you. Even being a peacenik, why in heavens whould I ever even think of harming such a charming and intelligent young man!

Ok, well let's leave it at intelligent!
smile.gif

BTW, I do agree 110 would ET beter, that's a given, I think...

Let me ask you this, and I truly mean this as a pure, no bs question.....

lets take a car like Chris's used to be T400, shallow stall, way shallow gear.. set compression anywhere , give it a modest exhaust, not optimal, even manifolds ( ina pure stock class). Stick a med rise dual and QJ on top, give it 480+ ci.

Given the inefficiency of the pump, would a tight or wide lsa prove best here GIVEN that the owner would prefer a 'near stock' idle characteristic.

The only certain thing I know, is that for that 2500-5200 rpm app, MAYBE a single pattern cam is best. It at least cuts the exhuast lope down ( lets keep it at small tube headers not manifolds for this question ).

What of LSA. Again owner wants to pull off a stock 325 hp 396, but, course, wouldnt be boring out a '54 block .100 and stroking it, if he didnt want some performance.

WITHOUT Please, busting our respective collunes , really, what would you do if that person walked into the shop you work p/t at? What would you think on cam timing and separation?

Single, dual? Oh, hydraulic is required by the customer ( bummer, I know). And no noisy XE crap. He's adamant! Shhhh. Quiet.

If you're too PO'd at me to answer objectively, let it go, nevermind. I DO NOT want to bust collunes on this.

Off to Bench for Joe's story.....

All this gravy talk has made me HUNGRY!!

Hey, I walkin' over here! You got a problem with dat? Fugheadaboudit!