I'm swapping my front brakes over to disc, via the budget NAPA method, for my 71 Elcam. I've been searching the threads but can't find which MC I need if I want to tossout my booster and go with manual disc to drum brakes?

You will need a pushrod for a manual brake car (drum or disk will be fine), then just get a mastercylinder for a 71 elcamino and you should be good to go.

I am doing the same thing to my Olds. I bought a Mopar style m/c from Napa. Part #39476. My cost was $40.90.

It looks like this:

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-MasterCylinders/006-TIRMC/pic.jpg

I am doing the same thing to my Olds. I bought a Mopar style m/c from Napa. Part #39476. My cost was $40.90.

It looks like this:

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-MasterCylinders/006-TIRMC/pic.jpg

Thanks! What size is the bore on that one?

Jeff

That is a photo that I took from Wilwood's site. It's part number is 260-4894 and the bore size is 1 1/16". I used the photo as a generic picture. I should have stated that. Sorry.

The m/c I bought at Napa has a 24mm bore which converts to ??? in inches.

I am running the 68 MANUAL brakes disk/drum camaro MC. I got it from schucks. It has a 1 1/8" bore size. I tried a mid 70's chevelle mc for manual disk/drum like someone people told me to use but it did not flow enough fluid. The camaro mc is nice and firm and has the proper deep hole for the manual brake pushrod. Here is the part number from kragens.

68 Camaro Manual MC 1 1/8" Bore A1C101639 Kragens

I have stock disk brakes up front and drums in back. You can keep your old prop valve. As said you need a manual brake pushrod. Here is a pic!

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g34/Brettd85/DSCN0816.jpg

That is a photo that I took from Wilwood's site. It's part number is 260-4894 and the bore size is 1 1/16". I used the photo as a generic picture. I should have stated that. Sorry.

The m/c I bought at Napa has a 24mm bore which converts to ??? in inches.

24mm= .95 inches. For my case I dont think that would flow enough fluid. The mid 70's laguna/chevelle one I tried had a 15/16" bore size and did not flow enough. 15/16=.94"

In my opinion, dont waste money on the wilwood, I think with core the mc was $15. Of course with these things being so cheap, you can kinda try a few until you get it right. Perhaps my system is different somehow. :confused:

In most applications for manual disk you will want to go with a 1" bore with a deep hole for the pushrod. I switched the power setup out of my '67 elco and used a '69 vette manual disc master that is a 1" bore that works great. I also junked the stock combo valve and just used a adjustable proportioning valve to dial in the rear brakes. With a 1" bore (most of the time) it will give you better pedal feel than a larger bore that may make the pedal hard as a rock with no feeling.

Also when you get the push rod don't forget to use the top hole in the pedal or else the rod will bind up in the hole in the piston.

With a 1" bore (most of the time) it will give you better pedal feel than a larger bore that may make the pedal hard as a rock with no feeling.

You may have a point. My pedal is kinda hard and I have thought about searching for a MC in between the 15/16"s which was too soft and the 1 1/8" which is a tiny bit too hard. So you are saying the 69 camaro MC has a 1/8" smaller bore size than the 68?

Thank you; that is a lot of great information :)

Looked at Master Power brakes yet? This is the kit I installed on my 1970 chevelle to switch it from Power boosted disc front / drum rear brakes to manual disc front / drum rear. Part # MC1702K. Come s with master cylinder and adjustable length brake push rod with clevis. Cost is 99.95 plus shipping . I think my total cost was 113 dollars or so. http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=530
Try this link. Perhaps this is just what you are looking for.

Looked at Master Power brakes yet? This is the kit I installed on my 1970 chevelle to switch it from Power boosted disc front / drum rear brakes to manual disc front / drum rear. Part # MC1702K. Come s with master cylinder and adjustable length brake push rod with clevis. Cost is 99.95 plus shipping . I think my total cost was 113 dollars or so. http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=530
Try this link. Perhaps this is just what you are looking for.

I suppose that would work, but I would rather save $70+, which is why I went my route of purchasing over the counter. Plus I could just run down to the local shop and pick it up without paying for shipping.

the mid 70's Chevelle manual master works great if you run PBR 2 piston calipers in the front.
that's what i used on the Nova with my C4 12" front brakes. with the stock rear drums, it stopped better than any car i've ever owned, and my 50 year old mom didn't think the pedal was too hard to push. but i did have to plumb in a Wilwood adjustable prop valve in the rear brake line so i could stop without the rears locking up all the time.
i don't know why it wouldn't also work well with the bigger single piston Chevelle calipers- the mid 70's A bodies used a pretty big bore front caliper, and the GM engineers chose that bore for a car that anyone from a 16 year old kid to a 90 year old grandma might potentially drive. but if it doesn't work, it doesn't work- regardless of what it "should" do.

So you are saying the 69 camaro MC has a 1/8" smaller bore size than the 68?

