I'm getting ready to pull the body. I plan to lift on end at a time with a shop crane and slip a 4 x 4 between the body and frame, and then connect the ends on each side with a 4 x 4 crossmember to make a square frame for the body to rest on, then lift the wooden frame with the body on it high enough to get teh chassis out. In a perfect world, I'd have a rotisserie or a body cart like Eastwood's carries to put the body on. This isn't a perfect world. I've seen people use the plastic sawhorses (4 of them) but are they strong enough? I plan to do some work under the body so safety is the first concern. IF I need to spring for a body cart I will, but if there is a safe way to do it without that, that's the way to go.

How much does a convertible body weigh?

Andy when I did my 62 Impala last year I used 4x4's and concrete blocks. With the doors and trunk lid off 4 people can lift and place and slide chassis out pretty easily. Like you I did not want to find out how sturdy saw horses were. The blocks may not get you as high as the saw horses but you will have flat surface on flat surface.

I built extra heavy duty saw horses since I will be working under mine. 4 guys easily lifted the body off my '64 vert, but then a lot of the weight is gone due to rust issues!

Ttt

Yep, 4x4's and cement blocks. Can get the shell 2-3 feet off the ground and still be very stable - and its cheap.

Concrete blocks here also. I think the concrete blocks cost me around 80 cents each. I double stacked them and the car was very stable.

However, not mobile at all. I wonder if you can buy a used rotisserie, use it, then sell it.

I built extra heavy duty saw horses since I will be working under mine. 4 guys easily lifted the body off my '64 vert, but then a lot of the weight is gone due to rust issues!

If you put some threaded rod between the legs they will take a lot of weight, I made four tall ones, two were borrowed six months ago:)



http://www.1969supersport.com/ojig30.jpg

Andy, I used an engine crane at the rear bumper, and a floor jack at the pinch welds under the rockers. The jack face was cushioned. Nothing got bent, dinged, or damaged in any way. I hoisted the back up enough to slip a 4x4 between the body and the frame, then teetered the front up enough to get a 4x4 between the body and the frame. From there I just jacked the body up from the 4x4's and supported them with 6 ton jack stands. I would say the entire process to where I could roll the chasis out from under the body took about one hour tops.

I used 2 engine hoists, cinder blocks stacked 4 high and 4x4 posts. PICS are in my photo album. It was very easy, very secure and very safe in my opinion. Unhook the front engine hoist and roll the chasis out. Reattach front engine hoist before working underneath the car. I kept the rear engine hoist attached at all times because I was a little nervous about the weight of the trunk area causing the body to tilt backwards, but nothing ever moved an inch!! good luck.

OK Andy we have told you how to do it. Promise us dinner at the Rendevous and a stroll down Beale and we be there to make it happen!

:hurray:

I was in a high roofed bldg and used 55 gallon drums and 2x6's. Made it real easy to get to the floors.

OK Andy we have told you how to do it. Promise us dinner at the Rendevous and a stroll down Beale and we be there to make it happen!

:hurray:

that's a very tempting offer......

I'm sure someone has a rotisserie near you, and they would be GLAD to lend it

The roof height is not a problem for Andy:D

I might be in Arkansas in March, I'll be glad to help you lift it if your ready by then:beers: I'm afraid to redo my car cause it may never see the road again:D

spring for a 2 post lift.your chevelle is woth it and you will use it for years to come.got mine for free with some searching and only had to have 2 hoses made($200).worth every penny!!!!
eric:beers:

i have done this three times by myself , works for me , im very limited in money to spend, first i used two 4 by 4s 8 foot long boards placed up in the rafters of my barn over the car spreading the load of car over three joust, now take one 6 foot chain wrap it around the 4 by 4 and another 6 foot chain bolt it to the car using the bumbers bolts and there lifting location with a hand winch in the middle, and another set up for the front .attach to the inner fender mount on the firewall winch up the front six inches then the rear, six inches at a time you will need to go up three feet aleast to roll the frame out on its wheels, once you roll the frame out go high enough to use heavy duty saw horses, i just built my own, support body with both the horses and the chains from the roof, that way your safer if the horse fail the chains will hold, and vice verse, with the bulk of the weight on the saw horses, you wont pull the roof down on top of you, this way you can work under with some degree of safety, i have this set up working right now when i have time i just winch the body up ,, clean then lower it when im to busy to work on it, next time it goes up i will finish my cleaning , because i have no rust (hehe) . under coat, install my new fuel lines and brake lines. and body bushing then she can go down and stay down, the rest of the car can be built with the body on the frame.. like i said ive done this three times,, just a hint to make it easy to adjust body to frame, mark the wheels location, just paint the concrete around the base of the tires, before you lift. when it time to bolt it down you have a reference spot line it all back up, dont set the body all the way down on the bushing start all your body bolts first, then set it down just a touch, double check your measurements, between frame and rockers, if you have adjust alittle its easier , then center up your bushing with there washers before you set all the weight down, hope you understand this , gl