I switched the power setup out of my '67 elco and used a '69 vette manual disc master that is a 1" bore that works great.

Nah, he's saying a manual master cyl for a '69 Vette is a 1" bore with the deep pushrod hole. You can make your own pushrod if you want by buying a properly sized Grade 8 bolt to fit your "power" clevis and cutting off the head of the bolt. You'll also want to grind/round off the stump that's left after you cut off the head.

So for a 1" bore M/C:
68-76 Corvette with manual brakes
CARDONE 101371
RAYBESTOS MC36367
DORMAN M36367
AC DELCO 18M27 (18030269)

regarding the '69 vette MC, napa sells the power brakes version with a 1" bore, and the manual version with 1 1/8" bore. Whats the difference between a manual and power MC other than the bore size? My guess is that I pound the power MC but run it as a manual? I hate to guess about brakes.

Here's a link to Advance Auto Parts. They have several available, including a couple mentioned by TMessick. The Bendix does state a 1" bore.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=230&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Master%20Cylinder

Rich

Bad link for me.

The 'vette used 1 1/8 for power and 1" for manual for sure. The 1 1/8 delivered more fluid with a firmer pedal suited to the power application. The 1" uses more pedal travel to deliver the fluid, but also allows for easier pushing. (larger bore=more fluid, more effort, firmer pedal... smaller bore =less fluid/less effort, more pedal travel).

The 15/16" (~24mm) is suited to smaller bore calipers such as some wilwoods, C5s, etc...
It may not deliver enough fluid for a stock-style Chevelle of your vintage, though the 77 used a 15/16" bore with basically the same brakes... maybe they had a lower pedal ratio.

I would run the 1", and I am on my Fbody, though stock it came with a 1 1/8 manual disc/drum. The manual 68-72 'vette master offers the deep pushrod hole you will need for the aftermarket or stock Chevrolet manual pushrod (in the upper hole as mentioned).

I haven't tried a 15/16 on my Fbody yet. As good as my pedal feels with the 1" bore, I might try one just to see... but I like the "fatbody" style master casting... not available in that size.

regarding the '69 vette MC, napa sells the power brakes version with a 1" bore, and the manual version with 1 1/8" bore. Whats the difference between a manual and power MC other than the bore size? My guess is that I pound the power MC but run it as a manual? I hate to guess about brakes.

I think you've got the bore sizes reversed -- power is 1.125", manual is 1.000" . This is done for the reasons chevry states and to the best of my knowledge, there are no other differences between these power and manual masters.

One thing to note is that a few folks running "stock" style front calipers have stated that the 1" bore master didn't move enough fluid volume for manual brakes on their chevelles and reported "better" brakes after going from a 1" to a 1.125" master cylinder. Others have been completely happy with the 1" setup. I'm not sure what the pedal ratio is on a '71 elky, but I think the 1" is probably a better match. If you don't like it, you can swap out to the 1.125" master for like $25

Is there any sort of bracket that I would need when switching from power to manual brakes for the MC to bolt to the firewall. Or does the MC bolt directly to the firewall? Also has anyone tried manual brakes with the s-10 or g-body front brakes with the 10" (or is it 10.5") rotor. How did it work out and did it stop pretty good? My car won't see much, if any streets, just a drag car.

Thanks for the help,

Travis

Is there any sort of bracket that I would need when switching from power to manual brakes for the MC to bolt to the firewall. Or does the MC bolt directly to the firewall? Also has anyone tried manual brakes with the s-10 or g-body front brakes with the 10" (or is it 10.5") rotor. How did it work out and did it stop pretty good? My car won't see much, if any streets, just a drag car.

Thanks for the help,

Travis

No bracket, just bolts right to the firewall. I would stick with 11" brakes. I know the S-10 brakes will stop the car, but we are talking about brakes here. If you are purely doing drag, you would be fine.

I agree with sticking with the 11" brakes. In the back of my mind though is that GM put those small discs on the SS Monte's of the 80's and the fully loaded cars I believe weighed around 3400 pounds. I still have to get my chevelle weighed, but hopefully it will be just below 3000 with me in it.

I want to put discs on my chevelle within the next few months, so if I can find a good deal on stock 11" discs for it then I will get with them. If not though, I have a rusted s10 that is going to be going to the scrap yard, ill pull the brakes off of that.

Thank you for the correct information; NAPA has their parts mismarked....

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=3&SubCatId=3

I'll be using the grade-eight bolt technique as the new pushrod. Is the length of the new pushrod determined by fitment of the linkage once the new MC is mounted and brake peddle at proper height?

Thank you for the correct information; NAPA has their parts mismarked....

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=3&SubCatId=3

I'll be using the grade-eight bolt technique as the new pushrod. Is the length of the new pushrod determined by fitment of the linkage once the new MC is mounted and brake peddle at proper height?

Yes, You want to use the upper hole in the brake pedal I believe, then adjust the linkage while the brake is up against the stop and have just 1/8" or so of freeplay.